Mahindra 3510 loader float valve

   / Mahindra 3510 loader float valve
  • Thread Starter
#31  
With the cap and sleeve off will the lever move freely? Just need to make sure it's the sleeve restricting it and not something in the valve.

I've had something similar happen with my wood splitter valve. I used steel wool on a drillbit to scrub the inside of the sleeve. Doesn't take much corrosion to make it bind up.
That’s a good question. I did not try mounting the screw valve onto the bracket and just trying it without the cap on.

Steel wool might be a good idea. The ball bearings themselves are a little rough, not smooth and the walls of the sleeve do have a a little rough spots on them. When I get up to the property this weekend, I will take those apart and do that or try some 320 grit sandpaper wrapped up or something.
 
   / Mahindra 3510 loader float valve
  • Thread Starter
#32  
That’s a good question. I did not try mounting the screw valve onto the bracket and just trying it without the cap on.

Steel wool might be a good idea. The ball bearings themselves are a little rough, not smooth and the walls of the sleeve do have a a little rough spots on them. When I get up to the property this weekend, I will take those apart and do that or try some 320 grit sandpaper wrapped up or something.
Spool valve** ^^
 
   / Mahindra 3510 loader float valve
  • Thread Starter
#33  
Ok, a little delayed because tonight was the first time I was able to get up to the property and work on it since I was last there…

I took the cap sleeve and ball bearings out. Mounted it back up and the valve seemed to depress fully as if it would go into float mode.

I brought home a little drill mounted wire brush head and spun it around inside the sleeve, trying to clean it up a little bit. From what I could tell, it looked like it was working, but it was getting dark and I have no light up on the property except my phone.

I bought new chrome plated ball bearings, and placed them in and depressed the needle to slide the sleeve on… attached to cap and remounted it, but it still did not depressed Fully into the detent.. It was getting late and dark so I had to give up once again.. I have it able to go into the fast dump detent.. I’m just not sure why it won’t go into the float detent..

Does anybody on here have a picture of their cap removed so I can compare the way the internals look like? There has to be an explanation and a fix.

I pulled up a manual for the ML 106 loader and it has specific pages on float detent Mine is an ML 108H I assume the spool valves are similar.. so I know it has a float detent.
 
   / Mahindra 3510 loader float valve
  • Thread Starter
#34  
The spool (the actual rod that moves back & forth thru the valve) has a radiused groove in it. Under the detent cap is a spring with a steel ball sitting on it that engages that groove when the spool is pushed all the way (forward on my 4110) and when ALL the parts are fresh it will catch & hold. The cap has a vent hole that will let moisture in and destroy the spring and ball over time - only took about 2 or 3 years on my 4110. All of that rusted metal inside the cap can keep the spool from going far enough to get to the float position - it did on mine years ago.

I cleaned mine out, found a suitable spring & ball and greased it up good and tried that - no joy, the grease wouldn't let it catch in the groove and stay. Cleaned the grease off and it worked - for awhile. The edge of the groove in the spool will get slightly rounded with wear and at some point you might as well leave the spring & ball out and just hold the joystick in the float mode if you need it - that's what I have done for many years now.

When you took yours apart. Was the detent groove at the bottom of the cap or towards the spring?
 
   / Mahindra 3510 loader float valve #35  
I worked on mine over 18 years ago and I've slept since then, I'm 70 years old and my memory isn't quite as good as it used to be ! Like I said in my other post, my spool was worn too badly for it to work properly anymore so I've just held the joystick in the float position when I need it. Plus, my joystick valve is a Sauer-Danfoss on a ML112 loader, might not be the same as yours and could be built differently. If I were you I would leave the guts out and just put the cap back on and use the float manually.
 

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