Moldboard Plowing newbie question

/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #1  

dberg

New member
Joined
Apr 8, 2005
Messages
15
Location
West Central Indiana
Tractor
Ford 4000
I finally got a plow bought, hopefully will use this weekend if it stops raining soon. I did alot of chisel plowing for farmers in high school but never any moldboard plowing, could somebody please tell me the most effective and time saving way or ways to plow with a moldboard plow. Like how to start and finish a field.
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #2  
I normally start on the outer edges of the field and run in a direction so the plow throws the first hill to the outside edge of the field. Run that edge and then plow back up the opposite edge of the field throwing the hill to the outside edge again. Once you have plowed one row up each edge of the field the next row I run with the tractor tire in the furrow I just made, always plowing so the plow throws the hill to the outside edge of the field and just keep plowing down one edge and up the next working your way toward the middle one plowed row at a time
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #3  
Damadman,
Would you follow your described method if you were plowing a large field? Looks like a lot of riding without the plow in the ground. Maybe I misunderstood.

Tk
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #4  
your right thistlekop....a large field would make no sense and wasting a lot of time of unproductivity. Depending on the acres, or dementions of the field, I would start at the 1/3 area of the field. Drive a straight line if able....by looking at a stationary point at the far end of that field, and keeping that stationary point between your legs and NOT THE CENTER OF THE TRACTOR. Throw the first two passes together and keep on going around, when you reach the fence line, which you should, then go and finish the other side of the field.....hope this makes sense. again this is only my thoughts of my past experience in large fields.
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #5  
I am just curious though, why would you want to plow wet ground, do ya like soil lumbs...lol, or is it new ground? A sub-soilier works very good to break up the hard-pan as to letting the ground drain better. just more babbling from me is all....
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #6  
That may work if it is a small field. On larger areas you may want to break them down into small fields. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Egon
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #7  
Dberg,

This may help, it is the instructions from my 10" moldboard that I bought a couple of years ago. Hopefully you will be able to see as the scan was very large and I had to use Pixresizer to reduce to post. If you cannot read, send me a PM and I can email them to you.
 

Attachments

  • 627684-scan0001  (415 x 600).jpg
    627684-scan0001 (415 x 600).jpg
    92 KB · Views: 858
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #8  
Heres another page with additional tips. Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

  • 627687-Scan0001 (1624 x 2308) (422 x 600).jpg
    627687-Scan0001 (1624 x 2308) (422 x 600).jpg
    80.3 KB · Views: 666
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #9  
Thanks for the attachment of your plow manual--it was very helpful! What brand/type plow did you buy?
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #10  
It's a Brinly-Hardy plow that I picked up clearanced at Lowes about 2 years ago for $90. I had been watching it for about 2 years when they finally clearanced it. I had missed an opportunity a few years before at a K-mart that had a few stuffed away in a corner and I watched them keep getting reduced down to $75 but thought I could wait until $50 but then they were gone. At that time I didn't really realize how much they cost so I kicked myself until I finally got this one from Lowes.

Glad they help.
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #11  
Here's a couple of things I learned while working for my neighbor,plowing, many years ago. When you make the first pass down the center and then return throwing the furrow together, it is called a back furrow. When you start on the outside and work in, the valley created by the last passes is called a dead furrow. Each year when you plow alternate your dead furrows and back furrows. In other words, where you created a dead forrow, next year start there with a back furrow. This is to keep your field from getting hills and valleys over the years. Another trick he did was, when the field was all plowed he would go back to each dead furrow and make back furrow to throw the soil back into the valley. After the field was disked and worked up his fields always remained flat. In a garden sized plot it is even more important. If you plow the same way every year you will wind up with a hill or a valley in the center of the garden. Probably no one cares about this stuff anymore, but those old timers knew.
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Medic,

I don't want to plow wet ground, It rained here on Monday and Tuesday of this week, what I meant was, if it didn't stop raining the ground would not be dry enough to plow. thanks to everyone that replied for the info on plowing methods. I forgot to mention in first post that I will be plowing a 9 acre hay field.
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #13  
If the moleboards are rusty perhaps try sanding them before you start. Take care and adjust the plough properly as soon as you start.
Happy ploughing

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #14  
<font color="blue"> If the moleboards are rusty perhaps try sanding them before you start. </font>
Before he gets around the field once, they will shine.
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #15  
</font><font color="blueclass=small">( Drive a straight line if able....by looking at a stationary point at the far end of that field, and keeping that stationary point between your legs and NOT THE CENTER OF THE TRACTOR. )</font>

I'm curious, what do you mean by keeping the stationary point between your legs and not the center of the tractor. How would you do that? And why would the two points be different? When I'm plowing (or mowing) I always try to keep the center of the hood on the tractor on the stationary point. In fact, I have a distinct memory of my Dad telling me, "keep the radiator cap (on the Ford) pointed at that tree". What were we doing wrong? It seems to work. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #16  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Dberg,

This may help, it is the instructions from my 10" moldboard that I bought a couple of years ago. Hopefully you will be able to see as the scan was very large and I had to use Pixresizer to reduce to post. If you cannot read, send me a PM and I can email them to you. )</font>

Yep, that's the way I was taught. Start in the middle and work your way out. If the field's too big (so that moving from one side to the other takes too long) break up the field into smaller pieces
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #17  
I didn't know Lowes sold 3pt stuff. I'm going to pay them a visit this weekend and see if my local store has plows or can order one for me.
 
/ Moldboard Plowing newbie question #18  
ronbo3,

They don't sell 3-point, I neglected to mention that the one I have is a sleeve hitch style. I built an adaptor using a 2" receiver for it. I had the unit for my old Cub Garden Tractor which was a sleeve hitch, so I didn't see any reason to go buy a new one when I got the Kubota.

The normal price at the time was $190 or so if I recall (it had originally been $160 ish when I first started looking at it but two years later it had gone up before they clearanced it back down).
 
 

Marketplace Items

2002 Kenworth T300 TMA Attenuator Truck (A64194)
2002 Kenworth T300...
2014 KENWORTH T370 ROAD TRACTOR (A62130)
2014 KENWORTH T370...
2015 HAMM H11IX PADFOOT ROLLER (A64279)
2015 HAMM H11IX...
Merlo MF34.7 CS (A62177)
Merlo MF34.7 CS...
Excavator trenching bucket- one bucket per lot (A63118)
Excavator...
Land honor Mini Skid Steer (A60352)
Land honor Mini...
 
Top