KAMA TS254C Hydraulic hook ups
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J_J
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I see 7 hoses, so you have an open center valve with PB.
The pump hose goes to the IN port of the loader valve. That is the hose coming into the valve from the right side of the second pic.
The PB hose is the hose connected to the left side of valve with green markings.
The OUT hose goes to a return line.
The PB hose goes to the mid or back for a remote valve or the 3pt.
You then have two work port hoses for one set of cylinders, and another two work ports for the other set of cylinders.
You have to be careful about using QD's on hyd lines, if one set of QD's is disconnected, the pump flow will cause a valve to go into relief, or cause big problems..
You can work out where certain hoses go, by removing the QD, and watching for the flow when you flip a lever.
If there is a hose on the pump, and the engine is running, there is always fluid flowing through the hose, and the fluid either goes to a hyd block or the IN port of the loader valve.
If the IN hose is connected correctly, and all levers are in neutral, there will be flow out of the PB port, and that hose should go to the remote valves or 3pt input.
If the cyl hose are connected correctly, when you pull the lift lever, both lift cyls should extend, and when you push the lever fwd or down, the lift cyl should retract.
Same with the curl, lever one way and cyl will extend and the other way the cyl will retract.
Exactly where a hoses goes on our particular tractor, just use logical deduction.
I see some color markers on some of the hoses that may have some meaning.
The pump hose goes to the IN port of the loader valve. That is the hose coming into the valve from the right side of the second pic.
The PB hose is the hose connected to the left side of valve with green markings.
The OUT hose goes to a return line.
The PB hose goes to the mid or back for a remote valve or the 3pt.
You then have two work port hoses for one set of cylinders, and another two work ports for the other set of cylinders.
You have to be careful about using QD's on hyd lines, if one set of QD's is disconnected, the pump flow will cause a valve to go into relief, or cause big problems..
You can work out where certain hoses go, by removing the QD, and watching for the flow when you flip a lever.
If there is a hose on the pump, and the engine is running, there is always fluid flowing through the hose, and the fluid either goes to a hyd block or the IN port of the loader valve.
If the IN hose is connected correctly, and all levers are in neutral, there will be flow out of the PB port, and that hose should go to the remote valves or 3pt input.
If the cyl hose are connected correctly, when you pull the lift lever, both lift cyls should extend, and when you push the lever fwd or down, the lift cyl should retract.
Same with the curl, lever one way and cyl will extend and the other way the cyl will retract.
Exactly where a hoses goes on our particular tractor, just use logical deduction.
I see some color markers on some of the hoses that may have some meaning.
Last edited:
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lakespirit
Silver Member
J.J.
You lost me somewhere. I am just concerned with the three large diameter hoses on the loader valve and where they go on the tractor.
Thanks.
You lost me somewhere. I am just concerned with the three large diameter hoses on the loader valve and where they go on the tractor.
Thanks.
J_J
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In case no one has a tractor on the forum like yours, and you don't have a manual, you should use logical deduction as to where the hoses go.
I simply gave you some guide lines.
I simply gave you some guide lines.
greg_g
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- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
I'm surprised you can't figure out the connections based upon the length of hose and type of connector. I used to have photos of the hydraulic hose routing on my TS354C, but I lost them when a hard drive crashed. So best guess - on the tractor - from rear to front - it appears you have you have pressure/PB/return. On the controller, the four grouped together are connected to the loader cylinders. The hose coming out of the bottom of the controller connects to the pump. The hose with the green band should be Power Beyond, would seem logical to connect it to the tractor fitting with the other green band. The last one then - just above the 4 cylinder hoses - should be the return.
But you should have a bypass hose in there somewhere as well, so you can route pressure to return when the loader's removed.
//greg//
But you should have a bypass hose in there somewhere as well, so you can route pressure to return when the loader's removed.
//greg//
Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
Like JJ said:
In your picture of the tractor, second pic, the quick-connect closest to the camera coming out of the pump goes to the "in" port on bottom of the valve (right in pic). The quick-connect farthest from the camera supplies the 3-point and gets connected to the Power Beyond port on the valve which is coming out of the top (left in pic). The quick-connect in the middle in the tractor pic is the return line which connects to the Out port on the left side of the valve (closest to camera in valve pic). The return line connection on the tank is also the tank drain.
I don't have your exact tractor but it's similar and we are going by what is typical in terms of the valve connections. Look at page 30 here: http://www.koykermfg.com/images/koyker-manuals/155.pdf and the power beyond setup is about what you have.
Those connections should be color-coded and it is confusing that you have a green band on the power beyond port of the valve and the return line on the tractor which does not make sense. I recommend you get some colored electrical tape and code the connections.
Per JJ's warning, you should not start the tractor in the condition shown in your second picture (and you will have to start it to connect the loader). A hose with 2 female ends should be connected from the pump outlet quick-connect to the 3ph inlet quick connect. Otherwise the fluid from the pump will be dead-headed which will severely damage the pump. EDIT: While you have the jumper hose connected, make sure the 3-point operates. If it does not, try the other quick-connect in case I was wrong about which is which. Nothing will be damaged if you connect the pump outlet to the return line but the 3-point will not operate.
