Many of us with many years of flail mower ownership and knowledge
regarding flail mowers their operation and knife type have tried to help you with this.
This specific flail mower rotors rotation being counterclockwise as you have stated
will affect the quality of cut with the one piece scoop blades which I have gone
into extensive detail on many occasions for owners of flail mowers with the scoop
one piece knives.
the scoop knives counterclockwise rotation has the cutting edge coming behind the material
the flail mower user wishes to cut down and the the material will flood the front of the flail
mowers shroud when the portion of it that is cut is carried over the flail mower rotor and
will not be recut.
scoop knives do not recut material they cut and carry it over the flail mower rotor and anything
left in its path is dimply carried over again and dropped on the ground.
If you visit the Hiniker home page and look at the flail shredders with the scoop knive option it explains it very well.
The number of times a plot or area is cut will also affect how the flail mower with the scoop
knive will cut the grass or brush and the quality of finish.
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Finally someone that knows what they are talking about.
I totally agree in regards to the HP required and plugging effect of different knife types. I'm using the one piece (Flailmaster Rough Cut) blades. After cutting heavy Fescue grass in waterways my blades all have grass hanging on them or plug up as you described.
I've played with this cutter long enough to know I'm getting the best cut possible with the equipment I have. If I keep up, meaning cut the roadbanks every 2 weeks or so, it provides a good quality cut. If I try to cut tall thick grass the cut quality diminishes and the HP requirement sky rockets. So I'll use it where it works good and use the rotary cutter where it doesn't.
Thanks for the reply Arc weld.