L5740 or some tractor

[ArlyA]

So if we get this tractor, it needs a grapple and the hydraulic lines to the front added to operated it. Plus have the front axle grease changed and those suspect bearings tested. With only one hydraulic circuit to the rear, does another need to be added? Also watching for a 4 series JD but many of those don't have a belly pto added.

 

[CH4Ohio]

So if we get this tractor, it needs a grapple and the hydraulic lines to the front added to operated it. Plus have the front axle grease changed and those suspect bearings tested. With only one hydraulic circuit to the rear, does another need to be added? Also watching for a 4 series JD but many of those don't have a belly pto added.

Maybe I missed it, but . . . I didn't think it had any remotes on the rear. I think you need at least 2.

 

[hayden]

I would add rear remotes when/if you need them as you accumulate implements. No need to spend the money now for something you might maybe need someday.

As for a front grapple, consider just using pallet forks, depending on what you expect to be moving around. Either way I have found pallet forks to be one of the most useful loader attachments. And for moving logs around, I prefer them over a grapple. In fact, I bought a grapple years ago and only kept it for maybe a year before selling it. If you are moving a lot of brush then a grapple may be more interesting. But even a brush pile can be smashed down with the loader, then scooped up with forks.

In general, especially as a new owner, consider using the tractor for a while to get a feel for what you can do with the implements you have, and get a better sense of what other implements might help. I know I bought a bunch of stuff over my early tractor ownership, only to discover it was not really as helpful as I thought it would be for my particular needs.

 

[JeepHead]

So if we get this tractor, it needs a grapple and the hydraulic lines to the front added to operated it. Plus have the front axle grease changed and those suspect bearings tested. With only one hydraulic circuit to the rear, does another need to be added? Also watching for a 4 series JD but many of those don't have a belly pto added.

I find that a hydraulic top link is vital for how I use my tractor. It gives me precise control over my box blade an tiller, and is a must when using the middle buster. I initially had two rear ports but found I never used the second one so I sent it to the front to run my grapple. You could do a diverter valve and steal one of the functions from the loader to operate your 3rd function.

 

[hayden]

I’ll second the value of a hydraulic top link. I wouldn’t have a tractor without one.

 

[Carl_NH]

You will need a ATI QA Kubota Quick Attach Conversion Kit Then a 3rd Function Kit WR Long #VKKULA852 Third Function Valve Kit and then a front bucket QA plate 3/8" steel probably $200 then a welding shop to cut the ears off your bucket and weld on the plate $400 or so (or buy a new HD QA bucket for $800-1000)

Then a pair of forks, your at $4K and a grapple adds $2K, and rear remotes $800 a pair

 

[ning]

As for a front grapple, consider just using pallet forks, depending on what you expect to be moving around. Either way I have found pallet forks to be one of the most useful loader attachments. And for moving logs around, I prefer them over a grapple. In fact, I bought a grapple years ago and only kept it for maybe a year before selling it. If you are moving a lot of brush then a grapple may be more interesting. But even a brush pile can be smashed down with the loader, then scooped up with forks.

Though I love my new grapple, the only reason I got it is that I do a lot of brush work up on a hill, and the forks lose piles easily on any side-slope - if I was on mostly flat ground I doubt I would've gotten a grapple.

My most recent brushwork, I accumulated 8 grapple loads of brush on flat ground, mashed it all together and carried it in one shot using forks (though I did chain that load to the forks). Primarily to reduce passes over soft ground, but it also allowed me to reduce overall travel as I was accumulating the pile a relatively close distance from the brush work.

 

[RjCorazza]

I have always wanted a grapple, but the reality is for my use the pallet forks work better for moving brush piles and logs. If I were making the brush piles I would certainly want a grapple.

 

[TMGT]

You will need a ATI QA Kubota Quick Attach Conversion Kit Then a 3rd Function Kit WR Long #VKKULA852 Third Function Valve Kit and then a front bucket QA plate 3/8" steel probably $200 then a welding shop to cut the ears off your bucket and weld on the plate $400 or so (or buy a new HD QA bucket for $800-1000)

Then a pair of forks, your at $4K and a grapple adds $2K, and rear remotes $800 a pair

Why does he need the ati QA? The Kubota factory one on it should work just fine.

 

[ArlyA]

We are getting a grapple for brush and whole log moving.

 

[5030]

So if we get this tractor, it needs a grapple and the hydraulic lines to the front added to operated it. Plus have the front axle grease changed and those suspect bearings tested. With only one hydraulic circuit to the rear, does another need to be added? Also watching for a 4 series JD but many of those don't have a belly pto added.

