Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[texbaylea]

Yeah, it DOES come on two pallets nailed together.
&
Yeah, the pallet fork entry is at the end (not side), so it probably gets a bit tippy on 4 ft or 4 1/2 ft forks.
(-:

When mine was delivered I had the driver turn it around so that the drive end of the mower was toward the tractor. I did not find it to be tippy with my 4' forks. I did lower it almost to the ground to move it however.

Vernon

 

[SPYDERLK]

The set up went well enough.
I ran into a slight problem with the PTO shaft. It's about 6" too long.
What's with that?
I went back to do more reading and the Caroni manual said not to shorten the shaft. However, the manufacturers manual gives detailed instructions on how to shorten the shaft. I will take off about 4" from each side of the shaft, to give me some play.
Any opinions or comments?

4" from each side will leave it about 2" too long. Subtractions from collapsed length do not add. The change will be the smaller of the 2 cuts, if different.
larry

 

[Foozle]

The set up went well enough. I spent about 30 minuted reading the paperwork before I put it together.
I ran into a slight problem with the PTO shaft. It's about 6" too long.
What's with that?
I went back to do more reading and the Caroni manual said not to shorten the shaft. However, the manufacturers manual gives detailed instructions on how to shorten the shaft. I will take off about 4" from each side of the shaft, to give me some play.
BTW, my setup area is level ground and the top link is set correctly.

Any opinions or comments?

I also received my new Caroni TM1900 this week. I had my Kubota dealer install it so can't speak to the shaft length issue but can maybe ask them if they had to shorten. Have you tried adjusting the shoe/skid yet? I tried today and when I removed the bolts and slid the skid down to the next position, the bolt holes didn't line up quite right. I replaced the way they were originally, but even those were not aligned perfectly and had to get all 4 bolts started and kind of use the wrench to draw them into alignment. If you get a chance I'd be interested to see if your unit has the same issue since it probably arrived in the same shipment as mine did.

I tried mine out a bit today on some tall hay field grass and it seemed to work well. I did have the oil bubble out a bit as many have reported. My lawn grass isn't long enough yet to judge how it does on finish mowing - maybe in a week I can report back on that. I did have to lower the roller from the factory setting to keep it from scraping the ground when in the down position.

Thanks,

Dave

 

[Eagleview]

Just a thing to look out for , check that the PTO shaft has been pulled apart and greased . The dealer delivered my tractor and mower already hooked up but did not grease the shaft . It broke the gearbox mounting bolts off in 20 minutes . As the mower was articulating over some uneven ground while i was trying it out the shaft could not telescope fast enough without the grease , resulting in the broken bolts . Do'nt trust anyone......

 

[Eagleview]

The set up went well enough. I spent about 30 minuted reading the paperwork before I put it together.
I ran into a slight problem with the PTO shaft. It's about 6" too long.
What's with that?
I went back to do more reading and the Caroni manual said not to shorten the shaft. However, the manufacturers manual gives detailed instructions on how to shorten the shaft. I will take off about 4" from each side of the shaft, to give me some play.
BTW, my setup area is level ground and the top link is set correctly.

Any opinions or comments?

You must make it short enough so it can not only be raised full height with the linkage but also so that it can articulate fully forward when going over dips etc but not too short that it will come apart when completely lowered over an embankment .

 

[scuvnut]

Ok all, I've been reading this thread through and through and took the plunge. Today, I picked up a 2003 New Holland 91 inch 918H Flail Mower. The unit was purchased in 2003, used 5 hours and then placed in a barn. It basically new. I was able to get it for $2500.

They loaded it with a skid steer onto my 14 trailer, and off I went. When I got home, I pulled my NH TC40DA to the side, lowered the bucket into the trailer, chained it to the Flail Mower, lifted it off the bed of the trailer and pulled the truck/trailer forward, then, gently lowered it to the ground. All systems go so far. I hooked it up to the 3 point hitch and backed it to my garage bay and greased it up. I leveled the unit from side to side and then used the top link to be sure the front was slightly higher than the rear.

