Miter Saws

[jaydee325]

I'd like to get a power miter saw. Strictly occasional home owner DYI use.

Prices range from about $100 and up. So, what should I expect to spend?

Unfortunately, I'm not sure of which features are important that I should get in a saw, so looking for some information in this respect as well.

Most of the uses I envision will be cutting miters on trim. I've also got a project coming up where I'll be installing a laminate floating floor, so I'm thinking width of cross cuts would be important.

Thanks in advance for the input.

 

[buck12]

I bought a Dewalt 12” sliding miter saw last June after my old Craftsman gave up the ghost. I bought the one without the laser. We are building a cabin and I have done all the trim for the entire cabin and laminate flooring in the loft with it. I was not pleased with the original blade and bought a upper end blade from Harbor Freight. I also bought a Delta rolling miter saw stand. The stand is really good for moving the saw around and for storage. The down side is the extendable arms flex and require adjustment each time I extend them.

I also looked at the Harbor Freight Hercules saw. It seemed to be good saw. I really do not remember why I choose the Dewalt

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Just a cut off saw, (some call them a chop saw) OR a sliding miter saw????

I have a couple, IF all I was going to do if ruff cuts in 2x4's or the like, a cheapo chop saw will be ok, BUT if I was going to do anything where I wanted good accuracy, especially repeatable accuracy, then I spend more money for something like a Dewalt on up...

For MY money, I wouldn't even consider a cheapo "sliding miter" saw...

SR

 

[s219]

Do you need to make compound miter cuts or just simple miter cuts? That will give you a rough sort of saws into two categories and price ranges.

Even cheap saws (Harbor Freight, other box store brands) are going to be decent for around $100. On the other extreme, if you really want a Cadillac saw that you'll love, the DeWalt 12" miter saws are about as nice as it gets for a high-end-homeowner or semi-pro saw. They range from $250-350 depending on features.

I worked on a job where the contractor provided a DeWalt 12" miter saw, and it was so nice, when I went back to my Ryobi saw at home I couldn't stand it. I bought that DeWalt the very next day.

 

[downsizingnow48]

I got a new Milwaukee M18 7 1/4" sliding dual bevel saw to install new siding and trim on our three buildings. It is lightweight (28 lbs), accurate, easy to use. I put it on a Ridgid miter stand which has easy-rolling 12" wheels and a simple fold up design with good extensions. Max cut is 2x8.

For bigger stuff I still have my 35 year old Bosch single bevel sliding miter saw.

 

[2LaneCruzer]

I have a Mikita sliding compound miter saw that I bought probably 20 years ago, and paid about $400 then. I'm not a pro, but I really like it...it's a must have item for me.

 

[ustmd]

If you really want high end and accuracy, you can go buy a Festool Kapex---

I used to have a 12 inched compound sliding miter saw, but I had trouble keeping it tuned up. I finally discovered that it was the bearings in the slide that were out.

In looking at a replacement, I realized, I didn't really need a 12 inch slider, so I just went with a Dewalt 12 inch compound miter and it has served my needs- I ended up spending list $350 for the saw, but I highly recommend, if you are going to be doing trim work, to invest in a good blade. Avoid most of the ones at the big box stores. Look on-line at a CMT blade or something for woodworking...the blade is going to set you back another $100-$150, but it will be worth it.

 

[Budweiser John]

A pair of 12” single bevel DeWalt chop saws was all I ever needed in nearly 30 years of doing carpentry work.
As others have stated, a premium after market blade makes a difference as does some decent extension tables.

My son has a DeWalt slider but that critter is heavy and it looks like there is a lotta room for stuff to get out of whack.

B. John

 

[EddieWalker]

I have a Delta 12 inch miter saw and it's worked well for the last 15 years. When it dies, I'll look at a slider. I hate that I have to flip over every shelf that I cut.

For saw blades, I've recently tried the Spyder brand, and I'm impressed.

My favorite brand for tools is Makita, so that's what I will look at first when I go to buy. I have a bunch of Makita cordless tools too and I'm debating with myself to by one of their cordless miter saws. It takes two 18 volt batteries and it will be a lot easier to carry to jobs that I'm working on.

The two reasons I use my miter saw are for framing, and trim work. I could probably do either a lot faster and easier with the cordless one. The only advantage to that big 12 inch blade is being able to cut bigger boards in one cut, but if I had a slider, a smaller blade would be able to do that too.

After Makita, I guess Milwaukee would be my second choice. I'm not a fan of DeWalt, but it's better then the junk brands. They just don't seem to hold up for very long, and there is too much plastic on all of the DeWalt tools that I've bought over the years. I'm sure I'll buy them again, but I would really try to find Makita first if possible.

 

[Rowdy Redneck]

I had a $600 Dewalt 12" slider and after it was stolen I was looking at another one at Home Depot. Next to it was a Ryobi for $250. I figured it was worth the risk and I was right. I've used it for two 16x64 decks, laminate flooring in six houses, and much more. I'm under no illusions that it is premium by any means, but it's done everything that I've asked it to. Like Eddie I am also very interested in a cordless one.

