Loader stuck in air Deere 4610

[turboviking]

Hello! I have a JD 4610 with factory installed rear hydraulics - and it is switched electronically with a rocker switch on the right operator's console panel. Some time back a problem started that after mowing or doing work with the rear hydraulics only, the front wouldn't re-engage. It wants to and when the switch is pressed the rear is disabled (top and tilt) but the front loader won't work. The tilt function works fine, but the raise and lower won't. I've checked wiring, and such, but now I'm stuck with the loader in the air and it won't come down. It WANTS to do something and will go up and down about an inch or two, but that is it.

Any idears? Anyone really understand this setup and what valves / solenoids etc. do what?

Thanks in advance.

Troy

 

[xrjohndeere]

I have not got the electronic set up but something similar happened on my 4520. Did you by chance recently remove the loader? I removed mine one time and got the hoses crossed and it did the same thing. Hope that helps. Mark.

 

[J_J]

Reseat the QD's.

 

[Oldtractorfixer]

VERY IMPORTANT!!!! Be sure to support the loader before you start working with QD's. It could fall on you and hurt you very badly.

 

[SPYDERLK]

VERY IMPORTANT!!!! Be sure to support the loader before you start working with QD's. It could fall on you and hurt you very badly.

Yes, with it in the air there will be pressure on the fluid in the lines. It may not fall because it should be captured automatically as the QD is released, but that pressure from supporting the weight will surely prevent re connection.
larry

 

[J_J]

Are your loader valves solenoid operated or manual?

If they are solenoid operated, you could apply 12 v to the solenoid .

Some solenoid valves also have a manual way to move the plunger.

 

[turboviking]

Hello, it is solenoid operated. I see only one solenoid. I plan to remove it and check the condition - but still seeking someone who understands and can explain the design of this hydraulic circuit. HUGS -
Troy

 

[turboviking]

I assume the QDs are quick disconnects. I can do that and will. Thanks for this suggestion.

Troy

 

[turboviking]

I assume the QDs are quick disconnects. I can do that and will. Thanks for this suggestion.

Troy

 

[turboviking]

No, Mark, loader has not been off for some time. Thanks

 

[plowindeeper]

Some thing to try take some PB Blaster/WD-40 and spray the pistons on the joystick. I have one to stick before

 

[turboviking]

I took apart and plugged back in and the net result was a small loss of fluid, as would be expected. Did not help. Hugs - Troy

 

[turboviking]

It works for the rear just fine, just not the raise or lower of loader when front is selected

 

[turboviking]

The solenoid works and moves its piston a quarter of an inch or so. Seems clean and in good shape with no rust or other debris. Troy

 

[npalen]

Did you ever get your loader working? The 1/4" movement you mentioned doesn't seem like enough for a valve spool. Bad solenoid?

 

[turboviking]

Hello, and thanks for asking. Took all four of the # 21 spools out and cleaned well. All were clean, free of rust, and seemed in good condition per o-rings, etc. I swapped the two that control loader raise and lower. Re-assembled and first time bucket has worked in weeks! Then I switched to the rear and used it for a bit and switched back. URRG no front raise/lower again. I then swapped the A and C valves and it seems fine, I can switch back to front and loader still works. I now suspect a weak return spring in C spool (#21) but seems OK in its current placement.*

My now theory is that the solenoid allows the valve to be fully pressurized activating all spools at the same time for rear operation, and if the loader is up, and is exerting pressure, the changing of the switch back dumps pressure, but the spring that returns the spool to front operation is weak. I think I will eventually need a part # 21 but for now it is a good opportunity to lube, clean, and grease with silicon wire connectors and see how she flies. THANK EVERYONE who has helped. I feel better today and feel I know my tractor a lot better. HUGS! - From Mariposa - Troy and happy JD 4610*

Also, on this solenoid, which is really a Sauer Danfoss product, the 1/4 inch movement is the norm.

 

[J_J]

You really should not be shifting spools as they were selected for the best fit.

A lot of solenoids have a manual mode whereby you push on the end of the solenoid core pin to move the spool.

High back pressure sometimes prevents a spool from moving.

 

[turboviking]

Hello, and thank you. I could not see any difference in those 4 spools. Maybe the Sauer Danfoss product is different than a JD or other factory spool. At this time, I am going to monitor it to watch for any performance problem. I am pretty convinced that spool "C" was troublesome and got worse, as the tilt on the rear would bleed down during mowing and I would have to tap the joystick periodically to keep the deck level. Won't know if that is fixed until mowing season, but for now all seems to be working fine, especially the loader, which did not work at all.

Thanks for that advice, JJ - I will monitor for any problem.

 

[turboviking]

Oh, also JJ, this diverter valve has only electronic changing function, no manual operation of any kind. If it goes south, the tractor is out of business except for joy rides and maybe not even that. - Troy

 

[kennyd]

You did fine Troy, these are not fitted spools like those in a regular valve. They all share the same part number and are replaceable.