Loader valve issues

[skramer360]

I have a New Holland TC30 with an Ansung NTC30 loader on it. I bought them separately, not that it matters. When I got the loader the float function on the loader worked fine. I have noticed that the float no longer works and the raise and lower function is more jerky than it used to be. The boot around the lever is bad, but it does get stored inside now. I have a parts breakdown from Ansung for the loader, but it only lists the valve as a complete unit. Can I take the valve apart, is it likely some "O"rings that are bad? What should be my first step.

 

[oldnslo]

Two different possibilities come to mind potentially causing the stiff movement problem.
1) swivel or ball joints between the joy stick and directional valve spool require lubrication. These are under the rubber boot.
2) Detent and centering spring assembly are full of crud and or corroded. This is located at opposite end of the spool under a can or cover. Be very careful if you remove this cover since there may be loose parts that can fall out. There may be a drain hole in this cover that you could use to spray some penetrating oil onto this assembly without taking anything apart.

 

[skramer360]

I wanted to follow up. Last night I took the cap off the loader valve and there was indeed moisture and rust on the detente balls, cone and the sleeve that they fit in. I cleaned them all up and rotated the cone and sleeve because there was some wear from the rust, lubed it and it works perfectly now. I'd like to find a parts breakdown for the valve so I can get a new cone, sleeve and balls for it. I didn't see any obvious numbers on it anywhere. Is there a place I should look in particular?

 

[rScotty]

I wanted to follow up. Last night I took the cap off the loader valve and there was indeed moisture and rust on the detente balls, cone and the sleeve that they fit in. I cleaned them all up and rotated the cone and sleeve because there was some wear from the rust, lubed it and it works perfectly now. I'd like to find a parts breakdown for the valve so I can get a new cone, sleeve and balls for it. I didn't see any obvious numbers on it anywhere. Is there a place I should look in particular?

If you find a source, be sure to post it. I don't remember ever seeing separate parts listed for a hydrualic control valve.
rScotty

 

[oldnslo]

Skramer
If there is a nameplate on the valve? There is a chance you might be able to get those parts from the valve manufacturer.

 

[skramer360]

I did find out that it is a Besko HDM03/2 valve, and even found a parts breakdown for it, but I can't find anyone online that has any of the parts. This is the listing I found online somewhere.

 

[pblanton]

There is a rebuild kit available for this Besko HDM03/2 that you can buy, but it is $1,200

BESKO Valve Replace Kit - ANSCV112-HDM03

mowpart.com

Which is laughable.

My Besko HDM03/2 valve on my Branson 3520H has a broken spring in it that causes the joystick to not center properly. This causes my FEL bucket to slowly curl up until it hits the stops. I have "fixed" it with a bungee cord from the botton of the joystick to a point on the tractor below the valve, but I did want to rebuild the valve until I saw the price.

Instead, I bought a Vevor Chinese knock-off joystick valve on Amazon for $110 but I am keeping the Besko and may try to source a spring from somewhere else. I have used lots of other Vevor parts, including a submersible well pump, and a 3400 PSI pressure washer, and have had no trouble with them so I am hoping for the same result with the hydraulic valve.

 

[Gregster613]

There is a rebuild kit available for this Besko HDM03/2 that you can buy, but it is $1,200

BESKO Valve Replace Kit - ANSCV112-HDM03

mowpart.com

Which is laughable.

My Besko HDM03/2 valve on my Branson 3520H has a broken spring in it that causes the joystick to not center properly. This causes my FEL bucket to slowly curl up until it hits the stops. I have "fixed" it with a bungee cord from the botton of the joystick to a point on the tractor below the valve, but I did want to rebuild the valve until I saw the price.

Instead, I bought a Vevor Chinese knock-off joystick valve on Amazon for $110 but I am keeping the Besko and may try to source a spring from somewhere else. I have used lots of other Vevor parts, including a submersible well pump, and a 3400 PSI pressure washer, and have had no trouble with them so I am hoping for the same result with the hydraulic valve.

I'll bet that your replacement valve cost less or at least as much as the rebuild kit? i have never heard of a rebuild kit for loader valves. They are internal spools machined to "exactly" fit the insides of the valve they belong to and are not - to my knowledge - rebuildable. It's usually simplest to just replace the problem valve. That's what I did when my 273 loader valve began giving troubles in curl and dump. YMMV however.

 

[dieselscout80]

I'll bet that your replacement valve cost less or at least as much as the rebuild kit? i have never heard of a rebuild kit for loader valves. They are internal spools machined to "exactly" fit the insides of the valve they belong to and are not - to my knowledge - rebuildable. It's usually simplest to just replace the problem valve. That's what I did when my 273 loader valve began giving troubles in curl and dump. YMMV however.

I found that to be true with the valve on my TC45DA. The only rebuild able parts were the detents and the joystick connections to the spools.