M59 Discussion Thread

[TBarD]

Lauren, thanks much for dump trailer advice. I took some measurements and think the 16' will be ok for weight distribution, but you are right, I should look into it more carefully. Backing in would probably not work well with a GN (maybe; if the goose neck forks which they
do tend to do). I think I would be in trouble with the 14' dump; that extra 2 feet makes a difference for tractor hauling. The trailer I have been looking at has 8K axles, 16K total, which ought to be enough and is at or over what I should be hauling already. A tri-axle trailer should be able to haul like 20K! That is too much for my truck and for hauling in the mountains; at that point I would be thinking about buying a used dump truck.

The three way tailgate would be nice to have; the PJ I am looking at has only the 2-way. Rear axle weight is a concern. My truck is also SRW, however the axle itself is rated at 10.5 or 11K. It is the wheels and tires that limit the rear axle rating to 6.6K or so (only 3+K for the load itself). A solution is to use 19.5 commercial truck tires and steel wheels - these are rated to 5K or better per wheel, as good as a dually. I don't see how a tri-axle trailer would help, since one still needs to have 15-20% of the weight on the pin. Check out for example, Rickson truck wheels.

 

[TBarD]

Lauren, thanks much for dump trailer advice. I took some measurements and think the 16' will be ok for weight distribution, but you are right, I should look into it more carefully.

A good test will be to load the tractor on my 22' bumper pull and use the Sherline scale to adjust the weight distribution. Then the distance from between the trailer axles to the front of the tractor will roughly give the minimum clearance at the front of the trailer required for a balanced load (with a bit of leeway as the front of the GN itself adds quite a bit of front weight). I will try that before I buy the dump trailer.

 

[az rancher]

One rule of thumb i have found with goosenecks is they will put about 20 to 25% of total weight on the truck if loaded fairly normal.
I just bought a used m59 in texas with the thumb and front and rear remotes. I plan to put skidsteer couplers on the front to match a hydraulic auger but i need 10 male quick couplers to attach my t&t and gannon. I also have a rock picker that needs 4. Have any of you guys found a quick coupler after market that will work on the m59 remotes. I looked at the parker #'s on them today and can't even find them on parkers website.

Thanks, Fred

 

[TBarD]

Hi AZR - I used to live in Arizona, remember the Tombstone area well, good country.

I have a very similar setup. I replaced the front remote quick disconnects on my M59 with 1/2" flat face / skid steer QDs and these work fine with every attachment I have gotten so far. The factory QDs front and rear on the M59 are standard 1/2" Ag (ISO 5675) quick disconnects, which are available from many sites. Just look for hydraulic quick disconnects, 1/2", male, Ag-style ISO 5675 coupler. The thing to watch out for is what type of connector is used to connect to the hydraulic hose on the implement, e.g., 3/4-16 ORB (with O-ring), NPT, etc. But 1/2" Ag-style ISO 5675 male tip QD is pretty standard for the rear quick disconnects.

 

[az rancher]

Thanks T-D, I looked at lots of couplers but was scared to buy as the females on the tractor have a hole in the center pin and i've never seen that type connector. Where abouts in Co. and Nm? I've traveled around both a fair bit.

 

[TBarD]

Thanks T-D, I looked at lots of couplers but was scared to buy as the females on the tractor have a hole in the center pin and i've never seen that type connector. Where abouts in Co. and Nm? I've traveled around both a fair bit.

The couplers on my rear remotes are the same, with part number Parker 9006-001 which appears from other postings to be common on Kubota tractors, although I don't see it in the most recent Parker catalog. While the couplers vary quite a bit, the ISO 5675, Parker 8010 style tip appears to be a universal standard, and they are fairly cheap.

Re NM,CO - it's best to not be too specific about locations on a public forum, but I'm located these days in the farm country along the Rio Grande south of Albuquerque, and in the San Juan mountains in SW Colorado, both fairly remote locations.

 

[rScotty]

That's good hydraulic info, thanks TBarD.