 

[downsizingnow48]

I got the Milwaukee cordless miter saw, but also looked closely at the Makita cordless. I have a lot of Makita cordless tools so that was my first thought. Also it cuts 12" compared to Milwaukee 8". But the Milwaukee is dual bevel which is handy on siding which is the main reason I wanted a new small saw. So ended up with the Milwaukee over the Makita. There are other cordless miter saws about 1/2 the price of the Makita and Milwaukee but I did not look at them.

 

[senecak19]

I ran both Dewalt 12 chop and sliding saws. I ended up selling the chop saw as my sliding miter does everything. The other ended up collecting dust. I didn稚 buy the matching stand for a decade after buying the first one and now that I have it, I値l never go without. Especially for trim! Home owner use a Dewalt should last you a lifetime. Parts are available too.

 

[Cliff_Johns]

Almost as important as the saw is the table or stand you use. If you have a good place to put a longer table (against a wall?) the miter saw becomes far more useful. Done, right, you can remove the saw from the table for site work. A good stand works at home or on-site.

I went the whole distance, but even a couple or three feet on one side of the saw makes the saw good deal better.

View attachment 684689

 

[dieselscout80]

You need to know what size trim you are wanting to cut.

I have a 10" sliding dual bevel miter saw that has been excellent.

However I went to cut some 6" trim verticality the other day and the saw hit before the cut was complete. That said by laying it down flat I was able to make the cut.

A 12" saw would have made the same cut with the board setting vertical.

I would always get a slider, but beware they are heavy and some what unwieldy to move without a stand.

 

[downsizingnow48]

I added a Incra cross cut gauge to my miter saw and stand. I can do fast and perfect repeat cuts up to 70". If you dont have room for a table this can be handy. Also think about the clamp. 99% of the time it is not needed. But for instance doing perfect bevel cuts on floppy 8" siding you need to hold the wood flat and tight. The standard clamps on every saw I have seen are all the same and clunky to the point of useless. Festool makes a nice quick release clamp for $90. But you can get the same functionality with a 1/2" bolt.

 

[jaydee325]

Thanks for all the input.

I've only been able to do some web research. I'm hoping to get out and kick some tires.

Between a 10" slider and a 12" single bevel compound; if either saw met my cutting requirements, which type would you choose and why?

 

[EddieWalker]

Almost as important as the saw is the table or stand you use. If you have a good place to put a longer table (against a wall?) the miter saw becomes far more useful. Done, right, you can remove the saw from the table for site work. A good stand works at home or on-site.

I went the whole distance, but even a couple or three feet on one side of the saw makes the saw good deal better.

View attachment 684689

I do most of my miter saw work off of the tailgate of my truck. It's the perfect height and the feet of the saw hook over the edge of my tailgate so it's very steady. To deal with long lengths or wood, I put a roller stand on either side of my truck to support the wood. I have 6 of them because the first two sucked, then the next two sucked, and finally I found two that have good, solid handles to tighten and loosen it when setting the height. A lot of the time, I'll have one in the street, and the other on the grass between the sidewalk and my truck, so they have to be adjusted every place that I park for the day. They also come in very handy when using my router table and my table saw!!!

I do not have this brand, I was just on Lowes site figuring out a bid for a client, when I looked for an example of what I'm talking about.


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Steel-Adjustable-Rolling-Table-Saw-Stand/1000096718

 

[buck12]

I do most of my miter saw work off of the tailgate of my truck. It's the perfect height and the feet of the saw hook over the edge of my tailgate so it's very steady. To deal with long lengths or wood, I put a roller stand on either side of my truck to support the wood. I have 6 of them because the first two sucked, then the next two sucked, and finally I found two that have good, solid handles to tighten and loosen it when setting the height. A lot of the time, I'll have one in the street, and the other on the grass between the sidewalk and my truck, so they have to be adjusted every place that I park for the day. They also come in very handy when using my router table and my table saw!!!

I do not have this brand, I was just on Lowes site figuring out a bid for a client, when I looked for an example of what I'm talking about.


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Steel-Adjustable-Rolling-Table-Saw-Stand/1000096718

Tailgates make a great workbench. We could have a whole thread on tailgates.

 

[Macinnis]

I recently had to get a new one...went with this and love it: 10 in. Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Cruzer Miter saw

You can set it up right against the wall, has a shadow line instead of those inaccurate lasers...really well put together saw.

 

[dieselscout80]

I added a Incra cross cut gauge to my miter saw and stand. I can do fast and perfect repeat cuts up to 70". If you dont have room for a table this can be handy. Also think about the clamp. 99% of the time it is not needed. But for instance doing perfect bevel cuts on floppy 8" siding you need to hold the wood flat and tight. The standard clamps on every saw I have seen are all the same and clunky to the point of useless. Festool makes a nice quick release clamp for $90. But you can get the same functionality with a 1/2" bolt.

Downsizingnow48, how do you like your stand for your miter box?