Looking for a pre-fab hydraulic top link

[IslandTractor]

I have a naive question. How does one decide what size/length hydraulic top link to buy for your tractor. Is this something where you can predict the right size given the tractor model or do you need to measure some thing? I could measure the top link but obviously that is adjustable. What dimension is the critical one to know?

By the way I have a Kioti CK20 and already have a set of rear remotes so I presume all I need is the cylinder setup and a new set of QC hoses. Is that right?

 

[IslandTractor]

I have a naive question. How does one decide what size/length hydraulic top link to buy for your tractor. Is this something where you can predict the right size given the tractor model or do you need to measure some thing? I could measure the top link but obviously that is adjustable. What dimension is the critical one to know?

By the way I have a Kioti CK20 and already have a set of rear remotes so I presume all I need is the cylinder setup and a new set of QC hoses. Is that right?

 

[sweettractors]

<font color="blue">What dimension is the critical one to know? </font>

Closed length center to center is the most important. check all your implements that you use and make sure that the closed length will work on all--Ken Sweet

 

[sweettractors]

<font color="blue">What dimension is the critical one to know? </font>

Closed length center to center is the most important. check all your implements that you use and make sure that the closed length will work on all--Ken Sweet

 

[JerryG]

Ken,
Is the rod on yours out of the cylinder enough to allow shorting it?

 

[JerryG]

Ken,
Is the rod on yours out of the cylinder enough to allow shorting it?

 

[IslandTractor]

<font color="blue"> Closed length center to center is the most important </font>

Understood. Now, assume I had a 20" center to center measurement (I made that up), what size top link hydraulic cylinder do I buy? Is it the overall length or the calculated stroke range or both that determines the correct size?

thanks

 

[IslandTractor]

<font color="blue"> Closed length center to center is the most important </font>

Understood. Now, assume I had a 20" center to center measurement (I made that up), what size top link hydraulic cylinder do I buy? Is it the overall length or the calculated stroke range or both that determines the correct size?

thanks

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue">
The only issue/problem is that those other USA suppliers do not supply cylinders with double pilot operated check valves. If you don't care about the inevitable cylinder leakdown then I suppose it doesn't matter. </font>

Well yes...and no...as MadRef will probably agree...

A contol valve with Pilot Operated check valves built in will perform about as well as a normal control valve hooked to a cylinder with a PO check valve mounted on it. The ONLY practical difference being if a hose blows, the check valve at the cylinder is superior.

This is of little help though to someone who already has a control valve installed on his tractor waiting to power a cylinder.

I only mention this to aid someone who might be putting a T&T system on their tractor themselves, and whom would therefore hove the opportunity to choose all the components themselves, like many of us do (to save money or for whatever other reason).

Myself, I had to fabricate my own top cylinder, as I needed something that was shorter than CCM had available. Had the CCM cylinder been shorter I would likely have gone that route. So I went with a Prince control valve that had PO check valves built in, and a cylinder that was standard without check valves mounted on it.

My only point here is to point out to those that may not know, that there are other options out there that will work, in most cases, as well as the cylinders that CCM are offering, which have the PO check valves built in. For maximum safety, the check valve at the cylinder is best. But we are not running a man lift, so that issue is probably a moot point.

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue">
The only issue/problem is that those other USA suppliers do not supply cylinders with double pilot operated check valves. If you don't care about the inevitable cylinder leakdown then I suppose it doesn't matter. </font>

Well yes...and no...as MadRef will probably agree...

A contol valve with Pilot Operated check valves built in will perform about as well as a normal control valve hooked to a cylinder with a PO check valve mounted on it. The ONLY practical difference being if a hose blows, the check valve at the cylinder is superior.

This is of little help though to someone who already has a control valve installed on his tractor waiting to power a cylinder.

I only mention this to aid someone who might be putting a T&T system on their tractor themselves, and whom would therefore hove the opportunity to choose all the components themselves, like many of us do (to save money or for whatever other reason).

Myself, I had to fabricate my own top cylinder, as I needed something that was shorter than CCM had available. Had the CCM cylinder been shorter I would likely have gone that route. So I went with a Prince control valve that had PO check valves built in, and a cylinder that was standard without check valves mounted on it.