The M59 has pretty much proven itself doing heavy construction this last half a year, but I think it will benefit from a couple of additions. Anyone having experience or opinions is welcome to weigh in.....there are things I think I want to add, but don't know much about.

First thing is a seat upgrade. The M-series Ag tractors have a seat with air shocks and give a much smoother ride. There's probably an aftermarket seat that will fit the M59...has anyone done this?

Any newish news on cabs for the M59?

Anything I'm missing about M59 upgrades or add-ons??
rScotty




I have some thoughts on smoothing out the ride with bucket full/empty on rough roads. I think I'll post that question to one of the fabrication forums - it's more than a Kubota question. I'll post a link here if it gets going.

 

[lhansman]

Hi rScotty

I am contemplating replacing the seat in my L45 too with a suspension seat similar to what 4shorts did. Let me know if you find something you like that rotates. I foamed all four tires on the L45 and I don't road the machine a lot but it is definitely a little rough and an air ride seat would be nice.

Lauren

 

[TBarD]

I finally went ahead and got the dump trailer mentioned in an earlier post. This is to confirm that the M59 fits a 16' dump trailer well; I am even able to close the rear gate. Loading, tie-down, and hooking up to the truck with the gooseneck all look easier than with the flat bed trailer. Attached is a picture of the tractor loaded into the dump trailer to check out the fit, although I have not yet had a chance to tow with it loaded.

 

[ultrarunner]

Looks like a neat package... made to order.

 

[AWM59]

I finally went ahead and got the dump trailer mentioned in an earlier post. This is to confirm that the M59 fits a 16' dump trailer well; I am even able to close the rear gate. Loading, tie-down, and hooking up to the truck with the gooseneck all look easier than with the flat bed trailer. Attached is a picture of the tractor loaded into the dump trailer to check out the fit, although I have not yet had a chance to tow with it loaded.

What are you hauling your m59 with?

 

[TBarD]

What are you hauling your m59 with?

The truck in my sig - Ram 2500 with the 5.9L diesel engine (but with a few enhancements). By chance I just finished hauling the rig up to Colorado today, over Slumgullion pass at 11500 feet or so, with a 1500 lb box blade on the trailer along with the M59. Probably 14K total. I used the flat bed trailer for this trip, as I have a load of equipment loaded in the dump trailer which I will haul next. Anyway, having done this trip a number of times now, there is no problem hauling the M59 with a full size diesel truck, even over the mountains. An exhaust brake and at least an EGT gauge is essential though.

 

[Tipnback]

Just bought a valby chipper for m59, 140 with the 160 feed option, I am nort sure the correct way to hook it up? Yes I know pto shaft slides in but my big ? Is when hooking it up to rear hydraulics, where back hoe hooks up, does the levers need to be switched and the seat turned around. Owners manual has a small portion about stationary use but does not have any info on how to use the hydraulics properly. Any info would be great

 

[TBarD]

Normally one would use the rear auxiliary hydraulics for something like your 160 hydraulic feed, then it would be a simple hookup. From the Valby specs however it appears that the hydraulic flow range for the 160 is 3-10 gpm, which is probably ok for the rear hydraulics at low rpm (could be up to 15 gpm or so at max rpm which may be required to run the splitter at max!). If you don't have rear aux hydraulics it may be possible to use the backhoe swing circuit instead. I am on travel now though and don't have access to the manuals to check the details, but this may be possible. This would require switching the appropriate lever, and you would need to ensure that the Valby can sustain full flow at all times for the feed unit (probably, but I would check). Hopefully someone who has already setup a splitter with feed will post.

 

[natem]

Just bought a valby chipper for m59, 140 with the 160 feed option, I am nort sure the correct way to hook it up? Yes I know pto shaft slides in but my big ? Is when hooking it up to rear hydraulics, where back hoe hooks up, does the levers need to be switched and the seat turned around. Owners manual has a small portion about stationary use but does not have any info on how to use the hydraulics properly. Any info would be great

If it is the same as the L-45 which has three ports for the back hoe, plug it into the two bigger ones. Make sure when you activate it you only push the right side lever in, NOT both because it will dead head. This is all if it is has the same hook ups as the l45, that's how I have my wallenstien with the hydro feed. Works prefect!

