Logsplitter 2.0

[rswyan]

rswyan where I did work we had what was called a chamfer burn operation. It was basically a track burner with a bevel head torch arrangement. It pre heated in front of the cutting tip. It is more than a hobbyist like myself could afford but that is how large deep chamfers are done with OFC-X. Here is a link maybe of what I am talking about. This is not exactly the same head but similar. http://www.bugo.com/administrator/files/downloadables/Torch_Bro_9_13_1379432409.pdf We would bevel/chamfer anywhere from .50 plate to over 2.0 inch plate and larger at times and with multiple heads. One automated setups had 4 of the bevel head attachments. Just some info. Later

Interesting stuff ... :thumbsup:

Back in the day I used to haul some stuff for these guys:

GS Steel Service Company

If you scope out their "Services" page you can see they had some pretty nice kit, including beveling capability:

Services - GS Steel Service Company

 

[rswyan]

Additional gussets to help keep the push block running parallel with the H-Beam welded on, holes for the pin reamed and pin trimmed and fitted, and pin drilled for the retaining clips:

Cylinder clearly needs de-rusted and a coat of paint ... it will get that when I tear the splitter apart this spring/summer to paint everything else.

 

[rswyan]

Mounting bracket for the return filter welded on. I used the old "Level Indicator" off my Kubota bucket which was removed when I converted it to SSQA:

I installed a 0 - 300 psi liquid-filled pressure gauge on the filter mount to monitor any restriction in the filter. The filter is in the general vicinity of the drain for the reservoir, which hopefully will make servicing a little easier/neater.

I'll be using hose barbs and 1" hose to connect the filter back to the reservoir.

 

[rswyan]

Shot of the table with the valve mounted and some of the hoses fitted:

Really like how it's turning out height-wise ... the top of the beam is about waist/fingertip high for me, and the valve seems like it will be very easy to reach.

I'll be ordering the valve for the log lift and some additional fittings here shortly, after I finish this post.

 

[LD1]

4 in the morning. Don't you sleep

Valve placement is critical. Gotta have it in a place that feels natural. Glad you thought that out.

Why did you decide to Mount the filter on a bracket instead of directly to a nipple on the return port? Would have saved some fittings.

And not sure of you said earlier, but are you using a suction strainer too, since the filter is a return filter?

And where did you (or are you) sourcing parts from?

 

[rswyan]

4 in the morning. Don't you sleep

I'm a bit of night owl ... always have been ...

I'm actually headed to bed here in a few.

Valve placement is critical. Gotta have it in a place that feels natural.

Yup ... I think it will work fine from the front on either side. Fine from the rear (behind the axle/reservoir) on the right (log lift) side ...

Rear, left isn't a place where anyone would want to stand (exhaust from the engine)

Glad you thought that out.

I'm tryin' ...

Why did you decide to Mount the filter on a bracket instead of directly to a nipple on the return port?

A couple of reasons:

1. Seems more out of the way where I mounted it.

2. I already had (several of) the hoses (outlet hose from valve to filter) ... so I'm working with existing hose lengths.

3. More solid/sturdy I think ... (based on the orientation of the elbow and fittings (nipple) on the return port, the weight of the filter would act to unscrew the elbow, vibrations, etc.)

4. Already had the hose/nipples to connect the filter to the return port.

Would have saved some fittings.

True.

And not sure of you said earlier, but are you using a suction strainer too, since the filter is a return filter?

Yes, I am.

And where did you (or are you) sourcing parts from?

Keep in mind I've had some of this stuff for about 10 years ...

Most of the hydraulic stuff came from Surplus Center, some from Northern Tool, and a couple of items (fittings) locally (Summers Rubber) Hoses are from the local TSC.

I looked at the invoice for the 4 x 24 Eaton cylinder the other day ...

IIRC, it was $90 bucks ... it's China ... but it still makes me wish I had picked up a couple of 'em ...

 

[LD1]

Never bought hoses from tsc. Just never figured a prefab hose would be the exact length I want. I got mine from discount hydraulic hose IIRC. Tons cheaper than local shops. How do TSC's prices stack up for hoses?

 

[oldpilgrim]

the hoses I had made in a local shop were 2x the price of a TSC hose.

 

[rswyan]

Never bought hoses from tsc. Just never figured a prefab hose would be the exact length I want.

They (usually) aren't ... which is why you either have to do what I'm doing, as far as placement of components go ... or you just have to live/deal with some extra length.

I will always be able to get a made-to-order hose made to the length I'll need, but going the other way (prefab) success is much less likely.

I got mine from discount hydraulic hose IIRC. Tons cheaper than local shops. How do TSC's prices stack up for hoses?

Like oldpilgrim says, TSC's hoses are likely to be a good bit cheaper than your local "build-to-spec/length" hydraulic shop.

One of the downsides though is that they are only offered with male NPT ends ... no JIC. Another downside is China ...

One of the upsides (for me) is that is that if I need to replace a hose on the weekend, I'll probably be able to source it at one of the four local TSC's that are within 30 - 45 minutes driving distance.

Truthfully, I really would have preferred all JIC/STOR connections ... but it's hard to get completely away from NPT, and I already had a lot of the fittings (bought before I really knew any better ... MadReferee please forgive me ...)

FWIW, I am going with JIC/STOR everywhere I can on my re-plumb of my rear remotes and the addition of front aux hydraulics ... with the hoses likely sourced from DHH.

 

[mikefromnh]

I've bought and been happy with the pre made hose assemblies from surplus center. Price is good but they are slow to ship and UPS takes another 4-5 days to get here.

