Lincoln AC225

[sw99]

Just picked up a used one for $100. Maybe 5 years old. Has a really nice 25' SO cord already installed and a heavy duty custom made steel cart. I burned a few 6013 rods and tried a couple 6011's. I figured for $100 I cant go wrong. I have always wanted a stick welder for the farm repairs.

 

[arkydog]

great deal. around here they go for 150 on craigslist

 

[woody]

I've got one of those tombstone welders and its lasted for years about 25 years or more. sounds like a good deal

 

[Budweiser John]

I've got one of those tombstone welders and its lasted for years about 25 years or more. sounds like a good deal

Mine's 45 years old and still burning rods.
My dad gave it to me aa Christmas gift and I think at the time they sold for $99.95.

 

[Gary Fowler]

My Dad bought one in 1967 and it sat outside in the weather everyday. It was working fine when he died in 1982 and my brother took it to his house. It needed new welding leads since the insulation was peeling off, but the machine is still in his shop and working as far as I know. Very tough machines, at least the old ones were, I don't know if the new ones are built to the same quality.

 

[gwdixon]

Just to pile on, I have had one for about 30 years. It is great for just about all farm projects. Just make sure you use AC rated rods to make things work better. The only problem I've had is that the amp selector gets very stiff after many years. It needs to be taken apart and things freed up.

Then, about 15 years ago, I got the same welder in AC/DC configuration. Wow, it is nice to weld with DC. The amp selector on it is also stiff.

Finally, 5 years ago, I got a DC inverter welder. Now those are cream-of-the-crop devices. Light, great arc, butter smooth welds (when set correctly). The welders are an Everlast PA200 and, later, a Everlast PA300. A member on here, Shield Arc, convinced me to buy the 300 at a fantastic price. Very apprecative.

 

[Shaneard]

My dad has one and he has had it for at least 40+ years, never missed a beat. I have one I bought for $100 as well and use it every now and then.

 

[muddstopper]

My first welder was a homemade ac welder. my dad used a old power transformer off a power pole to make it. I had three setting Hot, hotter and He!!fire. In about 1980, I bought a tombstone ac/dc. Kept it covered under a tarp out side for first ten years I owned it. On dc, I could weld car sheet metal. I traded it to my BIL for a old SA200, which is still setting in my shop, or I should say scattered on a shelf in the shop, waiting for me to put it back together. best welder I ever used, I like it better than my current Idealarc 250/250 machine. It wont do what the idealarc will, but for everyday repairs those machines are as good as it gets. And yea, those selector switchs get a little stiff over the years.

 

[sw99]

Thanks folks. Sounds like I should be really happy with this machine.

 

[sw99]

For the life of me I cant strike the arc with the 6011's. Not sure how old these rods are but maybe they have some moisture in them. The container had a rotted out rubber sealing ring. I'll buy some fresh ones and give them a shot. I wish my shop had heat, I want to make a cart for my mig.

 

[gwdixon]

For the life of me I cant strike the arc with the 6011's. Not sure how old these rods are but maybe they have some moisture in them. The container had a rotted out rubber sealing ring. I'll buy some fresh ones and give them a shot. I wish my shop had heat, I want to make a cart for my mig.

Actually, 6011 rods are pretty tough and not affected by moisture. In fact, they are supposed to be a bit "wet" - like humid conditions. They might be good practice rods since old welding teachers used to make students weld with coat hanger wire. "If you can weld with coat hangers, you can weld with anything." (I can't!)

Not saying that it isn't the rods or the flux but if your machine ran 6013 just fine then fresh 6011 might be what is needed.

While you are buying, try some 7014 or 7018AC. Much prettier welds, stronger, not as much splatter, but they do require more amps for the size.

EDIT: Just for giggles, what was the amp setting used for the 6011 and what rod diameter?

 

[woody]

Thanks folks. Sounds like I should be really happy with this machine.

I have burn a lot of 7018 with mine and as far as the selector getting stiff make it a habit to move it back and forth before you begin to weld they do get stiff and more so if never moved.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Any AC machine is hard to start a rod. Scratch to start a rod burning takes some time to learn since the AC machine requires you to hold a longer arc than DC. When scratching the rod to begin the arc, it will many times lead to it sticking. This is troublesome but easily overcome with practice. Start by striking the rod in an arc rather than a horizontal drag motion. You want to briefly make contact but immediately bring the rod up a bit so that it doesn't stick and immediately starts the arc process with the rod about 1/8" away from the metal. Slowly then bring the rod back to about 1/16" from the puddle after the arc has started.

 

[Shaneard]

I remember welding for my first time at 10 years old with dads buzzbox (Lincoln AC225) we call it, I ask him how close do I get the rod as I was welding, he said "as close as you can without it sticking". It was game on after that and he had to buy more 6013 rods than ever before, lol.

 

[sw99]

what was the amp setting used for the 6011 and what rod diameter?

IIRC, I was using 1/8 plate and tried 75 - 120 amps. I started low and moved up in amperage. Zero luck... Kept sticking to the material. 6013 was just fine.

 

[GLyford]

What is the rod diameter, 1/8? 3/32?

If you pick up more rods, 6013 and 7014 should both be pretty easy to run. 7018AC is a little fussier, and burns back inside the flux as it runs; on restrikes you will need to break the flux away from the tip a little, some people nip it with pliers, others give it a light tap on concrete or a brick on/near the work surface. While in theory the non-AC versions 7018 can be run on AC, it can be frustrating especially if you haven't welded much, the AC versions are easier to keep the arc going.

 

[Shield Arc]

I have trouble with my 6010 rods drying out. So I dip them in water, and let air dry for a day or two. Then they are good as new. Far as 6011 I really like Hobart's 335A 6011. Very smooth arc to them.

 

[ovrszd]

Nice purchase. Bullet proof welders.

Back when I was raising kids and poor I had one. I didn't have a cutting torch. Crank up the buzz box and burn metal in two with 6013 rod.

 

[sw99]

I have looking at the inexpensive DC inverter stick welders. Would there be any real advantage switching to one of those versus this AC unit? I have my Hobart 210 MVP for most of the work I do. So I'm just trying to do what makes the most sense. Sounds like the DC units are easier to use and more versatile.

 

[k0ua]

I have looking at the inexpensive DC inverter stick welders. Would there be any real advantage switching to one of those versus this AC unit? I have my Hobart 210 MVP for most of the work I do. So I'm just trying to do what makes the most sense. Sounds like the DC units are easier to use and more versatile.

They are. I sold my AC225 when I got my little Everlast DC inverter unit. Not to mention I can sling it over my shoulder (strap is included ) and carry it around. I never could carry around my AC225, but I did put it on wheels with a Harbor freight dolly . The old AC225 is not a bad welder and I got a lot of use out of it, but I prefer the ease of storage, the ease of mobility, the ease of use and the pretty and smooth arc with my DC inverter rig. I also use it to scratch start TIG with. With a DC welder you are already half way to having a simple TIG rig. Just add a 17V TIG torch and argon cylinder and simple regulator and you are in the TIG business.