Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[docsfarm]

Finally had a chance to mow a bit during the day with the Fm4188. Just thought I'd post a bit more feedback.
Mows very nicely. Tackled lots of 1-2" multiflora rose and various other bushes and briars without issue. Occasionally I needed a second pass on some of the big stud to get it fully mulched. I took a couple pictures early on and then forgot to take any more. Doh!!!
I really like it. It is very heavy! I'm glad I have a beefy tractor! I like the offset. I wasn't sure I'd like it. Now I need to shift it further. It uses a very easy to use hand crank to shift it rather than bolting and unbolting the mount. I'd buy a hydraulic shift kit for it tomorrow if they made one. I wish they did.... if anyone knows of one that would work, let me know. I've heard the Landpride is a maschioto (sp?) and I emailed their contact page but never heard anything back.
If you have questions about the mower feel free to ask. I'm happy with it thus far!

 

[sidecarist]

Finally had a chance to mow a bit during the day with the Fm4188. Just thought I'd post a bit more feedback.
Mows very nicely. Tackled lots of 1-2" multiflora rose and various other bushes and briars without issue. Occasionally I needed a second pass on some of the big stud to get it fully mulched. I took a couple pictures early on and then forgot to take any more. Doh!!!
I really like it. It is very heavy! I'm glad I have a beefy tractor! I like the offset. I wasn't sure I'd like it. Now I need to shift it further. It uses a very easy to use hand crank to shift it rather than bolting and unbolting the mount. I'd buy a hydraulic shift kit for it tomorrow if they made one. I wish they did.... if anyone knows of one that would work, let me know. I've heard the Landpride is a maschioto (sp?) and I emailed their contact page but never heard anything back.
If you have questions about the mower feel free to ask. I'm happy with it thus far!

I'm curious, did you mow with the rear door open, or closed? It's so dry in my part of TN I don't have any heavy growth to mow.

 

[Lnk]

Any rain in the forecast sidecarist? My neighbors are saying things are really dry there. I am just west of 75 tween Knox and Chat. We could really use some rain as it is like a tinder box. I am in the Northeast right now and have plenty. Would like to send some down....

To keep on topic, would like to use my flail so need things to grow...

LNK

 

[docsfarm]

I mowed with the door closed. Because of the terrain I was on, I didn't go fast. But it wasn't a problem at all. I will have to seem how it does on 6+ foot tall switch grass. Might need the open door then.
I'm impressed with what it handles which is why I got this particular mower. It is rated for 2" material.

 

[sidecarist]

Any rain in the forecast sidecarist? My neighbors are saying things are really dry there. I am just west of 75 tween Knox and Chat. We could really use some rain as it is like a tinder box. I am in the Northeast right now and have plenty. Would like to send some down....

To keep on topic, would like to use my flail so need things to grow...

LNK

No rain of any significance... Its scary dry here. Its so dry I have to water my partial post holes to complete them!

I'm up on the plateau north of Dayton. I have mowed a bit but it hardly seems worth it. What I have to do isn't even a challenge for the mower.

 

[sidecarist]

View attachment 486875View attachment 486876View attachment 486877View attachment 486878
I mowed with the door closed. Because of the terrain I was on, I didn't go fast. But it wasn't a problem at all. I will have to seem how it does on 6+ foot tall switch grass. Might need the open door then.
I'm impressed with what it handles which is why I got this particular mower. It is rated for 2" material.

Nice, I probably won't have anything that challenging until next summer. Its just too dry here for much to grow.

 

[docsfarm]

Had opportunity to use the trash door.... �� Unfortunately it was to use it to remove a huge amount of fencing wire that I hit. I saw it and let off the go just a split second too late. It shut the tractor right down. Not a little bit of wire. The previous owners must have piled it there. I estimate 50 feet of it at least. Took an hour and a half to remove. But wow, having that door was a life saver!!!

The before picture doesn't show all the wire under the grass. The after picture is just a portion of what I removed!!!
Back up and running without issue.

 

[JimCan]

Folks, I am unable to get my flail to oivot back onto the roller; my top link will not extend far enough to rocker the flail rearward. I read that, rather than running level, if you raise the nose of the flail you can cut a little taller than the 'standard'. Any thoughts?

