Kubota or John Deer

[5030]

I don't 'love' any tractor, never have. To me, a tractor is a tool and a tool only. Love my wife and my dog but never a machine like a tractor or a car or whatever.

 

[jyoutz]

That's good to know. What would a kit like that cost and what does that do to a warranty?

With that level of engine modification, I think that Kubota would declare the engine warranty to be void.

 

[Rock Crawler]

I don't 'love' any tractor, never have. To me, a tractor is a tool and a tool only. Love my wife and my dog but never a machine like a tractor or a car or whatever.

It is a figure of speech. The point being that I went through 3 units and finally found my huckleberry. The 3560 just checks all of the boxes for my use case and the LA805 loader is a big part of it. Heck, I didn't even even modify the loader relief valve pressure on this thing. She is doing what I ask of her just the way they put her together. It is a nice machine to have around.

 

[sea2summit]

I love my L3560. If you found a used one, I would strongly suggest that you go at least look at and touch it. The stability is so much better than my B2650 I had. The B2650 could get tippy on side slopes while my L3560 (both with loaded tires) has been on such a side slope with the brush hog that I slid sideways down a hill and never lifted. I had the rears at the widest position on both. I also had a BX for a VERY short while and hated it. It was so tippy that it was just unsafe to use. Everything I did was in pucker-mode. The L3560 is a great machine and stability platform for it's size.

This is a Norstar Single Wheel Long Bed that is advertised as 1070 lbs, you can clearly see that it is far out front of my bucket.
View attachment 787585

You can dang near see light under those rears.

 

[5030]

With that level of engine modification, I think that Kubota would declare the engine warranty to be void.

Kubota is extremely touchy about any and all modifications to the drivetrain and engine, but then all brands are. Why buy a diminutive unit in the first place. Buy a unit that fits your needs and don't modify it at all. Never understood that philosophy at all. That of course applies to all brands.

My take is, buy bigger and don't fiddle with it.

 

[Rdrcr]

That's good to know. What would a kit like that cost and what does that do to a warranty?

The L2501 Turbo kit is expected to run just under $3K, which gives you a savings of roughly $2K on an L3901 and $4K on an L3902.

The installation of the Turbo kit will void your Kubota warranty. That’s the compromise.

Mike

 

[Rdrcr]

Kubota is extremely touchy about any and all modifications to the drivetrain and engine, but then all brands are. Why buy a diminutive unit in the first place. Buy a unit that fits your needs and don't modify it at all. Never understood that philosophy at all. That of course applies to all brands.

My take is, buy bigger and don't fiddle with it.

We modify because we don’t want to deal with complex and complicated electronic engine controls and emissions equipment. We modify something so we don’t have to buy more tractor than we need.

Mike

 

[5030]

I always buy 'more' tractor than I need and then grow into it and find out after a fashion that what I thought was big enough is too small. Far as I'm concerned, there is no replacement for displacement or power. I don't do weinie tractors here.

 

[tradosaurus]

Ask your Jane Dear dealer. Map closest dealers or parts suppliers. Consider proximity. Driving 3 hours for an air filter isn't a good use of time nor $. Stay a way from cheap parts imitation providers.

Most parts can be ordered from the dealer. No tractor mfg makes their own oil so as long as the oil and fluids meet minimum specs called out in the owners manual it won't matter where you buy the fluids.

 

[Rdrcr]

I always buy 'more' tractor than I need and then grow into it and find out after a fashion that what I thought was big enough is too small. Far as I'm concerned, there is no replacement for displacement or power. I don't do weinie tractors here.

You're not alone. And I don't fault anyone for buying more tractor than they need. There are situations where an individual doesn't want, or need more tractor and the Turbo kit is an alternative for those folks, especially when they don't want to deal with emissions or purchasing an older tractor without emissions equipment. Heck, and most of those 'larger' tractors are turbocharged too!

Mike

 

[5030]

Emission and electronic engine management are non issues for me as both my M's are pre Tier 4. Strictly mechanical, just the way I like it. Turbocharged, of course.

 

[RalphVa]

I'm thinking about buying a new tractor in the 25 to 30 thousand dollar price range. Would like something in the 30 to 35hp range. Witch one is the best bang for the buck?

