KIOTI CK2610 fluid advice

[Too many Kubotas]

Looks like you should be able to read a part number on that filter.

 

[paulsharvey]

Looks like you should be able to read a part number on that filter.

My Korean isn't too good. Maybe there is a English serial number on there, but I see all Korean characters, and no info

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Uh, oh.

I'll be in the same situation at some point once I start using mine. And then I'll probably call the dealer - and likely buy the filters from there, too.

 

[K5lwq]

@ODZD did you do fuel filter? It seems stupid, but when I check manual, there are distinctly two different models, depending on if a "B" or "F" model? I have a CK2610H. Is that a "B" or an "F"View attachment 877387View attachment 877388

According to the parts lookup on Michigan Iron’s website, the filter part number is T4682-43172 for the CK2610H.

 

[paulsharvey]

According to the parts lookup on Michigan Iron’s website, the filter part number is T4682-43172 for the CK2610H.

That's what I found as well; but the manual lists two. Was wondering what the heck the manual meant by "B" vs "F"

 

[K5lwq]

That's what I found as well; but the manual lists two. Was wondering what the heck the manual meant by "B" vs "F"

F6800-16411 Is the one for the 4010H so I suspect it is an engine code but don’t know for sure.

 

[D&D]

That's what I found as well; but the manual lists two. Was wondering what the heck the manual meant by "B" vs "F"

The B is a spin on element without a water separator, the F has a water separator

 

[paulsharvey]

I just installed this one last night, and fit was fine.

Check this out at Amazon.com
LSSOCH Fuel Filter T4682-43172... Amazon.com

Only issue was getting that plastic bottom cap/drain fitting to thread in right. The threads are correct, but between a plastic male, and sheet metal stamped female, it tried to cross thread like 9 times before I got it to go.

I did not check what hours you are supposed to change the fuel filter at, but mine has had a drop in power recently, at only 70ish hours. I've been working in extreme dust, and cleaned the air filter ever about 4 hours, and that didn't change much. It felt/sounded like fuel; basically on a slope and with a load that used to be fine, now it would bog down in medium range. Fuel filter appeared to take care if it, but only had the chance to run one load before I had to fix dinner.

 

[adamjordan6545]

The only things I would add (and it has been mentioned by others here) is to check the dipstick levels on the fluids before changing and if they are in the correct range measure what you take out (including draining the filters) and replace with the same amount (with a few extra mls for the new dry filter material.

It will get you closer to where you want to be in the end.

The front axles in particular need to have the wheels rotated to distribute the new fluid to all the nooks and crannies. Jack the front axle so you can spin the wheels manually and/or drive and recheck the levels.

Also check the manual for your model whether the measuring dipstick is correctly read fully screwed in or just put into the hole to the first thread.

There is a learning curve the first time for everything. Rechecking cam test your dip sticks a few times over the first 1-2 working hours will give you the confidence you did it correctly.

I know the fluid doesn’t necessarily need changing.