moving the key switch

[washita]

has anyone contemplated moving the key switch and hour meter into the rops it would at least protect these two components from the elements (dust, rain) had to clean the dust out of mine this weekend in the middle of a project as usual with inclement weather in sight

 

[woodlandfarms]

has anyone contemplated moving the key switch and hour meter into the rops it would at least protect these two components from the elements (dust, rain) had to clean the dust out of mine this weekend in the middle of a project as usual with inclement weather in sight

No, for 2 reasons.

1st any mod on the ROPS is defeating the safety design, so cutting a couple of holes to accomodate seems like a bad idea to me (then again, the chances of me having a roll over are pretty much none but I have dropped a lot on the tractor).

Second is the running of wires to accomodate. PT wiring is a mess as it is, no reason to add to the confusion.

Just my 2c tho.

 

[MuncyBob]

I recently had to take the switch out and clean it to get my key in.....while I don't want to move it I was wondering if there is a replacable part like a toggle switch with a flip cover?

 

[washita]

my atv key has a plastic shroud around it, has anyone seen a replacement key switch with a shroud on the key, that would work on the pt? that might prove to be a better and cost effective solution than moving components

 

[J_J]

Marine switches and products are usually water proof. I did away with the key switch, and installed a lighted on/off switch, and a momentary start switch.

Should be ale to find something on this site.

http://www.iboats.com/Marine-Switch...4230957--session_id.066801898--view_id.216629

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d267.html

 

[ponytug]

Check out the marine switches; you can get ones that are sealed against sea water waves. (e.g. Sealed ignition switch with IP67 rating)

My starting had been a little flakey for awhile recently, and then it wouldn't start. After some poking around, I traced it to a fractured metal connector on a wire to the starter solenoid. All better now. I had been thinking of getting a new switch.

I'm with Carl, I would not want to move either the wiring, or drill into the ROPS.

All the best,

Peter

 

[MossRoad]

You could run a conduit up the ROPS pole to protect the wiring and not change the integrity of the ROPS structure. I am still contemplating this for mine.

Covering the key switch is kind of sketchy. It is your emergency shut off, no?

 

[BobRip]

Those are some pretty large wires especially for the starter. Keep you wire sizes big if you move it. I like the idea of a water proof switch.

 

[Andrewnewy]

Don't know what's it's like over your way but a mod like that will probably void your insurance, it would over here, I would look at the marine switch option, generally these are just sealed from the weather better so you can still operate the key normally it would just be harder for the dirt to get in. Also you want to keep the distance between the battery and the key as sort as possible, all your switched power runs through there so if you do move it make sure you beef up the cables, not only from where the old switch was but right back to the start of each run

 

[woodlandfarms]

So, let me be a fly in the ointment on the water proof (marine) grade switches. These are also used in Motorcycles.

I wonder if these are not such a great idea. While water is an issue, I believe that PT switch is marine grade (although it looks a bit bottom of the barrel, although my buddy who has a very nice case tractor has the same identical key). What I am driving at is that the issue with the key is not water but dirt. The more complex the tumbler, the more likely a jam. I would suggest that keeping with a simple switch, or going to what JJ did (more or less bypassing a key system altogether) would be the best solution. Marine grade is for water, not for dirt.

Carl

 

[Andrewnewy]

Yea well if you don't need the security of a key, the a starter button and on switch is an easy way to go. By the way most waterproof switch's are dust proof aswell probably something with a minimum rating of IP67

 

[Gravy]

The PT ignition switch is a generic lawnmower item. It probably cost about $2.98 I'm astounded that mine has lasted this long. When it quits, I will replace it with a DPST toggle and a pushbutton as JJ suggests.

Relocating to the ROPS is fine as long as it doesn't involve making big holes. The ROPS tubing on the 425 is just schedule 40 water pipe, not some kind of fancy chromoly unobtanium tubing. You can see by looking at it that the pipe is plenty big and strong enough to handle a simple rollover of a 1300lb machine. If you flip it off a 300 ft cliff at 80mph, you're on your own. There's plenty of margin to accommodate small screw holes for a switch bracket. You can avoid any structural concern by mounting the switch bracket to the canopy instead of the tubing.

I won't relocate mine to the ROPS. I'll just drill another hole in the control panel and use good switches.

 

[washita]

I like J_J idea of two switches but a better switch will be my best route for safety and security reasons (12 year old nephew) thanks for the ideas and input