learning to drive a 16 speed

[drjdb]

I guess the previous owner had an attachement that required a very short top link, though I have no idea what that would be. I'm new to this myself, or I would ( or should ) have noticed the defect on the lot.

The dealer pleaded ignorance, and said he would find out what the normal one should be. That was Monday, and when I called him again today, he still hadn't found out. Needless to say, tractors aren't his main line of business - mainly tires and repairs. I can't complain too much, since I didn't pay for delivery, which would normally cost $200-$300, since a ferry trip is involved.

Now that I've used the box blade a bit, I can see the traction issue rearing it's ugly head. Fortunately my ground is quite soft, so it grades easily. Unfortunately my ground is quite soft, so the tractor loses traction easily. Having a 5' box blade on the 2650 probably doesn't help, but with the wheels turned out the wheelbase was about 54" so the 4' would have been too narrow. Anyway, I couldn't find anyone in the area selling a 54" box blade, and it is handy having stick out past the wheels a bit. I may yet resort to calcium in the tires, but I'll wait until I see how it performs running level.

dave

 

[Jag]

Dave, I would not go to tire ballast due to your soil conditions.
You need weight that is easily added or removed depending on your job.. Do you have a FEL, is so keep a couple of juggles of wood. I have to about 24-30 inch diameter that adds about 500 lbs to the front end weight... If not get some suite case type to go on the front frame. Any time I am working in ice or snow always add the front weigth, gives much more traction and abilty to steer, but will really cut ruts in solf ground.