You have access to a welder however I have no idea of your skill level, not that it requires a lot of skill to run a glue (MIG) gun. What I'd suggest you doing is add a grapple to the bucket which is what I did in asmuch as I have a couple buckets. I added a Green Machine Shop grapple to one of my FEL buckets. I also added a set of Vevor clamp on debris forks (Amazon with free delivery). They are light weight debris forks but Ideal for me to gather brush and small logs for the burn pile (as I don't heat with wood though I have a large woodlot adjacent to the farm). The Green Machine Shop grapples come complete with a hydraulic cylinder and you can remove them if neceassary by pulling 2 pins and hitch clips. You would need to weld on a carrier plate to the top of the bucket and their carrier bolster screws to the carrier plate. Real straight forward welding. I wanted the grapple to be easily removed when I didn't require it and same with the debris forks. Besides, their grapple is a ton cheaper than a dedicated grapple and it works fine for my use. Goggle up Green Machine Shop. They have a very informative website. Located in Indiana and made in the USA btw.

You will still need to buy hydraulic hoses and add a FEL mounted '3rd function'. What I did, because I habe multiple sets of Pioneer remotes on both my tractors (3 sets on each unit, 6 total, 3 in and 3 out), I went to discount hydraulic hose after I measured the distance between the rear remotes and where I needed them on the lower cross tube on the FEL frame and ran the hoses from the back to the loader and terminated them with another set of Pioneer couplers. Because I remove my FEL's from the tractors on ocassion, I added a set of Pioneer couplers (male and female) where the hoses entered the loader frame so I can disconnect them completely if I want to remover the loaders. Works like a charm and I use my 10 foot power angle snowplow as well so I need FEL mounted hydraulics. The Green Grapple comes in black powder coat as well. Once you mount the bolster to the top of the bucket and add their fixture, it comes on and off in maybe 30 seconds.

I used my top set of rear remotes and the hoses on the back end terminate in Pioneer males so it's plug and play and I can uncouple them if I need to like when I'm running my new round bailer as it requires 3 sets of remotes to operate plus the lines to interface the computer controls. I just use one of my in cab remote control levers to run the grapple or the power angle plow. Sounds comples but in reality it's not at all. In fact, it's simple. Here is the remotes and the bracket I fabbed up and welded to the loader cross tube... If you have more questions you can message me at sales@flipmeisters.com That is my machine shop site.

 

[5030]

Additionally, there better not be any GREASE in the front axle housing. It takes either SUDT fluid or in my case, 85-140 GL 4-5 Hypoid oil. If it has grease in it, it's focked up. If the tractor is a hydrostat, it will take SUDT in the gearbox as well. Mine are both gear drive and while Kubota recommends SUDT for the gearbox as well, I use Chevron All Weather THC Synthetic instead because it flows better in cold weather and unlike SUDT, it comes dyed orange so you can see it on the dipstick or sight glass, whichever the tractor has.

Over the years, I've found that the Chevron allows faster cold weather warmup's and just flat flows better.

Keep in mind that I work part time at a Kubota dealership so I know what works and what don't plus I have access to all the Kubota shop manuals. We 'bleed' orange at this farm and have for many years. Everything we own is Kubota, even the hay tools except fir the New Holland discbine which will probably get traded in on a Kubota discbine in the near future. Even my rotary hay rake is a Kubota as is our side by side.

Whatever you settle on, Kubota or Deere or whatever, I hope you at least get the owners manual and some sort of maintenance roster as well and I'd suggest buying or downloading on the net, the applicable shop manual. Kubota and Deere shop manuals are very concise and written in terms you can understand. Though I'm not as far north as you are, it still snows here and gets bitter cold in the winter. Just not as long of a duration as you have. Heck, I consider going 'up north' to our hunting property near Big Rapids to be as far north as I want to go, especially now that I'm an old retiree.

 

[Snobdds]

Arly has you on ignore...

 

[CH4Ohio]

You have access to a welder however I have no idea of your skill level, not that it requires a lot of skill to run a glue (MIG) gun. What I'd suggest you doing is add a grapple to the bucket which is what I did in asmuch as I have a couple buckets. I added a Green Machine Shop grapple to one of my FEL buckets. I also added a set of Vevor clamp on debris forks (Amazon with free delivery). They are light weight debris forks but Ideal for me to gather brush and small logs for the burn pile (as I don't heat with wood though I have a large woodlot adjacent to the farm). The Green Machine Shop grapples come complete with a hydraulic cylinder and you can remove them if neceassary by pulling 2 pins and hitch clips. You would need to weld on a carrier plate to the top of the bucket and their carrier bolster screws to the carrier plate. Real straight forward welding. I wanted the grapple to be easily removed when I didn't require it and same with the debris forks. Besides, their grapple is a ton cheaper than a dedicated grapple and it works fine for my use. Goggle up Green Machine Shop. They have a very informative website. Located in Indiana and made in the USA btw.

