MF 50 diesel sway bar ?

[docrocky]

My MF 50 has a very low speed 1st. gear ,almost a creeper. This is great for running PTO at high rpm especially using a flail-mower in the very high grass this wet summer gave us.
My question is: I only have one sway bar connection to the read axle. Can I safely operate a flail mower without sway bar? I am in the process of locating another proper bracket which fits under the fender bracket but would like to be flailing while I wait.

 

[The kid]

I flail mower is a pretty heavy implement. The whole purpose of the stabilizer bars is to prevent side to side movement especially while making slow turns. You should also have check chains comming from the PTO bolts to the lift arms. This prevents sideway shift into the wheels. It also limits how far your implement will move from side to side. The stabilizer bars does exactly as they are named. They prevent any movement and stabilize the trailing implement. See the attached illustration. The attachment to the axle fender holes and usually has three holes to chose from when mating the stabilizer bar to the lift arm.

I would not run a flail mower with your current setup. You need to beef it up a bit and at least correct the check chains to the lift arms.

View attachment 336340

This picture is the bracket that bolts under the rear axle on each side that the stabilizer bar attaches to.

View attachment 336341

Showing the bracket attached to the axle.

View attachment 336342

 

[docrocky]

The Kid: I want to thank you for your very thorough reply to my quest. I will certainly not use it till I have all the safety features in place.
Rocky

 

[The kid]

George, I've seem most of those needed parts for sell on eBay both new and old. You might do a search on the net for Massey Ferguson salvage yards to locate a set of check chains and adjusters for the lift bars. There needs to be at least one adjuster to keep your implement level due the lifts may not lift evenly or using a blade and need to angle it a bit when grading. My leveler is located on the right side standing behind the tractor. Ever new ones are fairly reasonable.

The stablizer bars where bars where originally a flat bar with one hole on each end. I bent one backing up after losing a clevis pin. I replaced with two adjustable ones similar to the one on yours. When you have them on. Whatever your trailing stays put really well. The picture I provided of the attachment piece that mounts below the axle could easily be fabricated. That's why I posted the picture. Good luck. -robert

 

[docrocky]

The Kid: Robert I have done what you recommended: I added 1 adjustable sway bar, now i have 2; a new adjuster for the lift bar, check chains as well as drop chains. I was then given 2 brackets similar to the ones you showed and installed them, since the one I did have was not symmetrical to the one I had on the tractor. I then happened to come across heavy moisture (oil looked like chocolate milk) in the hydraulic case and on the advice of an old MF dealer, I meticulously drained over 48 hours and air blew out the compartment. He then recommended I instill 5 gal of diesel into the case and drove the tractor very slowly to let it slosh around then drained 1/2 24 hours and the rest another 24 hours. I blew in air till no more drops came out of the drain plug. I then installed 7 gal TSC Premium Hydraulic/tranny fluid. I then went out a re loaded the Mott flail mower but after a very short pass in tall grass, the hydraulic lift would creep up on its own and would only slowly lower after I pushed in the clutch.
I have tried every which way to make sure the mower is balanced. My question is this Mott (72") too big and heavy for this MF 50 Diesel of mine? Couple of pictures included. Also, note the sway bar brackets prevent the sway bars from drifting laterally. Is this going to be a problem. The original MF bracket has only one hole for the sway pin and would allow a short radius of in and out sway.

Thank You for your patience...

 

[The kid]

doc, the stabilizer bars keep that mower riding nicely behind you especially when making slight or quick turns. If the implement is creeping up. Check your draft setting which may be up too far. The mower rides across the ground, does it not. Of the hitch can pick it up with no problem and the tractor doesn't bog down going thru high grass, I's say your good to go. Watch your tractor water temp going slow with high revs in high grass. grass can clog a radiator front quick and should be checked frequently. Less air passing thru the radiator might cause a cooling problem.

Here's a picture of my 3P hitch with stabilizer bars while pulling a 5ft cutter. -kid

 

[docrocky]

The Kid: Does it get any better...or worse than this??? I went out and tried the tractor after you reply. soon as I start up and let the clutch out the hydraulic lift starts to lift, no matter were i have the lever. I then changed the lower link pin thinking that the nut and bolt I had the Mott flailer/mower was to tight and binding the lift arm. This didn't stop the unwanted lifting. I then adjusted the controls (more played with them) and backed it out of the barn and it seemed that I could control the position of the Mott much better. The drift was in the lowest position possible. Only the RESTORE was altered, I think... I was about to do a test cutting with the Mott in a higher position because of the thick weed growth....then as I tried to shift the gear from reverse, the gear selector wouldn't budge. No matter what I did it would not move out of reverse, like shutting down, multiple clutch positions as well as h or Lo positions. I may just put it in the barn and work on it this winter or spring...Included are some photos of the controls I played with...not while anything was running...Sshucks!!!!

 

[The kid]

Basically you have three levers. The,one down by your right foot is the speed the lift operated. Some implements can be damaged if picked up too quickly. For instance your flail mower could get damaged if picked up too quickly. Thus this adjustment on the side.

The two levers on the right fender. One is draft control. The other is implement lift (position) height. There is no need to use the DRAFT control. The draft control controls a hydraulic piston which is part of the three point hitch. If you where plowing with a one bottom plow. The draft control compensates for uneven ground and will either push or pull the implement by sensing drag pr lack of to maintain an ever depth while plowing. That is if working properly. In your picture on lever is marked DRAFT. The other is mark POSITION.

THE POSITION control is just that. Position. Pull the draft control up and see if the position control now will raise and lower your mower. If all is in proper order (mechanically) you should be able to control the position. If not then there may be an adjustment needing to be made or something broken or come loose. I'm no expert and maybe if I didn't explain it correctly someone will chime in. -kid

 

[docrocky]

I can not get the tractor out of reverse. The gear shift is stuck. Is there an easy way into the gear box /selector yokes??

 

[The kid]

I can not get the tractor out of reverse. The gear shift is stuck. Is there an easy way into the gear box /selector yokes??

There is a hydraulic fill cap on the top left of the shifter. Remove that filler cap. There are two sliding bars you can see inside. In neutral the open boxes are side by side. People use a large screwdriver to push it forward or back when this happens.