My First Real Tractor!

[Kustrud]

First off, sorry for all my rambling! I'm OCD about my stuff and take great care of everything I own! Therefore I want to get this thing figured out and once I start something I cannot get off it until I figure it out!

I'm going to do just that. I again, let it cool down and cranked it with radiator cap off and ran it for four minutes. Not a single bubble! So I'm gonna just add the pump.

For the uphill/downhill thing, when it's facing a decent angle downhill there is no pump to fight gravity and I think it just really "slows down" the syphon technique. Water still gets hot and comes out the top connection no water what. But it then has to fight gravity to push it uphill (motor facing down) back into the block out the bottom hose. This is the only thing I can think of. I double tested this, and both times when facing the tractor uphill (water out bottom hose then falls downhill into block) it never once got above 175-180. Very interesting.

 

[clemsonfor]

Don't worry about the posts. I have done the same thing...haha. Do you want to be linked to my post on replacing the rear seal? I rambled so much in that post it made it a long read, when my intention was to create a post on how to replace it for those who were interested. Each job on the tractor I do like that I take pics and try to write up a post about it.

I maintain all my stuff too. It may be older but it's all maintained. Get oil and fluid changes when needed even based on times in some cases and not miles or hours.

 

[California]

A couple of thoughts -

I read somewhere that Model T's had thermosyphon cooling and had to be backed up hills sometimes in extreme weather to resist overheating.

Most important: If you have any suspicion of a bad head gasket it is critical to spin it with compression released, to blow water out of the cylinders, before attempting starting. Water is incompressible and can crack the piston rings, or worse.

And that thread I linked had a post from a dealer specifying at what temperature an OEM YM1700 warning light will come on. It is surprisingly high, maybe 240 degrees? It's worth re-reading that thread to get the facts. And of course a radiator cap in good condition is essential to run that hot without boiling.

I think any bubbles visible in the radiator (with no water pump) are suspect. If you don't smell exhaust there, then possibly a spot in the head is clogged and is boiling at that one spot.

There are diesel coolant additives that improve heat transfer and reduce cavitation. I don't know more than that, but the topic is worth investigating.

 

[Kustrud]

Thanks Cali! And yes, I have double and triple checked, ZERO bubbles in radiator with cap off. Absolutely none. I'll post back when my water pump gets here. I'm not gonna run it anymore and just go ahead and take it apart. I'm too ****/OCD for thermosyphin haha!

 

[Kustrud]

And also the radiator and cap are both brand new.

 

[4get gto]

I'm wondering if that "water wetter" or what ever it's call would work good on something without a water pump? Suppose to let it run cooler.

 

[4get gto]

Looked into it a little. Made by Red Line and is called Water Wetter. Even make a different formula diesel's.

 

[clemsonfor]

Yea watter wetter works. It's for racing and high hp engines that are extreme. Would work here too. Since cali posted that, I forgot the temp the light cut on but knew it was higher than you would think. I know your useing a gauge. But is your light coming on or did you disconnect it as well when you put gauge in or did you t it with new sender? If light still intact have you checked the bulb?

 

[California]

Ok I followed my own advice and went back and reviewed that old thread on overheating, that so many dealers participated in:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/105515-overheating-information.html#post1198456

A new YM1700 owner put a temperature gauge on his 30 year old YM1700 first thing after he bought it. Then he posted with concern about what the gauge revealed!

Here's the key quote from a very experienced dealer:

The OEM temp sending unit on your YM1700 is set to turn on the temp light @ 248 degrees + or - 5.4 degrees and turn it back off when it cools down to 233 degrees + or - 5.4 degrees.

Danny

So - so long as you don't reach 245 degrees on your new gauge you are running within Yanmar's specs for a YM1700.

Relax.

 

[clemsonfor]

Yea I read an old post that listed 240f as the temp it turns the light on at