Jim

 

[docsfarm]

Do you have a picture of it hooked to the tractor? Can you just get a longer top link?

 

[sidecarist]

On my woodman they recommend a 15 degree nose up angle. I can barely get it level, with my top link shortened up. but have plenty of length to get it nose up.

I would guess the only way to do it is for you to buy a longer top link.

 

[kco]

JimCan, is buying a longer top link a possible solution? I had to do that for my flail because I use a Pat's Easy Hitch that moves implements 4" farther out from the tractor. The longest cat 1 top link (I think 20 or 22" barrel) would not work. However, the longest cat 2 top link added a total of 4". I believe the barrel was the same length but the threaded ends were each 2" longer. I used cat 2 to 1 bushings to adapt it to the tractor. I had to grind down the tractor end of the top link and bushing so they would fit in the tractor end. I also drilled and tapped a couple of holes to add set screws to keep the tractor end bushing in place.

Here is a photo:

 

[DieselBound]

Couldn't one extend the top link attachment point from/on the flail (via welding/bolting on some metal)?

Seems like, maybe, the lower link arms might be long. If this were some off-brand tractor I'd think it a tractor issue, but this is a JD (well, yeah, JD does some things differently).

Might want to talk to the flail manufacturer/vendor to see what they know to be the best solution.

kco, that's some great problem solving! :thumbsup:

 

[sidecarist]

I know on most tractors that the upper link mount on the tractor is bolted on, maybe it could be spaced out with a steel block.

I still think it would be best to buy a longer link. it would also provide some convienence as the link would stay with the mower and always be the correct length.

 

[DieselBound]

I know on most tractors that the upper link mount on the tractor is bolted on, maybe it could be spaced out with a steel block.

I still think it would be best to buy a longer link. it would also provide some convienence as the link would stay with the mower and always be the correct length.

Yeah, I agree.

Also brings up (the obvious?) point that there are generally multiple tractor-side mount points/holes for the top link. I'd be surprised if JimCan isn't aware of this, but figured I'd toss it out. Might not even help (or be correct?).

 

[CADplans]

Folks, I am unable to get my flail to pivot back onto the roller; my top link will not extend far enough to rocker the flail rearward. I read that, rather than running level, if you raise the nose of the flail you can cut a little taller than the 'standard'. Any thoughts?

Jim

Hmmmm,,, are you trying to "push" the mower back with the top link,,,
when you should be lifting the front of the flail with the three point hitch arms?

With my mower, during mowing, I could remove the top link and operate properly.
The TL is only in play during transport.

 

[IslandTractor]

Time for a properly sized hydraulic topping lift. Once you've used one you'll wonder how you ever managed without. It makes adjusting the proper angle trivial and is very useful for changing blades/clevises (raise 3PT, shorten topping lift and you have MUCH better access).

Note that these photos were taken when my mower was pretty new and before I figured out that the dealer had put the topping lift tower on backwards. Now corrected. The slot in the topping lift tower should be parallel to the ground not angled. Simple confusion as the bolt pattern allows it to be installed backwards.

 

[DieselBound]

Yes, as IT suggests, hydraulic top links are great!

I'm wondering, however, whether those front skids on the flail can't be dropped down further in order to increase the rake.

 

[JimCan]

I'll get a pic this week... Oddly, the only XL top link (unknown exact extended length) is available at Tractor Supply - out of stock. I was also thinking yesterday, if I rocker'd the weight of the mower back onto the roller - would the bearings support all that weight? ...maybe lower the skids.

Jim

 

[Xfaxman]

Here is another way to extend the top link.

 

[leonz]

Had opportunity to use the trash door.... �� Unfortunately it was to use it to remove a huge amount of fencing wire that I hit. I saw it and let off the go just a split second too late. It shut the tractor right down. Not a little bit of wire. The previous owners must have piled it there. I estimate 50 feet of it at least. Took an hour and a half to remove. But wow, having that door was a life saver!!!
View attachment 487010View attachment 487011
The before picture doesn't show all the wire under the grass. The after picture is just a portion of what I removed!!!
Back up and running without issue.

Hello Docsfarm,

I am glad you did not have to deal with the barbed wire snakes and the wire removal job went well.