Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[quicksandfarmer]

Can someone please remind me (I actually read the whole thread awhile back) the downsides to a flail mower? Just curious.

They have a lot more moving parts and require a lot more maintenance than rotary mowers. Rotary mowers are more effective on really tall stuff.

I have one, I use it a lot, but my rough mower still gets a lot of use.

 

[DaNag]

How's the balance? Untested means you haven't mowed with it or haven't powered it up to check for vibration?

Balance should be fine, as long as all clevises are replaced. I would not mix and match SAE and metric - the SAE is definitely heavier.

However, untested means just that - I've done nothing other tweak a single clevis to fit, ensuring it swings without interference. No power up, no mowing. I wasn't willing to risk ordering 28 clevises until I verified I could modify one to fit, so I picked up the lone clevis along with my blade order from Flailmaster. Once I go through my remaining 4 spare metric clevises from Agri Supply, I'll order up enough to do the complete swap and report back. However, that might not happen for several months...so I thought I'd share what I'd found just in case anyone else wishes to give it a go before then.

How easy was it to bend the new clevis enough to keep it from binding (and therefore sticking in place) for its full range of motion?

Piece o' cake. Put the head of a M10x80mm bolt in a vice, toss on the clevis and some strategically placed washers, attach a nut to the opposite side of the clevis and go at it with a ratchet/socket. Bends without much effort at all.

 

[J F]

They have a lot more moving parts and require a lot more maintenance than rotary mowers. Rotary mowers are more effective on really tall stuff.

I have one, I use it a lot, but my rough mower still gets a lot of use.

Thanks, it's nice to hear from users.

 

[IslandTractor]

Can someone please remind me (I actually read the whole thread awhile back) the downsides to a flail mower? Just curious.

As Leonz noted the purchase price of USA made flails is about double what a very good rotary mower costs. Italian imports like Caroni cost about the same as a similar width Woods mower.

The other downside is the need for more attention to maintenance. Rotary mowers require next to none so the flail seems a bit fussy with required greasing and blade checks but once a routine is established, it is easy enough.

 

[leonz]

The issue of balance for your repair is first and foremost what is needed to be verified.

You will not be able to leave the single replacement alone with the opposing stock clevises.

The opposing two or three clevises need to be changed to maintain the proper orbit of the
hangers and knives.

 

[IslandTractor]

The issue of balance for your repair is first and foremost what is needed to be verified.

You will not be able to leave the single replacement alone with the opposing stock clevises.

The opposing two or three clevises need to be changed to maintain the proper orbit of the
hangers and knives.

Agree Looking back at my old post on the SAE clevis, it looks like I weighed the one from Flailmaster as one ounce heavier than the stock metric clevis. It would therefore be necessary to use three at a time positioned evenly at 0, 120, and 240 degree positions. Easy enough to do. Using just one would be imbalanced but no worse than running the mower with a missing blade or two which I have done many times.

 

[13gef13]

I am looking at buying a 1650 Value Leader flail for my Kioti ds3510 to clear tracks on my 280acres of Eucalypt (iron bark) forest. Would I be better off getting the hammers for the first time to clear the undergrowth and can I change to the Y type later on the same shaft. Also, has any one had any trouble with this equipment? Are the hammers the clevis type or are they bolted directly to the shaft. I have a 5ft slasher (rotary) but can only carry one piece of equip to the block at a time (thieves) so would like to make the flail work for clearing and maintenance of the tracks.
Thanks, Geoff

 

[13gef13]

I am looking at buying a 1650 Value Leader flail for my Kioti ds3510 to clear tracks on my 280acres of Eucalypt (iron bark) forest. Would I be better off getting the hammers for the first time to clear the undergrowth and can I change to the Y type later on the same shaft. Also, has any one had any trouble with this equipment? Are the hammers the clevis type or are they bolted directly to the shaft. I have a 5ft slasher (rotary) but can only carry one piece of equip to the block at a time (thieves) so would like to make the flail work for clearing and maintenance of the tracks.
Thanks, Geoff

 

[sodamo]

I have the 68" Value Leader flail and love it. 1st year I ran it with the hammers, bordering perhaps on abuse as I ran it close to the ground and would actually engage in areas of pig rooting. I also cut some tall, thick growth that might include ferns and guava trees. I busted a fair number of hammers and severely wore others. When I could no longer keep it in balance I changed out to all Y blades. Yes they bolt directly to the shaft. This year I had to replace the roller bearings. They are sealed and no way to grease. One one was a problem, but I replaced both. Highly recommend that you speak with Keith at Betst, very helpful. Depending how rough your area, you might want to order half a dozen extra hammers/blades - you will break some.

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[GinNB]

If it were me and I had a lot of brush to clear and only one mower to cut my paths, mulch the branches/stumps, and maintain it afterwards then I'd start with hammers for the heavy cutting and switch to Y blades (maybe Y blades with an axe) afterwards.