 

[Tipnback]

If it is the same as the L-45 which has three ports for the back hoe, plug it into the two bigger ones. Make sure when you activate it you only push the right side lever in, NOT both because it will dead head. This is all if it is has the same hook ups as the l45, that's how I have my wallenstien with the hydro feed. Works prefect!

I was told to use left 2 ports, red feed and white return with left lever out and right one in, put it together today, just hoses because have to cut shaft, feed turned fine. I was told if I use blue port(main) fluid would not return to tank and will heat up! My Kubota dealership has no clue.

 

[Tipnback]

I was told to use left 2 ports, red feed and white return with left lever out and right one in, put it together today, just hoses because have to cut shaft, feed turned fine. I was told if I use blue port(main) fluid would not return to tank and will heat up! My Kubota dealership has no clue.

Thanx for the reply, when you hook up yours as you described does the 3 pt go up and down without resetting levers? By me using the red(swing) to power and the white (return) and leaving left lever in and right lever out I am able to use the chipper hydraulic feed and use the 3 pt lever up and down. Somewhere in post I heard to use swing and not the blue inlet and local shop also said same thing. Also I forgot about turning seat, don't why I forget have 2000 hours on machine. I did use a American log splitter set up using blue and white post in backhoe mode but that worked but got hot, deadhead as you mentioned. Thanx again

 

[Stonehaller]

Using the swing pump port for your chipper is the best way as that is completely independent of the main pump and will not affect the 3 point lift or loader operation. I use the swing pump port on my L39 to power rear remote valves for TNT when the backhoe is off. For something like a log splitter that can use higher flow you can use the main port but that affects the 3 point lift. Even if you pull the lever out to the backhoe off position, the three point will not get pressure as the plumping relies on the check in the quick disconnect to block flow out the rear main quick disconnect. You either have to disconnect the hose from the main port quick disconnect or what I do with my 3 point splitter is first extend the ram, then pull the lever to the backhoe off position. Then I bungee the lever on the splitter to the extend position. This blocks flow out the quick disconnect and allows pressure for the 3 point. Note that the flow is not deadheaded as long as the lever is in the backhoe off position it is flowing through the 3 point valve.

 

[natem]

Using the swing pump port for your chipper is the best way as that is completely independent of the main pump and will not affect the 3 point lift or loader operation. I use the swing pump port on my L39 to power rear remote valves for TNT when the backhoe is off. For something like a log splitter that can use higher flow you can use the main port but that affects the 3 point lift. Even if you pull the lever out to the backhoe off position, the three point will not get pressure as the plumping relies on the check in the quick disconnect to block flow out the rear main quick disconnect. You either have to disconnect the hose from the main port quick disconnect or what I do with my 3 point splitter is first extend the ram, then pull the lever to the backhoe off position. Then I bungee the lever on the splitter to the extend position. This blocks flow out the quick disconnect and allows pressure for the 3 point. Note that the flow is not deadheaded as long as the lever is in the backhoe off position it is flowing through the 3 point valve.

I may have been miss informed but I remember asking the dealer what the swing port put out and the main port put out and was told the same gpm number for both. But if swing valve is putting out less, I am going to switch mine because it doesn't take that much to make the rollers go and I no longer need the high flow to run the log splitter. As far as running the 3pt hitch while connected I ended up putting a ball valve after the quick connect fitting, works great. I did the unplugging and reconnecting hydro lines for a while and thought that there had to be a better way, and that's what I came up with.

 

[natem]

I may have been miss informed but I remember asking the dealer what the swing port put out and the main port put out and was told the same gpm number for both. But if swing valve is putting out less, I am going to switch mine because it doesn't take that much to make the rollers go and I no longer need the high flow to run the log splitter. As far as running the 3pt hitch while connected I ended up putting a ball valve after the quick connect fitting, works great. I did the unplugging and reconnecting hydro lines for a while and thought that there had to be a better way, and that's what I came up with.

Sorry it's sideways.