Don't know about the size you're looking at, but here is what I found after having 2 JD 2 series tractors and a 1025R vs. current Kubota B2601:

Ways B2601 is better than JD 2 series


o Starts cold a lot better: no shudder/shake nor smoke..
o Float on FEL is very easily engaged, almost too easy.
o 2wd/4wd is so easy.
o Hydraulics are MUCH stronger. Flow is near 3 times but makes for a more jerky FEL use.
o Idles nicely at 1,100. The 1025R was abnoxious at 1,650; 2025R was 1,300.
o Drink holder is bigger than the joke one on the 2025R. Not sure it'll hold my little thermos. Put the Frontier doc holder top on the left side of the FEL tower as my drink holder.
o Parking brake is easier to disengage but seems a tad harder to engage.

o Guards to the valve stems.
o Metal covering over the driveshaft (JDs only have plastic)
o 3ph raises a tad higher
o The fuel cap actually screws on and off easier.

o The radiator overflow container is right in front and easy to get to. Needed a screwdriver to take the top off the one on the 2025R and a funnel with long snout to refill it. Then top was hard to put back on. Actually, the B’s is not much easier to get off, and a long snout funnel is needed on it.
o More room to get the end snorkel off the air cleaner.
o The brake pedal lock snaps off by tapping the pedals. Hard to get off at times on the JDs.
o Top link is really easy to turn, e.g. that grease point maybe. Actually smaller, too. The tilt one is also smaller and easy to turn if load is taken off it..
o Three position steering wheel.
o Of course, 3 range HST control. Only 2 on the JDs.

o Fuel use is 0.014 gph/engine hp (multiply this by 2.5/2.0 because I discovered that the contiainer I'd been filling with is 2.5 gallons) vs. 0.025 gph/engine hp on 3 Yanmar JDs. Exhaust is not blackening the back side of the FEL.

o Slightly lower hood for easier refill. Have a battery pump that makes this easy by sitting container on foot area of the tractor.

o The stuff under the seat is easier to clean out. There’s a clear path to put silicone spray on all moving parts. All the JDs seemed to have a pan/sheet metal there that made cleanout almost impossible.

o Quiet HST vs. 3 JDs that whined like mad.

o No stinking driveshaft Ujoints to grease.

o STILL has steering brakes.

 

[Cahaba Valley Farm]

You're not alone. And I don't fault anyone for buying more tractor than they need. There are situations where an individual doesn't want, or need more tractor and the Turbo kit is an alternative for those folks, especially when they don't want to deal with emissions or purchasing an older tractor without emissions equipment. Heck, and most of those 'larger' tractors are turbocharged too!

Mike

I have to hand it to you RD that was a very clever idea on your part and makes a lot of sense given how you presented it.

 

[5030]

Of course the issue is, if it's under warranty or a new unit, that modification will void any warranty so if there is any issue, you are 100% on your own.

 

[Cahaba Valley Farm]

Don't know about the size you're looking at, but here is what I found after having 2 JD 2 series tractors and a 1025R vs. current Kubota B2601:

Ways B2601 is better than JD 2 series


o Starts cold a lot better: no shudder/shake nor smoke..
o Float on FEL is very easily engaged, almost too easy.
o 2wd/4wd is so easy.
o Hydraulics are MUCH stronger. Flow is near 3 times but makes for a more jerky FEL use.
o Idles nicely at 1,100. The 1025R was abnoxious at 1,650; 2025R was 1,300.
o Drink holder is bigger than the joke one on the 2025R. Not sure it'll hold my little thermos. Put the Frontier doc holder top on the left side of the FEL tower as my drink holder.
o Parking brake is easier to disengage but seems a tad harder to engage.

o Guards to the valve stems.
o Metal covering over the driveshaft (JDs only have plastic)
o 3ph raises a tad higher
o The fuel cap actually screws on and off easier.

o The radiator overflow container is right in front and easy to get to. Needed a screwdriver to take the top off the one on the 2025R and a funnel with long snout to refill it. Then top was hard to put back on. Actually, the B’s is not much easier to get off, and a long snout funnel is needed on it.
o More room to get the end snorkel off the air cleaner.
o The brake pedal lock snaps off by tapping the pedals. Hard to get off at times on the JDs.
o Top link is really easy to turn, e.g. that grease point maybe. Actually smaller, too. The tilt one is also smaller and easy to turn if load is taken off it..
o Three position steering wheel.
o Of course, 3 range HST control. Only 2 on the JDs.

o Fuel use is 0.014 gph/engine hp (multiply this by 2.5/2.0 because I discovered that the contiainer I'd been filling with is 2.5 gallons) vs. 0.025 gph/engine hp on 3 Yanmar JDs. Exhaust is not blackening the back side of the FEL.

o Slightly lower hood for easier refill. Have a battery pump that makes this easy by sitting container on foot area of the tractor.

o The stuff under the seat is easier to clean out. There’s a clear path to put silicone spray on all moving parts. All the JDs seemed to have a pan/sheet metal there that made cleanout almost impossible.

o Quiet HST vs. 3 JDs that whined like mad.

o No stinking driveshaft Ujoints to grease.

o STILL has steering brakes.