Amazon now has hydraulic hoses for pretty good prices and with Prime I can have them in 2 days or the next morning for a few bucks more. Cheaper then driving out to the local store.

Amazon.com: Hydraulic hose

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Why the removable table for the valves? You must be seeing something that I'm not as it won't be able to go very far with the valve attached and plumbed.

 

[rswyan]

Why the removable table for the valves?

Because I could ... :laughing:

You must be seeing something that I'm not as it won't be able to go very far with the valve attached and plumbed.

In all seriousness, I just thought it might make getting at the cylinder at some point easier, for one thing.

In order to finish the splitter I am going to have to flip the beam at least one more time ... unless I wanna do overhead welding while on my back on the wedge and the bar that ties it to the top and bottom flanges of the beam.

Being able to remove the table in that instance would be handy.

 

[oldtimer 66]

RSWYAN, I keep forgetting to mention this on your splitter build. I assume that the engine is air cooled. Which direction does the engine cooling air exhaust? You may want to turn / position the engine so that the engine cooling air does not exit onto the operator. On a warm day that just adds to the discomfort of running the splitter. Now on a cold day it just may feel good. I just wanted to mention that. Another thing, I to had the free gas at one time. The gas companies drilled around here in 1984. The gas lasted until 1997. Before that it was fuel oil and wood. Since them it has been propane and wood. During the free gas era it was no wood. LOL Later.

 

[rswyan]

RSWYAN, I keep forgetting to mention this on your splitter build. I assume that the engine is air cooled.

Correct.

Which direction does the engine cooling air exhaust?

Good question.

You may want to turn / position the engine so that the engine cooling air does not exit onto the operator. On a warm day that just adds to the discomfort of running the splitter. Now on a cold day it just may feel good. I just wanted to mention that.

Thanks - appreciate it.

I've positioned the engine so that the combustion exhaust exits away from the splitter, that being the most critical. I'll have to take a further look and see where and how the cooling air exits.

Another thing, I to had the free gas at one time. The gas companies drilled around here in 1984. The gas lasted until 1997. Before that it was fuel oil and wood. Since them it has been propane and wood. During the free gas era it was no wood. LOL Later.

Well (pun intended) I'm somewhat lucky in that the well on our property is an injection/extraction well that they use to stockpile natural gas in an old depleted field. It was put in to replace other wells that have been put out of service due to becoming less efficient/productive over time. Apparently they can only frac them so many times to regain efficiency before it is no longer cost-effective in terms of the gains they get back.

Based on my observations, these wells tend to last 30 years or more before they take them out of service ... so I should be covered for my lifetime ... but ya never know.

The polebarn has a gas line run to it ... so if I ever get that finished it will be heated with gas. The house has gas of course, but the furnace went ****-up ... so it's wood heat until we get that replaced.

 

[rswyan]

Got the steel picked up on Friday for the table grate and to finish the log lift. Still have to figure out the cylinder attachment points and pivot mechanism for that.

Got most of the steel cut for the table grate Saturday morning while I was doing other stuff up in the shop ... using 3/4" Schedule 40 pipe mostly. Should be able to get that welded together today, barring any unforeseen events.

My Surplus Center order with the valve for the log lift is due to be delivered tomorrow ... assuming the UPS guy can summon up the courage to put his tires on a little snow ...

Might see if I can get over to my friends and get the wedge milled today if he has any free time.

 

[newbury]

Once again it seems you never sleep.

But just wanted to comment on your use of the fluid for the splitter being the same as what you buy for the tractor.

Unless you just changed your tractor oil I'd suggest you drain your tractor (as soon as you get it working) and use it for your splitter. And of course fill your tractor up with new oil.

 

[newbury]

Once again it seems you never sleep.

But just wanted to comment on your use of the fluid for the splitter being the same as what you buy for the tractor.

Unless you just changed your tractor oil I'd suggest you drain your tractor (as soon as you get it working) and use it for your splitter. And of course fill your tractor up with new oil.

 

[rswyan]

Once again it seems you never sleep.

Sleeping is a vastly overrated activity ...

Kinda like eating: it's something ya have to do occasionally just to function, but I find it's no near as fun as making something happen ...

But just wanted to comment on your use of the fluid for the splitter being the same as what you buy for the tractor.

Unless you just changed your tractor oil I'd suggest you drain your tractor (as soon as you get it working) and use it for your splitter. And of course fill your tractor up with new oil.

:thumbsup:

Actually I did just recently change it.

However, with the axle problem on the tractor and a lot of the hydraulic fluid leaking out, I'm going to drain what's left in the kubota and use that (and what we were able to catch in buckets/bowls - probably 2 gallon) in the splitter initially and put the fresh stuff in the tractor.

Good idea - thanks !

 

[rswyan]

Last night I welded up the top portion of the table grate.

It's mostly 3/4" Schedule 40 pipe, except for the angled pieces that the two side rails sit on ... I made those by taking some 3/4" hot roll solid round and heating them up with the o/a torch and bending them in the vise:

Still have some bends to make on the pipe ... but I won't do that until I have the bottom mount for the table grate done and the entire thing mounted in place.

 

[rswyan]

Earlier today the UPS guy delivered the valve for the log lift and some hydraulic fittings ... so I worked on getting that mounted and plumbed in:

The log lift valve will have quick couplers on on the work ports, as I'm using the angle cylinder (and hopefully the hoses) from the landscape rake. The quick coupler on the valve inlet plumbing will be used to mount a 0-5000 psi liquid-filled pressure gauge I have that is currently mounted on my FEL valve: