Massey Ferguson 230. The little tractor that could not

[airbiscuit]

Here is what you are looking for in the bottom of your case ...



Massey Ferguson Tractor Hydraulic Control Valve Roller - 89822M1

 

[shona13]

G'day airbiscuit.
Does it come with a piece of cotton attached:thumbsup:
Hutch

 

[Rcl700]

Well to date i have not retrived the roller wheel. It has eluded my telescoping magnet. I did however pull out a piece of metal that is concerning. It looks to me like a small piece of piston ring I will attach a photo.

Any any idea what this piece could be or what it means for this project going forward?

 

[shona13]

looks like a piece of piston ring from the lift piston ,the only way the ring could be in the bottom of the gearbox is from a previous repair and the ring was broken during fitting.
if when you get the hydraulics working with the engine running and the hydraulics set in the lift position get a mirror and look up inside the housing,up the very top if there is oil leaking this is an indication that all is not well with the piston and lift cylinder a small drip say one drip every 5 seconds is acceptable.
leave the old roller there it will do no harm,most often it comes to rest right under the hydraulic pump try a piece of fencing wire bent into an l shape and work it under the pump and try to flick the roller out then pick up with one of those neodymium magnets , they are so strong you could just about lift the tractor up with them
keep us posted.
Hutch.

 

[Rcl700]

Okay, I have lifted the cap and the pipe came out with it. I 'm not sure if it was seated in the pump, but it is now. Once the pipe was seated I turned the motor over with the stop lever pulled out. The pipe did immediately pumped oil from the tube.
Now for the downer.. The lift arms still did not lower, even with the cap removed.

I still have not located the roller wheel.

 

[shona13]

G'day Rc.
Ok you will have to remove the lift cover, make a bracket that you can bolt to bothe the bolts that hold the seat on ,a piece of 2 or 3 inch angle iron will do
remove all the outside bolts (do not remove the four bolts in the centre under the seat) ,note the front right hand corner bolt should be shorter than the other bolts make sure when you reassemble that this short bolt goes back in the same spot, use a car engine lifter or a chain block and lift the cover of straight up otherwise you could bend something,when you have the cover of turn it upside down ,best do it on a bench put a piece of 4x2 under the cover to hold it up a bit, I would expect you will see the piston either jambed or broken any way the arms should move up and down freely.
Let me know what you find and we can go from there.
Happy Days.
Hutch:thumbsup:

 

[airbiscuit]

G'day Rc.
Ok you will have to remove the lift cover, make a bracket that you can bolt to bothe the bolts that hold the seat on ,a piece of 2 or 3 inch angle iron will do
remove all the outside bolts (do not remove the four bolts in the centre under the seat) ,note the front right hand corner bolt should be shorter than the other bolts make sure when you reassemble that this short bolt goes back in the same spot, use a car engine lifter or a chain block and lift the cover of straight up otherwise you could bend something,when you have the cover of turn it upside down ,best do it on a bench put a piece of 4x2 under the cover to hold it up a bit, I would expect you will see the piston either jambed or broken any way the arms should move up and down freely.
Let me know what you find and we can go from there.
Happy Days.
Hutch:thumbsup:

Should he pull the tube under that little "hump" cover before he elevates the lift assembly? No matter what, I am guessing that it is best to raise that lift assembly as close to vertically as possible.

 

[shona13]

the transfer cap ?cover with the Bump is already off no real need to pull the standpipe out although it will be removed on assembly.
Cheers Hutch.

 

[Rcl700]

I have access to an engine hoist. I'll get the cover removed and keep yall posted..

Thanks again so much.
This is all new to me and its great to have clear detailed instructions on what I should see and do.

RCL700

 

[Rcl700]

the transfer cap ?cover with the Bump is already off no real need to pull the standpipe out although it will be removed on assembly.
Cheers Hutch.

Well I have an update to the cover removal. This just keeps getting better. I removed the bolts and attempted to lift the cover. I was unable to get it up more that about an inch or two. The problem was that front closest to the sifters, sits almost against the case. At the back of the cover, lies the newly discovered problem. Under the case the lift piston pushes into a cup (fig #26 parts diagram) with the lift arms fully up this part extends under the back edge of the case. All this to say I cant lift the cover strait up to remove it.

Once I got the cover partly lifted I was able to use a light to ID what was holding the cover from coming out. What I found was not good. The fig. #26 part is broken into pieces and the lift piston is pushed way out, exposing the rings (seen from the side cover hole). The lift parts are in bad shape. I don't know how I'm going to get this cover off with the lift parts hanging out of the back.

I apologize for the poor explanation of what is happening, hopefully some of the photos will help with the explanation.

I'm sorry for the sideways/ upside down photos. I have saved them on my PC in the correct orientation, but when uploaded they post incorrectly.