My only point here is to point out to those that may not know, that there are other options out there that will work, in most cases, as well as the cylinders that CCM are offering, which have the PO check valves built in. For maximum safety, the check valve at the cylinder is best. But we are not running a man lift, so that issue is probably a moot point.

 

[skipmarcy]

When I was ready last year to get a toplink cylinder, CCM was out of stock of their smaller cylinders, plus the retracted length of their cylinder wasn't short enough for my tractor. I built my own cylinder, getting the cylinder & check valve assembly from Surplus Center and the weld-on swivel eyes from TSC. To measure what retracted length I wanted, I simply set my original toplink to level my boxblade and then subtracted a couple inches in order to get some good forward angle, this was a little shorter than my manual toplink would adjust. I made my retracted length right at 16" - this gives me excellent forward angle when I need it for my boxblade and also when loading my rotary cutter on my trailer and when sharpening blades. The 8" stroke of my cylinder gives me a rearward angle that is beyond what I ever need for my equipment but occasionally I roll my boxblade back that far to do a fine drag to level gravel etc., works similar to back dragging your loader bucket. I've been extremely happy with my setup. It's a shame no one makes the cylinders with retracted lengths around 16" or 17", I'm sure alot of tractors in the size range of my 4110 could well benefit from them. A 19" retracted length wouldn't even allow me to get my boxblade level, much less get some forward angle.

 

[skipmarcy]

When I was ready last year to get a toplink cylinder, CCM was out of stock of their smaller cylinders, plus the retracted length of their cylinder wasn't short enough for my tractor. I built my own cylinder, getting the cylinder & check valve assembly from Surplus Center and the weld-on swivel eyes from TSC. To measure what retracted length I wanted, I simply set my original toplink to level my boxblade and then subtracted a couple inches in order to get some good forward angle, this was a little shorter than my manual toplink would adjust. I made my retracted length right at 16" - this gives me excellent forward angle when I need it for my boxblade and also when loading my rotary cutter on my trailer and when sharpening blades. The 8" stroke of my cylinder gives me a rearward angle that is beyond what I ever need for my equipment but occasionally I roll my boxblade back that far to do a fine drag to level gravel etc., works similar to back dragging your loader bucket. I've been extremely happy with my setup. It's a shame no one makes the cylinders with retracted lengths around 16" or 17", I'm sure alot of tractors in the size range of my 4110 could well benefit from them. A 19" retracted length wouldn't even allow me to get my boxblade level, much less get some forward angle.

 

[leeinmemphis]

I got my ccm toplink about 3 or 4 weeks ago and it is incredible! Definitely worth the wait!

 

[leeinmemphis]

I got my ccm toplink about 3 or 4 weeks ago and it is incredible! Definitely worth the wait!

 

[IslandTractor]

I suspose adding "Pat's Easy Change System" would stretch the desired top link length and would perhaps allow those of us with smaller tractors (CK20) to utilize the standard sizes of hydraulic top links rather than needing to do as you did and fabricate a custom size.

 

[IslandTractor]

I suspose adding "Pat's Easy Change System" would stretch the desired top link length and would perhaps allow those of us with smaller tractors (CK20) to utilize the standard sizes of hydraulic top links rather than needing to do as you did and fabricate a custom size.

 

[Alaskanjdeere]

Your right about that one. I just installed Pat's system, works great, but I lost @ 4" off my top link stroke. BB sits flat when cylinder is all the way out. I'm going to weld an extention on the BB to gain it back. Alaskanjdeere

 

[Alaskanjdeere]

Your right about that one. I just installed Pat's system, works great, but I lost @ 4" off my top link stroke. BB sits flat when cylinder is all the way out. I'm going to weld an extention on the BB to gain it back. Alaskanjdeere

 

[sweettractors]

<font color="blue"> Ken,
Is the rod on yours out of the cylinder enough to allow shorting it?
</font>

I dont think it would be feasable. --Ken Sweet

 

[sweettractors]

<font color="blue"> Ken,
Is the rod on yours out of the cylinder enough to allow shorting it?
</font>

I dont think it would be feasable. --Ken Sweet