You will still need to buy hydraulic hoses and add a FEL mounted '3rd function'. What I did, because I habe multiple sets of Pioneer remotes on both my tractors (3 sets on each unit, 6 total, 3 in and 3 out), I went to discount hydraulic hose after I measured the distance between the rear remotes and where I needed them on the lower cross tube on the FEL frame and ran the hoses from the back to the loader and terminated them with another set of Pioneer couplers. Because I remove my FEL's from the tractors on ocassion, I added a set of Pioneer couplers (male and female) where the hoses entered the loader frame so I can disconnect them completely if I want to remover the loaders. Works like a charm and I use my 10 foot power angle snowplow as well so I need FEL mounted hydraulics. The Green Grapple comes in black powder coat as well. Once you mount the bolster to the top of the bucket and add their fixture, it comes on and off in maybe 30 seconds.

I used my top set of rear remotes and the hoses on the back end terminate in Pioneer males so it's plug and play and I can uncouple them if I need to like when I'm running my new round bailer as it requires 3 sets of remotes to operate plus the lines to interface the computer controls. I just use one of my in cab remote control levers to run the grapple or the power angle plow. Sounds comples but in reality it's not at all. In fact, it's simple. Here is the remotes and the bracket I fabbed up and welded to the loader cross tube... If you have more questions you can message me at sales@flipmeisters.com That is my machine shop site.

That seems way too complicated. Why weld on a perfectly good bucket when it’s the only one he has?

Keep it “factory” and simple and neat. Hoses running from the rear don’t make sense because it doesn’t have rear remotes (yet) either.

Might as well just figure into the cost whatever it takes to add a 3rd function. He’ll buy a SSQA grapple. It will fit without any mods and the button on the joystick will be as convenient as it gets.

If there’s a need for rear remotes, add them. He hasn’t really said what he’s going to do with the tractor.

You said your wife “said you need to be in a cab to clear land” …. Keep in mind you can’t use the cab to keep limbs off you or push stuff out of the way. The roof is super thin and the glass and sides can’t handle much abuse.

The cab is the way to go, but you have to treat it like you would your car. Can’t drive it THROUGH bushes and limbs.

 

[5030]

Arly has you on ignore...

Interestingly, I used to have you on ignore as well but I decided that it was more mature to just not read posts from people I don't align with. You might want to tell him to read my comment in as much as I've 'been there' especially with Kubota's.

If he's that vain, it's his loss and not mine. Probably didn't like my comments about his Ego electric zero turn but then I'm not into L-ion batteries in larger applications and certainly not impressed with an electric ride on lawnmower. I much prefer my Kubota F series diessl mower.

Life is too short to have anyone on ignore anyway and when there is a constructive comment, having someone on ignore makes that comment a loss for someone that might benefit from it.

Don't play that petty, immature crap.

 

[Snobdds]

Interestingly, I used to have you on ignore as well but I decided that it was more mature to just not read posts from people I don't align with. You might want to tell him to read my comment in as much as I've 'been there' especially with Kubota's.

If he's that vain, it's his loss and not mine. Probably didn't like my comments about his Ego electric zero turn but then I'm not into L-ion batteries in larger applications and certainly not impressed with an electric ride on lawnmower. I much prefer my Kubota F series diessl mower.

Life is too short to have anyone on ignore anyway and when there is a constructive comment, having someone on ignore makes that comment a loss for someone that might benefit from it.

Don't play that petty, immature crap.

He has me on ignore too...

 

[5030]

That seems way too complicated. Why weld on a perfectly good bucket when it’s the only one he has?

Keep it “factory” and simple and neat. Hoses running from the rear don’t make sense because it doesn’t have rear remotes (yet) either.

Might as well just figure into the cost whatever it takes to add a 3rd function. He’ll buy a SSQA grapple. It will fit without any mods and the button on the joystick will be as convenient as it gets.

If there’s a need for rear remotes, add them. He hasn’t really said what he’s going to do with the tractor.

You said your wife “said you need to be in a cab to clear land” …. Keep in mind you can’t use the cab to keep limbs off you or push stuff out of the way. The roof is super thin and the glass and sides can’t handle much abuse.

The cab is the way to go, but you have to test it like you would your car. Can’t drive it THROUGH bushes and limbs.

Fair statement 100%. I don't know what a 3rd function costs to be frank and I have the remotes available on both my M's Nice thing about the Green Grapple is, it's easily removable if you need a 'grappless' bucket for other uses, whereas a dedicated grapple is just that. Only good for grappling debris or logs or whatever and all 3 of my buckets as well as both my tractors are SSQA anyway.

Kind of like tooth bars, lots of people like the cut toothed ones, but I prefer the ATI bolt on tooth bar because it has 100% replaceable roll pinned on hardened teeth, plus I can use the tooth bar on any of the buckets I own. 2 grade 8 bolts and 2 gex nuts and it comes right off and gets moved, easy peasy.

 

[CH4Ohio]

His loader is already SSQA so he’ll have a bucket and a grapple that he can easily drop and attach. Doesn’t get simpler than that.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Plus he already has the loader forks.

 

[CH4Ohio]

I used a hay bale grapple for a few years by running hoses from a rear remote. It was a real upgrade when I added a 3rd function. Really nice not to use the remote levers to actuate the grab hooks. Being able to keep your hand on the joystick when actuating a grapple makes it much easier to operate.