Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[Hilbilly]

I pulled the belt cover and checked the idler. Looked out of alignment to me (first pic). So I took it into the shop and used the press to bend the support plate slightly (second pic). Back and forth a few times until I got the alignment looking good (third pic). Back together and then a trial run. After 45 minutes of cutting some light grass, the temps on the idler and belts were up to 240*. Seems too hot to me but it was a little cooler than before. There was also what appears to be some liquid grease in the bottom of the idler (fourth pic). Probably not a good sign.

 

[TheFarmerInAdell]

I was going to suggest checking the alignment of the idle pulley too.

K5lwq, is there enough slop in the fit so you can put it in the lower set of holes up front and the upper in the back? That would move the roller lower.

That would actually exaggerate the issue. The rear hole becomes a pivot point. With the rear bolt in the top hole and front in the bottom the roller will be lower causing an even higher cut than with both in the top holes (roller in low position/long cut). And the reverse would be a lower cut than in the bottom holes (roller in high position/short cut). The problem is: roller low = too long cut, roller high = too short cut. Something in between is the desired result.

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

I pulled the belt cover and checked the idler. Looked out of alignment to me (first pic). So I took it into the shop and used the press to bend the support plate slightly (second pic). Back and forth a few times until I got the alignment looking good (third pic). Back together and then a trial run. After 45 minutes of cutting some light grass, the temps on the idler and belts were up to 240*. Seems too hot to me but it was a little cooler than before. There was also what appears to be some liquid grease in the bottom of the idler (fourth pic). Probably not a good sign.

Why not just replace the bearings at this point. Should be cheap.

 

[K5lwq]

That would actually exaggerate the issue. The rear hole becomes a pivot point. With the rear bolt in the top hole and front in the bottom the roller will be lower causing an even higher cut than with both in the top holes (roller in low position/long cut). And the reverse would be a lower cut than in the bottom holes (roller in high position/short cut). The problem is: roller low = too long cut, roller high = too short cut. Something in between is the desired result.

This exactly correct. I should have a longer top link somewhere. I will find it and give that a try this weekend. If that does not get us where we want, I will add new holes in frame and bracket. I can't imagine a longer top link not solving this issue.

Thanks to all of y'all for your help!

 

[Hilbilly]

Why not just replace the bearings at this point. Should be cheap.

There is no signs of the bearings being bad but I might as well replace them since nothing else is working. The only other thing I can think of is that the belts are tensioned wrong. These bearings will likely be a PITA to replace. I'm pretty sure they are pressed on.

 

[ericm979]

This guy made videos showing how to work on Woodmaxx flails. Here's his video on replacing the idler bearing: WoodMaxx FLAIL MOWER - idler pulley bearing Replacement and maintenance - YouTube

 

[Hilbilly]

This guy made videos showing how to work on Woodmaxx flails. Here's his video on replacing the idler bearing: WoodMaxx FLAIL MOWER - idler pulley bearing Replacement and maintenance - YouTube

Excellent and thanks for that. I'm sure it will help a lot when I get back to this.

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

There is no signs of the bearings being bad but I might as well replace them since nothing else is working. The only other thing I can think of is that the belts are tensioned wrong. These bearings will likely be a PITA to replace. I'm pretty sure they are pressed on.

You got a press. You are one up on me. Could have used one the other day too.

Edit: parts diagram shows that assembly is circliped together so disassembly should be easy.

 

[arto98607]

I pulled the belt cover and checked the idler. Looked out of alignment to me (first pic). So I took it into the shop and used the press to bend the support plate slightly (second pic). Back and forth a few times until I got the alignment looking good (third pic). Back together and then a trial run. After 45 minutes of cutting some light grass, the temps on the idler and belts were up to 240*. Seems too hot to me but it was a little cooler than before. There was also what appears to be some liquid grease in the bottom of the idler (fourth pic). Probably not a good sign.
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I agree that sounds like a pretty high idler pulley temperature.


Just an observation:

I am just in process of repairing idler pulley on my (new to me) Ford 917L and it is noticeable how the idler looks like it's pretty small diameter in the Caroni.
The 917L idler had failed due to worn out single row sealed ball bearing which was designed to be non-replaceable.

The OD in 917L idler is 4 1/4 inches which I thought was pretty small until I had a look at your photos!


Probably the smaller the diameter the more bending of the belt IE. more heat.



917L idler:

 

[Hilbilly]

You got a press. You are one up on me. Could have used one the other day too.

Edit: parts diagram shows that assembly is circliped together so disassembly should be easy.

There are actually 2 clips and I had both off when I was checking the idler but it wouldn't budge even with some persuasive tapping. I will use a puller when I get back to this. It's going to be a while though, as my current focus is to get ready to go camping and fishing for a couple of weeks. Way more fun than fixing things.