Logsplitter 2.0

[rswyan]

Got the table top for the control valves cut and cleaned up from a piece of 10 ga. hot roll that was a drop ... rounded off the corners, smoothed the edges, and drilled the holes to mount the control valve for the cylinder for the pusher block. Made the table big enough to accommodate a second valve - which I don't have yet - for the log lift.

Still need to get the cylinder up on the beam to figure out the exact mounting location for the table.

The valve in the picture is a Prince logsplitter valve - think it's an LS3040 - it's a double detent - so it will extend or retract the cylinder unattended.

Will probably go with a Prince RD5000 series valve with Power Beyond for the log lift.

 

[rswyan]

Got the drop legs for the stub axles drilled with a hole saw. I then reamed them out with an adjustable reamer to clean them up a bit. Basically they're ready to weld together ... probably get that done later today.

The 2" 1/4" wall square tube for the legs came from a log lift that I had started to build 10 years ago ... and then decided that I might be going a little overkill material-wise ...

 

[rswyan]

This is a piece of the flange (one of two) from the H-Beam that will be used to "box" the beam in at the splitting wedge. It will also serve as mount for the "table grate" which will catch the the splits after the come off the wedge/beam.

A 5/8" hole was drilled for the bolt in the reinforcing plate and in a piece of 1/2" x 1 1/2" flat stock ... there will a nut welded on the backside of the reinforcing plate for the bolt to screw into.

I then drilled a 1" hole to accomodate a pin which will protrude out from the plate for the flat stock to rest on. The 1" (x 1") pin will be made from a 2" long drop of 1" cold roll solid rod I had lying around.

This will allow the "table grate" to fold up out of the way for transport.

 

[rswyan]

Thinking of using Tractor Supply's Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid in this thing ...

It's what I'm running in the 'bota ... and it would be nice to standardize.

Anyone have any input, one way or another ?

 

[LD1]

IF you want to spend an extra $5 a gallon or so.

Just plain Hyd oil is fine. Iso 46 or whatever. I think its about $5 cheaper than the Trans fluid, as you do not need the friction modifiers or special properties for extreme pressure gear on gear contact.

But nothing wrong with the trans stuff if thats what you are asking. IT should work just fine

 

[skylarkguy]

This build is pretty nice looking. Something to aspire to. I'd probably use the UTF as well, Just to have fewer types of fluid to buy.

 

[rswyan]

LD,

Thanks.

Yeah ... I'll go the extra $5 quid ... like skylark says it easier to standardize on a single fluid. Given the fluid capacity of the splitter, I'll probably buy two five gallon buckets ... and have a couple gallons or so left over for the next fluid change in the tractor/backhoe/whatever.

 

[rswyan]

This build is pretty nice looking. Something to aspire to. I'd probably use the UTF as well, Just to have fewer types of fluid to buy.

skylarkguy,

Thanks.

 

[rswyan]

Got the stub axles welded on to the drop legs last night, along with welding the nuts for the table grate mount onto the reinforcing plates. Also did some grinding on the splitting wedge ... still have a ways to go on that.

Dug out the Second Nature Whisper 1000 (aquarium) air pump and ran a hose down in the hydraulic reservoir last night to provide a little bubbly agitation. The reservoir will get drained today - so I can weld the stub axles/drop legs on, as well as welding on the mounting plate for the engine (which I have yet to make) ... be interesting to see what comes out of the reservoir.

The bushings on one of the wheels for the blade on the bandsaw are pooched ... thought I ordered the correct replacements from Grizzly, but it turns out that the unit Grizzly sells actually uses ball bearings (a common one thankfully) rather than bushings ... and I'm fairly sure that the guys that marketed the saw I have (Homier) do not carry spare parts.

So I'm gonna pull the wheel and see if we can't carve a couple of recesses to convert mine over to ball bearings ... PITA, but it should be much better if we can pull it off ...

 

[oldtimer 66]

RSWYAN, some where in this post I thought a table was mentioned, to be mounted beyond the wedge. I added a table Timberwolf to a friends splitter. Then I made the same later because he did not want to shuttle the table between locations. The Timberwolf design has those .38 thick wings that the table slides under and it clips as shown. My friend said that any wild wood heading down mainly using the 4 way wedge will be re-directed onto the table with out damaging the table. And you cannot just paint it you need to "Decal it Up" Just some info. Later.

 

[LD1]

LD,

Thanks.

