Logsplitter 2.0

[TomSeller]

Ran into a little situation the night before last: had some creosote/debris fall down into the 90 elbow that connects the chimney to the double-barrel wood stove in the shop, almost plugging it ... which prevented me from really getting a fire going. So I spent some of yesterday cleaning out the stove/chimney.
.

Yikes! Good to get that taken care of.

 

[rswyan]

Yikes! Good to get that taken care of.

Yup ... was a disaster just waiting to happen ...

 

[murphy1244]

I think you just saved your shop!

 

[rswyan]

I think you just saved your shop!

LOL ... probably true ...

 

[rswyan]

Got the H-Beam torched out yesterday for the reinforcements and some other stuff done. Should have some pics to post later today.

 

[rswyan]

Rear attachment point for the cylinder. The bar on the right is from the drop from the 1" plate the wedge was taken from and it will be used to tie the cylinder attachment block all the way through the H-Beam, top flange to bottom flange.

The drop was already almost cut through with a torch about 3/4 of it's length so I went ahead and finished the cut, planning on using the smaller piece (1 3/4" wide x 1" thick) for the reinforcement of the cylinder attachment block, and the larger piece for the same purpose for the splitting wedge:

Used a needle scaler initially to knock of the slag, and then used a burr in a die grinder and a grinding disc in an angle grinder to cut down any spots that needed to be removed. Still needs a little tweaking.

The cylinder attachment block has had the mill scale removed by soaking in vinegar.

The 3/8" x 5" x 8" plate under the attachment block will be welded to the top of the H-Beam and then the attachment block will be welded to it and the reinforcement bar that passes through the beam vertically.

 

[rswyan]

Front attachment point for the splitting wedge. The 3 1/2" wide piece of 1" plate on the right will be welded to the splitting wedge and then to the H-Beam, tying wedge to the beam from top to bottom:

 

[rswyan]

While cutting the holes for the cylinder and wedge attachment points I decided to finalize the length of the beam and go ahead and trim it. The beam is now 80" long, and extends past the wedge and cylinder attachment points 5" on either end.

The drop was then cut, separating the web from the top and bottom flanges. The flange on the left will be cut into two 8 1/4" long pieces which will be used to cap the ends of the beam. The flange on the right will be used for the "foot" on the foldable drop-down leg on the front of the splitter.

Based on the finalized length dimensions, the splitter will accept a 26" log.

 

[rswyan]

This is the log cradle/rest/stop ... it will be welded onto the beam on the opposite side from the log lift to prevent logs from rolling off the beam. It's made from 1/4" wall 2" square tube and a piece of 3 1/2" x 6" x 3/8" angle.

 

[rswyan]

This is the push block. It's made from a piece of 1" plate which is 12 1/4" tall, 10" wide across the top, and 7 1/2" wide across the bottom. It is welded to the slide on the bottom which, IIRC correctly (it's been about 10 years ) was made from a couple of pieces of 3/8" or 1/2" plate that I welded together.

 

[rswyan]

Backside of the push block showing the cylinder attachment block. The cylinder attachment block/point I think is a piece of 3/4" plate. There will be two more cylinder attachment blocks added (one on either side of the existing one) and a pin made from 1" cold-rolled that passes through all three to prevent the push block skewing on the beam.

 

[rswyan]

These are some slugs that were created when I was drilling holes thru some 1/4" plate with a hole saw.

Beyond using them to cap the open ends of pipe, I never could figure out much of a use for them.

 

[rswyan]

But I think I may have now :

Glad I kept them ...

 

[LD1]

I have seen alot of things used for grip on the push plate, but thats a first:laughing: Should work good though.

I have also seen expanded metal used also.

I got lucky and had 1" diamond plate that I used

 

[rswyan]

I have seen alot of things used for grip on the push plate, but thats a first :laughing:

... just recycling/repurposing what I got ...

Should work good though.

I would think so ... although I wish they were just a tad bit smaller diameter.

any resemblence is strictly coincidental ...

When I originally built the pusher block ten or so years ago I tried just running some bead with the MIG to make the "pads" ... wasn't happy with how they turned out ... so I cut/torched/ground them off.

I have also seen expanded metal used also.

Yup.

I got lucky and had 1" diamond plate that I used

That will work too :thumbsup:

 

[LD1]

Not sure where at in NE ohio you are, But I still have some of that diamond plate left. I was wrong though, its only 3/4" thick. ITs 8" wide also. Probably have 3' of it left. If you ever venture down this way, I'd hook you up.

Checked some of my other measurements too. My beam section is 96" long. But I extend 20" beyond the wedge for the table. And I can only clear a ~24" long. As the cylinder is 24" stroke and set it up to just touch.

 

[LD1]

Also, maybe I missed it, but I didnt see where you mentioned what size cylinder you are using? 4" I am assuming?

 

[rswyan]

Also, maybe I missed it, but I didnt see where you mentioned what size cylinder you are using? 4" I am assuming?

Initially I'll use the cylinder on my dump cart until I get a little more flush.

It's a 4" x 24" Eaton I sourced from Surplus Center ... I think it's either 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" rod.

 

[LD1]

4" should work just fine. There will be a few nasty pieces it wont split, but I dont like a 4.5" cylinder with an 11gpm pump. Just too slow.

Actually, if I could change anything (and I still might), would be going to either an autocycle valve, or double detent valve.

I let the safety police talk me out of double detent, but wish I hadnt.

 

[rswyan]

Not sure where at in NE ohio you are,

CAK (Akron/Canton)

But I still have some of that diamond plate left. I was wrong though, its only 3/4" thick. ITs 8" wide also. Probably have 3' of it left. If you ever venture down this way, I'd hook you up.

Appreciate the offer.

What part of central Ohio are you in ? (my oldest lives in Columbus)

Checked some of my other measurements too. My beam section is 96" long. But I extend 20" beyond the wedge for the table.

I opted to slice it off where I did because I wanted the steel from the H-Beam to use on the splitter for other stuff where it is more needed.

I already have a catch table built out of t-bar sitting down in the woods ... but I'll likely just build one out of small diameter pipe.

And I can only clear a ~24" long. As the cylinder is 24" stroke and set it up to just touch.

I'll have about a 2" gap ... but hey: ... that's what the next round is for, right ?