Grading Mower Blade Configuration

[DaleW]

I know I have seen it somewhere but like many things it escapes me for now where it was. I have a 72 inch MMM on my 2710 and have taken the blades off for sharpening and deck cleanout and remember reading somewhere about the placement of the blades when re-assembling. I have the work shop manual for the mower deck and have read between the pages but cannot seem to find the correct configuration.
Anyone help me out with an answer??

 

[chim]

Unless they are different lengths (had a riding mower like that once) I don't understand what info you are looking for. Since most decks connect multiple blades via belts rather than gears or chains, they will be at various relationships with each other as you mow along............chim

 

[Slamfire]

I guess you could put them on upside down, in which case they'd blow the grass flat instead of suckin' it up to get cut off.

 

[buppy69]

The bent up part of the blade goes up.

Eugene

 

[Gomez]

I know the diagram he's referring to. I always thought it was a little weird to worry about the rotary positioning of each blade, but the manual calls for it. There's no chance of interference, so I figured it had something to do with cut quality/air flow/ grass flow, etc. Maybe with the double belt, the blades don't slip as much, and the orientation is maintained.

 

[Hoosier_Daddy]

The 60" manual says do this periodically: \ / / ............

You will have to see the manual to get it exact but this is close. Tom

 

[DaleW]

Hoosier-Daddy was right on with the answer now I just need to know where the diagram is located in the manual for the 72 MMM.
Thanks to all with the more creative answers.....I know it's just like sod....green side up

Thanks
Dale

 

[Bayrat]

Dale,

That diagram had me wondering for awile as well. If you read it carefully it says to re-position the blades as indicated to get the most wear from them. I was assuming they meant the position of the blade at first, but if you read it and inspect the diagram closely, they are showing you how to rotate the blade from one spindle to the next like you do your car tires. This is due to one blade being used more than the next, depending on your habits and mowing conditions. At least I believe that is the diagram you refer to in your post. I have just changed my blades and can tell you that it is not difficult to turn them with the belt tight and PTO in gear, so them staying in a pre-set sequence is not possible in the case of the 72" belly deck.

 

[DaleW]

Bayrat,
You bring up an interesting point. I found the diagram in the operators manual not in the workshop manual where I originally thought I had seen it.
The way I interpreted it was to position the blades in a certain configuration so as to feed the cut grass from the left blade to the middle blade to the right blade and then out the chute. This way the grass would not overload inside the deck and would be fed to each successive blade and then out.
I realize that the blades can slip on the belt on a 72 but felt that this was a frame of reference to at least start with them in the right position to feed the cut grass.
I have noticed that after re-positioning the blades as shown I have a lot more grass coming out the chute instead of clumping up under the deck and the mower doesn't seem to lug down in taller grass as it did before I re-configured the blades.
I'll see how close the configuration is when I take the mower off again for cleaning.
Thanks to all for the help

Dale

 

[canucklehead]

I have a 3 blade, 60" mid mount cutting deck. If the blade closest to the chute is at 12/6 o'clock, the middle blade is at 2/8, and the third blade is at 10/4. Here is a pic. My old LT155 had a 42" deck with 2 blades and they were on a timing belt to be positioned perpendicular to one another, so I assumed these must have a proper positioning sequence. Does anyone know for sure?

 

[TrippleT]

When you replace the blades after a sharpening you are supposed to place them at angles such as follows: end blades horizontal middle blade vertical. Or the middle blade horizontal and the end blades vertical. I do this but when I remove them for sharpening or replacement the seem to have the configuration that yours has in the picture.

 

[chim]

See the answer I posted earlier in this thread (back in 2002 - holy thread revival, Batman). The only decks I'm dfamiliar with are belt driven. Unless your deck has gears or chains connecting the blades, they'll change their relationship as it runs.

 

[Mark Page]

I have never worried about it with my 7ft Woods mower. Actually I've never even thought about it. The middle blade is positioned far enough forward that it would be impossible for it to strike the other 2.

 

[canucklehead]

haha, chim.... I did a search to try and minimize re-posting same questions.

I asked JD parts guy yesterday aswell, and he said it doesn't matter at all. as it sits now, they are | / / I put in new blades to see if i could finally get a nice finishing cut. It's been like a brush cutter for the finish.

anyone ever try hi-lift blade? I have a grass catcher set up with a 5HP Honda engine to help suck it up, but the chute/elbow plugs up all the time. Would hi-lift help this?

 

[Mark Page]

I've only ever used high lift blades. They do a much better job, especially if you like to stripe your lawn.

 

[EagleTDL]

I've only ever used high lift blades. They do a much better job, especially if you like to stripe your lawn.

That's interesting... I always thought that high-lift blades were to used in conjunction with a mulch kit?? Those blades toss the cut grass higher into the deck to allow more cutting opportunities, right??