Mahindra 3510 loader float valve

[skipmarcy]

The spool (the actual rod that moves back & forth thru the valve) has a radiused groove in it. Under the detent cap is a spring with a steel ball sitting on it that engages that groove when the spool is pushed all the way (forward on my 4110) and when ALL the parts are fresh it will catch & hold. The cap has a vent hole that will let moisture in and destroy the spring and ball over time - only took about 2 or 3 years on my 4110. All of that rusted metal inside the cap can keep the spool from going far enough to get to the float position - it did on mine years ago.

I cleaned mine out, found a suitable spring & ball and greased it up good and tried that - no joy, the grease wouldn't let it catch in the groove and stay. Cleaned the grease off and it worked - for awhile. The edge of the groove in the spool will get slightly rounded with wear and at some point you might as well leave the spring & ball out and just hold the joystick in the float mode if you need it - that's what I have done for many years now.

 

[Mattyboy936]

The spool (the actual rod that moves back & forth thru the valve) has a radiused groove in it. Under the detent cap is a spring with a steel ball sitting on it that engages that groove when the spool is pushed all the way (forward on my 4110) and when ALL the parts are fresh it will catch & hold. The cap has a vent hole that will let moisture in and destroy the spring and ball over time - only took about 2 or 3 years on my 4110. All of that rusted metal inside the cap can keep the spool from going far enough to get to the float position - it did on mine years ago.

I cleaned mine out, found a suitable spring & ball and greased it up good and tried that - no joy, the grease wouldn't let it catch in the groove and stay. Cleaned the grease off and it worked - for awhile. The edge of the groove in the spool will get slightly rounded with wear and at some point you might as well leave the spring & ball out and just hold the joystick in the float mode if you need it - that's what I have done for many years now.

The tractor has sat outside for years uncovered so I could see it being rusted. Inside. Poor design flaw. I will pull the caps off and see if anything is rusted stuck

 

[Mattyboy936]

Here is what I found when I pulled the cap off the valve.

Both were pretty caked with gunk.

Unfortunately I was in the woods on my property that I’m building my house and didn’t have cleaner or penetrating oil so I used diesel

I cleaned it and put it back together. Unfortunately Im not sure.. slim chance it might be backwards. I need to find a diagram to verify.

I got it cleaned up and there is a groove in the leave where two ball bearing I assume should go? Is that the detent that is the float? Should that sleeve be flipped? Groove on bottom or top?

 

[Mattyboy936]

When I cleaned it up and reinstalled the sleeve over the all bearing and needle I put the groove on the bottom side of the cap. Does that seem right?

 

[Offroadtek]

Those are a little gummed up. Break all that free and it should work better.
I think the step would go down so it holds the lever at its farthest throw point.
Same with the fast dump detent.

Does the needle move freely inside the bearing holder and spring?

Good pictures.

 

[Mattyboy936]

Ok I did notice a groove in the bucket tilt as well. But that groove is up by the spring… where I put the groove on the up/down at the end of the cap after. That’s where I second guessed my reinstallation.

I don’t notice a fast dump click on my
Valve. I didn’t know it had that. The valve doesn’t stay in dump when I go to the side with the lever.

I will take some wd40 and spray/clean the crap out of both caps next time I’m up on the property. The tilt has just as much gunk in it as the up down..

As far as the needle being free.. it is and goes inside to allow the ball bearings to compress.

I looked all over the internet and cannot for the life of me find an exploded image of the caps. I can find the kmw05802042 hydraulic spool valve used on the loader but it just shows the cap no sleeves or internals

 

[Offroadtek]

Ok. Then assuming someone didn’t switch the sleeves up in the past, the groove should go up. I saw the fast dump option on your diagram.

Free everything up and you should be good. There’s not much in there to wear out, just crude up.

 

[Mattyboy936]

Ok. Then assuming someone didn’t switch the sleeves up in the past, the groove should go up. I saw the fast dump option on your diagram.

Free everything up and you should be good. There’s not much in there to wear out, just crude up.

duh that’s my blonde moment for the day.

Next time I am up on the property I will take a look at the valve and try and clean everything up

 

[Mattyboy936]

An update on the valve issue. I took both caps off.. brake cleaned the crap out of both removing all the crud off. I wd40ed the piss out of both and used red grease on the sleeves.. I was able to get the fast dump to work but still having a hard time with the float. The lever doesn’t want to go into the detent I feel like I got it once but it popped out and won’t go back in.. I’ll have to take it back apart. I wonder if I can replace the ball bearing and smooth out the inside of the sleeves.

 

[Offroadtek]

With the cap and sleeve off will the lever move freely? Just need to make sure it's the sleeve restricting it and not something in the valve.

I've had something similar happen with my wood splitter valve. I used steel wool on a drillbit to scrub the inside of the sleeve. Doesn't take much corrosion to make it bind up.