Figured I'd start in the back field, so if I did any damage to the lawn, it would be less likely to be seen. I lowered the three point hitch and put it within the float range. So far, so good.

I was immediately very impressed with the cut but realized I had to adjust the height so I pulled back to the garage. Air tools made the job go rather quickly. Back to the field. Cutting went well and my better half said it looked like a golf course after a few passes. Was having so much fun, I kept going and felt braver so I moved up toward the house and starting taking out large section of the lawn.

So now, I have questions. I read through the first 20 pages of this thread again, and feel it appropriate to pose the following so those who have used Flails for a while can provide some input:

1. Skid Shoes - what is the correct height of these relative to the rear roller? I have changing terrain in the the field and when going up hill, the skid shoes seem to slightly dig into the ground. Should the roller be lower than the skid shoes? Can I simply remove the skid shoes? Any input is appreciated.

2. The unit is currently set to be pretty much centered. This means the driveshaft is a bit offset. It seems I should move the setup so that the unit is offset - the driveshaft would be straight and it would make mowing under trees, along the properly line, easier. Feedback?

3. Even in float, when I come to the top of the a hill and then over it (not a huge hill, but changing terrain), seem the mower losses contact with the ground and leaves some uncut grass. Am I doing something wrong here? Seems this did not happen with my rotary mower. Contrary to this, when I come to the low point and start to head up, some scalping occurs. Do I have something set wrong?

4. There is a metal piece on the back of the mower, just above the roller. I believe it may be called a scalper, but now sure. Irregardless of the name, there is some adjustment that I can make to it. I can lower it to virtually touch the roller, or raise it to leave a slight gap. What is this adjustment for and what is your experiences in where it should be set?

Thank you for taking the time to review this post and I appreciate the information any of you experienced flail mower users can provide.

 

[Nuru]

Actually, I am gonna go for it today, so I will be highly interested in the responses you get I am also Starting in the back.

OBTW, great price on what i hear is actually a good flail.

 

[Eagleview]

1/ The skid shoes are mainly to help stop scalping when the mower goes over a bump which would normaly see the knives hit the ground until the roller starts to climb the bump and take the weight .

2/ This is your choice but check to make sure it is still covering your wheel tracks . While it is covering your tracks it is mowing the long grass that the left wheel is pushing down as it goes . When the left wheel is uncovered it pushes the grass down and sideways . When you come around again that grass is on your right and laying over the cut grass . You then need to go further over pre cut grass just to get the long grass heads laying on it . I also like to have the shaft running out of line about 3 degrees as it makes the universals work as they should . When a shaft is running dead straight the rollers in the cups are near static and create grooves in the bearing faces of the crosses and fail faster . But it is fine to send the mower out to the right to mow under low trees . Just be aware that it displaces a lot of weight on one side of the tractor which you must keep in mind when traversing slopes . Also keep a watch on universal joints heating up as they do'nt like angles of 15 degrees or more for extended periods .

3/ You must use the slotted hole in the mowers top link . Once you set the mower height , adjust the top link so that the pin is at the halfway mark in the slotted hole . This alows the mower to articulate up and down without scalping or coming off the ground . This is why i said before that flails do'nt like being carried ie not using the roller . As when the tractor front wheels go down a dip the mower comes off the ground . And then when the tractors rear wheels go into the dip the mower gets slammed into the ground . You must also use the slotted holes in the bottom of the 3pl link arms , if you do'nt the mower can be damaged as it tries to carry the tractor through dips .

4/ The "scraper" is to remove mud and grass clippings that stick to the roller . Leave it about an 1/8" above the roller to keep the roller clean .

Go back in the thread to where i posted the page from my Berti catalogue on correct height settings .