This is a major value that people like you and Tim are bringing to consumers who want to know the differences. I think we will only see more of this type of feedback as time goes on. Thanks for the insights Ralph.

 

[Rdrcr]

Of course the issue is, if it's under warranty or a new unit, that modification will void any warranty so if there is any issue, you are 100% on your own.

Absolutely. I'm living proof of that fact!
And I can't wait to Turbocharge a brand new L2502!

Luckily, the likelihood of using your Kubota warranty on a L2501 is very very low. The L2501 is a very simple and incredibly robust tractor.

Mike

 

[5030]

The L2501 is a very simple and incredibly robust tractor.

IMO, all Kubota's are, why I own 2 of them plus a side by side.

 

[Yander]

I don't 'love' any tractor, never have. To me, a tractor is a tool and a tool only. Love my wife and my dog but never a machine like a tractor or a car or whatever

I always buy 'more' tractor than I need and then grow into it and find out after a fashion that what I thought was big enough is too small. Far as I'm concerned, there is no replacement for displacement or power. I don't do weinie tractors here.

I love my weenie tractor more than my wife! . I have nothing to compensate for so I'm fine with a weenie tractor!

 

[tradosaurus]

Don't know about the size you're looking at, but here is what I found after having 2 JD 2 series tractors and a 1025R vs. current Kubota B2601:

Ways B2601 is better than JD 2 series


o Starts cold a lot better: no shudder/shake nor smoke..
o Float on FEL is very easily engaged, almost too easy.
o 2wd/4wd is so easy.
o Hydraulics are MUCH stronger. Flow is near 3 times but makes for a more jerky FEL use.
o Idles nicely at 1,100. The 1025R was abnoxious at 1,650; 2025R was 1,300.
o Drink holder is bigger than the joke one on the 2025R. Not sure it'll hold my little thermos. Put the Frontier doc holder top on the left side of the FEL tower as my drink holder.
o Parking brake is easier to disengage but seems a tad harder to engage.

o Guards to the valve stems.
o Metal covering over the driveshaft (JDs only have plastic)
o 3ph raises a tad higher
o The fuel cap actually screws on and off easier.

o The radiator overflow container is right in front and easy to get to. Needed a screwdriver to take the top off the one on the 2025R and a funnel with long snout to refill it. Then top was hard to put back on. Actually, the B’s is not much easier to get off, and a long snout funnel is needed on it.
o More room to get the end snorkel off the air cleaner.
o The brake pedal lock snaps off by tapping the pedals. Hard to get off at times on the JDs.
o Top link is really easy to turn, e.g. that grease point maybe. Actually smaller, too. The tilt one is also smaller and easy to turn if load is taken off it..
o Three position steering wheel.
o Of course, 3 range HST control. Only 2 on the JDs.

o Fuel use is 0.014 gph/engine hp (multiply this by 2.5/2.0 because I discovered that the contiainer I'd been filling with is 2.5 gallons) vs. 0.025 gph/engine hp on 3 Yanmar JDs. Exhaust is not blackening the back side of the FEL.

o Slightly lower hood for easier refill. Have a battery pump that makes this easy by sitting container on foot area of the tractor.

o The stuff under the seat is easier to clean out. There’s a clear path to put silicone spray on all moving parts. All the JDs seemed to have a pan/sheet metal there that made cleanout almost impossible.

o Quiet HST vs. 3 JDs that whined like mad.

o No stinking driveshaft Ujoints to grease.

o STILL has steering brakes.

I never understood JD bragging about the plastic hood on their compact tractors.

 

[tacticalturnip]

I never understood JD bragging about the plastic hood on their compact tractors.

They've got their strengths; when a branch broke off a tree and bounced off of my hood I really appreciated it.

A lot better than the old plastic, I'll give them that.