Yeah ... I'll go the extra $5 quid ... like skylark says it easier to standardize on a single fluid. Given the fluid capacity of the splitter, I'll probably buy two five gallon buckets ... and have a couple gallons or so left over for the next fluid change in the tractor/backhoe/whatever.

Just go ahead and buy 3 buckets that way the first change is covered.

 

[Otto Syracuse]

I leave it connected to the tractor, whichever one I'm using at the time. I usually don't even put down the front leg.

Notice the rounds close on one side and the pallets on the other. From the pile to the splitter to the pallet with only occasionally getting up to move the rounds closer.

I had the leg down here as I was just about to move the tractor to push a bunch of rounds closer from the main pile.

[/QUOTE
Oldpilgram, I have the same splitter and stack my wood the same way as you, including the "Holz Housen". I am lucky enough to have my wife roll the logs to me while I sit and split. She stacks too, but I'll usually help out with that too.

Sorry to hijack your thread Rswyrn, you will have an awesome splitting machine!

 

[rswyan]

RSWYAN, some where in this post I thought a table was mentioned, to be mounted beyond the wedge. I added a table Timberwolf to a friends splitter. Then I made the same later because he did not want to shuttle the table between locations.

Very nice work ... :thumbsup:

The Timberwolf design has those .38 thick wings that the table slides under and it clips as shown. My friend said that any wild wood heading down mainly using the 4 way wedge will be re-directed onto the table with out damaging the table.

Interesting ... I'll have to see how my design for a flip-up table works out in practice ...

Not sure exactly how I would incorporate wings like that ... hafta go have a look and think about it some.

I was initially planning to use 3/4 Schedule 80 pipe for the table grate ... but my supplier was out of it ... so I decided to use 3/4 Schedule 40 ... but I haven't picked it up yet so I can go either way on it.

And you cannot just paint it you need to "Decal it Up"

LOL ... awesome ... :thumbsup:

Just some info. Later.

Good stuff ... thanks ... :thumbsup:

 

[rswyan]

Just go ahead and buy 3 buckets that way the first change is covered.

LOL ... there ya go ... maybe I can swing a deal on 5 buckets ... that way I'd have the 2000 hour change on the 'bota covered as well.

I was actually thinking about the first change on splitter last night ... figured I'd change out the filter after an initial run-in ... well before I changed out the fluid.

I've got an extra filter on hand I think. Need to take the reservoir down to the house and flush it real good with the hose after I finish with the acid bath.

I drained the vinegar last night so I could flip the reservoir around last night and do some welding ... it came out kinda yellow ... it will be interesting to see if the rust has settled to the bottom of the jugs when I head up there in a bit.

 

[rswyan]

Sorry to hijack your thread Rswyrn ...

Otto,

No worries ... no harm, no foul

... you will have an awesome splitting machine!

Thanks ... I hope so.

 

[rswyan]

Got those stub axles welded onto the drop legs last night. I let the axle protrude thru the 2" square tube about a 1/2" so I'd have some meat to weld to on the backside. Also filled in the bottom ... should be fairly secure I would think:

There's enough clearance I could go with a somewhat wider (but not taller) tire/wheel combo if I wanted to at some point in the future.

 

[rswyan]

I didn't want to just weld the 2" square tube legs directly onto the 1/4" wall of the reservoir, concentrating all the weight in a small area ... so I cut a couple of pieces from the drop of the H-Beam web (around 1/4" thick) and cut some holes with the torch to receive the 2" square tube ... in order to spread the forces over a wider area on thicker material:

Got some more done last night beyond that ... but I need to go take a couple of pics

 

[LD1]

Ah, should just buy a 55gal drum and be good for a few years.:laughing:

The build is progressing nicely:thumbsup:

 

[rswyan]

We haz legs ...

Got them attached last night ... still have a few more welds to do. Had four little triangular shaped pieces of 1/4 plate lying around so I decided to use those to gusset the front and rear of the leg tubes. Also plan to add a crossbeam of 1 1/2" x 3/16" wall square tube for reinforcement, to tie the two legs together.

 

[Loghomeguy]

Just want to weigh in on the "wedge/ram" vs "wedge/beam" thing. If the wedge is on the ram and you get it hung on a narly hunk of wood you can bring the ram back and let it "pop" the wood off of the wedge, using your handy dandy stops that you've welded in the appropriate spot. Otherwise you have smack the wood with a sledge hammer to knock it off of the wedge.