 

[texbaylea]

I also received my new Caroni TM1900 this week. I had my Kubota dealer install it so can't speak to the shaft length issue but can maybe ask them if they had to shorten. Have you tried adjusting the shoe/skid yet? I tried today and when I removed the bolts and slid the skid down to the next position, the bolt holes didn't line up quite right. I replaced the way they were originally, but even those were not aligned perfectly and had to get all 4 bolts started and kind of use the wrench to draw them into alignment. If you get a chance I'd be interested to see if your unit has the same issue since it probably arrived in the same shipment as mine did.
Thanks,

Dave

I found the Caroni skids to have a fair amount of flex in them. When I adjust them, I fasten finger tight the bolts on one upright and then use a tapered drift to bring the holes in the other upright in to alignment and bolt it up. I expect welded up assemblies to some times have some distortion. As long as I can easily adjust for it no big deal.

Vernon

 

[scuvnut]

Ironhorse,

Thank you for all of your replies.

In regard to skid shoes, it sounds like as I can have them as high as I would like relative to the roller as long as they would avoid the knives hitting the ground.

In regard to the offset, all points well taken. However, the point about the weight displacement was the best information for me as I do a bunch of slopes and the benefit of the offset is markedly outweighed (literally) by the displacement issue. Based on your information and my application, I will leave it centered.

Now, my big question pertains to the comments regarding the use of the slotted hole in the mowers top link and in the bottom of the 3pl link arms. I simply don't see any options here - unless I am being a bit dense (strong possiblity) - there only appears to be one choice. Can you either explain this a bit further or, if you have time, give me a picture so I can get this working correctly.

I really appreciate your time in responding and assisting me.

P

 

[Nuru]

Tried the BETST for about 20 minutes today, and I will need to adjust it. I had it to its highest level and it did okay, but seem to cut better in reverse, so I think the top link angle needed to be adjusted a little to change the angle. I was going to do that but the 3520 developed a problem and started shakingSo I shut down right away and dismounted the flail and will be calling my local dealer for a warranty service Seem wierd as this mower is quit light under 540 lbs and only a 68" cut, and I was cutting fgrass, so something apparently has gone wrong with the rear PTO area?

 

[Eagleview]

Yes scuvnut .// i should have explained better . Most flail mowers have or "should" have a single hole and a slotted hole for the top link to attach too . If you have a slotted hole use this as it allows the mower to articulate fore and aft while going over bumps . I have attached a photo of mine , it's the only one i have on file and my camera is not here , i hope you can see the slotted hole . In regards to the slotted bottom holes , if you look closely at the same photo you will see that the bottom clevis slots on my lift links have a long fork . If you could see the side view of that fork you would see that there are slotted holes the same length to allow the linkage arms to float . Some tractors may not have these as they have a float option instead . When setting up the flail , i would suggest you use the bottom holes for the roller so you only need to lift the front a small amount to raise the cutters to the desired height . Remember that the cutters are halfway between the roller and the lift arms so they only react 50% of the total lift . Doing this keeps the front protection flaps as close to the ground as possible stopping stones and debris being thrown forward . In regards to driveline angles , it is better to keep the PTO shaft at around 3 degrees as i said before . Also a Universal joint speeds up and slows back down twice every revolution . At 540 PTO speed this is happening 1080 times a minute . This causes driveline chatter , undue wear and damage . That is why applications that run at severe angles require the use of CV Joints (Constant Velosity Joints) such as in axle ends on front wheel drive cars . Nuru.// Have a look underneath , you have probably got a piece of rope/wire wrapped around the drum or have thrown a knife .

 

[GreenMtns]

Tried the BETST for about 20 minutes today, and I will need to adjust it. I had it to its highest level and it did okay, but seem to cut better in reverse, so I think the top link angle needed to be adjusted a little to change the angle. I was going to do that but the 3520 developed a problem and started shakingSo I shut down right away and dismounted the flail and will be calling my local dealer for a warranty service Seem wierd as this mower is quit light under 540 lbs and only a 68" cut, and I was cutting fgrass, so something apparently has gone wrong with the rear PTO area?

Nuru

Just a thought but did you try the PTO after you disconnected the flail mower?
It would be more likely that the problem would be in the mower. My 3520 has 225 hours on it and the few problems I have had with shaking have been with implements.

 

[Nuru]

Nuru

Just a thought but did you try the PTO after you disconnected the flail mower?
It would be more likely that the problem would be in the mower. My 3520 has 225 hours on it and the few problems I have had with shaking have been with implements.

GreenMtns, Yep, sure did and the unit is making a noise when I activate the rear PTO, none on the MID PTO. It still wil shake when I just push down on the hitch arms myself? What bum luck and I just have 3.5 hours on it.

 

[scuvnut]

IronHorse

Hope you don't mind a continuing dialogue....

I took a few pictures so you can help me be sure I'm running things optimally. Hopefully, this will help many more than just myself.

I am including 5 pictures. One is a general view of the NH flail I purchased.

The next is a closeup of the flails attachment for the toplink. It is slotted, albeit not a huge slot. Not much choice here as its the only toplink option.

Next is a closeup of the flails lower three point connection. Again, a slot. Again, not like I have an option.

Next pictures are two closeup of my tractor. No slots on either of these. However, like I said in a prior post, I do have a float option.

Based on this, any more insight? Any more pictures that I can offer that will be of any help, let me know.

Paul

 

[Eagleview]

scuvnut.// That is a terrific looking mower . Your options are limited . You must use the float position on your tractor and i would suggest you elongate the top slotted hole a little further if your grounds are more undulating than the mower can articulate at present . This allows you to have the pin in the center of the slot allowing travel in both directions . Hold your top link against the slotted hole and mark how far you can extend the hole before the ball end of the link rod hits the RHS hoop frame . The holes on my mowers are about 3 1/2" long . These types of mowers are designed for dead flat operation in orchard rows and need a little tweaking for the uses we have in mind . The lift pins of your tractors lower arms will be at the top of vertical slots on your mowers lower hitch slots as they are carrying the mower but as the mower rises rapidly they will also float .

 

[Foozle]

Very helpful pics and comments. I didn't realize I even had a slotted top link hole until seeing/reading this. I'm posting a couple pics of my new Caroni. It looks like I have a slotted top link option but no slotted bottom link option (but I do have a float option for the tractor, so I guess that is ok).

Dave

 

[Reg]

Very helpful pics and comments. I didn't realize I even had a slotted top link hole until seeing/reading this. I'm posting a couple pics of my new Caroni. It looks like I have a slotted top link option but no slotted bottom link option (but I do have a float option for the tractor, so I guess that is ok).

Dave

From what I can see the lift arm pins seem to be on short arms that pivot (optionally).
If this is so, then they probably perform the same function as slotted lower arms.

 

[scuvnut]

Ironhorse,

Thanks for your comments.

I understand why you are suggesting to elongate that top slotted hole. I went out to the mower and took a couple of more quick pictures. The first one is of the opposite side and you will see that there is a small tubular structure that would limit the length I could elongate the hole. However, other than being a screwdriver holder, I don't see any particular purpose for it, so I could remove that (is there a use that I don't know about for it).

The second picture (which I did my best to hold the tape measure and take the picture) shows the hole is about 1 1/2 inches currently and I could easily get it to 3 1/2 inches without the ball end hitting the RHS hoop frame. Incidentally and to satisfy my curiosity, what does RHS stand for?

Now for the big question - this is some serious thick metal. What is the best way to actually elongate these holes?

Once the holes are elongated, am I correct that I would lower the mower to the ground so the back roller is touching the ground and then I would adjust my top link so the pin is right in the center of the newly elongated hole?

Foozle - Glad the pics helped you as well. Congrats on your new Caroni!

 

[GinNB]

A few points I've found with slotted toplink holes. First, they allow the mower to ride over humps. Two, they works best with a mower that glides along on the roller and the side skidplates (IMHO). Three, some designs require a looong toplink. Four, watch what the mower looks like when you lift it- I've got one with a slotted toplink that dangles at an awkward angle that tends to break the toplink triangle structure on the mower if the toplink isn't shortened for transport and then lengthened again to use it after arriving. PITA.