In your picture of the tractor, second pic, the quick-connect closest to the camera coming out of the pump goes to the "in" port on bottom of the valve (right in pic). The quick-connect farthest from the camera supplies the 3-point and gets connected to the Power Beyond port on the valve which is coming out of the top (left in pic). The quick-connect in the middle in the tractor pic is the return line which connects to the Out port on the left side of the valve (closest to camera in valve pic). The return line connection on the tank is also the tank drain.
I don't have your exact tractor but it's similar and we are going by what is typical in terms of the valve connections. Look at page 30 here: http://www.koykermfg.com/images/koyker-manuals/155.pdf and the power beyond setup is about what you have.
Those connections should be color-coded and it is confusing that you have a green band on the power beyond port of the valve and the return line on the tractor which does not make sense. I recommend you get some colored electrical tape and code the connections.
Per JJ's warning, you should not start the tractor in the condition shown in your second picture (and you will have to start it to connect the loader). A hose with 2 female ends should be connected from the pump outlet quick-connect to the 3ph inlet quick connect. Otherwise the fluid from the pump will be dead-headed which will severely damage the pump. EDIT: While you have the jumper hose connected, make sure the 3-point operates. If it does not, try the other quick-connect in case I was wrong about which is which. Nothing will be damaged if you connect the pump outlet to the return line but the 3-point will not operate.
Last edited:
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lakespirit
Silver Member
OK, so I have everything hooked up. The TPH arms are up and won't go down. Virtually no pressure being developed. When I operate the valve levers on the loader and loosen the hydraulic fittings oil oozes out, and it appears I have bled the air out, but nothing moves???
greg_g
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Let's back up a bit. First, why were the loader and all hoses removed? And second, was everything in working order before the removals?
//greg//
//greg//
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lakespirit
Silver Member
Because I had no functionality with TPH, loader, etc.
greg_g
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I'm not following the logic here. Hydraulics don't work, so disconnect and reconnect the hoses(?) Logic would dictate troubleshooting pressure and flow. You could have a bad pump, or a dirty loader controller. Since that tractor has a separate steering pump, you could lose loader and TPH functionality - and stil have steering. You should consider first establishing that the pump is indeed developing spec pressure. If satisfactory, move on to cleaning and/or repairing the loader controller valves. Without a pressure gauge, one way to check out the loader controller to actually remove it from the hydraulic circuit. As previously stated and restated, it's imperative at this point to install the bypass hose. If the rear lift works in this configuration, your pump is developing pressure. By elimination then, the symptoms point to a loader control valve or valves.
//greg//
//greg//
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lakespirit
Silver Member
Canyou describe how to hook up the hoses to do this?
greg_g
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There should be one hose that's shorter than the rest, with a QD on both ends. Like I said, I lost the hose routing photos when that hard drive crashed. So I'm not sure if it comes off the return QD fitting or the pump QD fitting. Regardless, it's a male/female mating. With the loader out of the circuit, you connect the two (pump and return ) so that high pressure fluid - previously routed to the loader control valve - now goes straight back into the sump. At least that's how my 2006 TS354C was configured, and it's basically just the 35 hp version of yours.
//greg//
//greg//
J_J
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You need to verify that the pump is working, and no loader connected.
Remove the QD's and run a hose from pump into a 5 bucket and start engine.
If the pump is good, and if you can fill the bucket in 1 minute, you have about a 5 GPM flow.
If you have flow, then look for two ports in the back of the tractor, one port being input to 3pt, and other port to sump.
Connect the pump to one of the ports. If it is the 3pt, the 3pt should work, and if you connected the pump hose to sump, the pump is just pumping to sump and you have no 3pt.
If the loader is connected, then the pump hose goes to the IN port of the FEL valve.
The PB hose goes to the back to the 3pt.
The OUT hose from FEL goes back to the sump.
If you are going to use the QD's, make sure they are working correctly.
Remove the QD from the pump and leave it off. The pump needs a relief valve in case the hose is dead headed, which will blow the pump, or snap the shaft, which is what may have already happened.
If you have flow in the above test, then the pump is probably good.
Remove the QD's and run a hose from pump into a 5 bucket and start engine.
If the pump is good, and if you can fill the bucket in 1 minute, you have about a 5 GPM flow.
If you have flow, then look for two ports in the back of the tractor, one port being input to 3pt, and other port to sump.
Connect the pump to one of the ports. If it is the 3pt, the 3pt should work, and if you connected the pump hose to sump, the pump is just pumping to sump and you have no 3pt.
If the loader is connected, then the pump hose goes to the IN port of the FEL valve.
The PB hose goes to the back to the 3pt.
The OUT hose from FEL goes back to the sump.
If you are going to use the QD's, make sure they are working correctly.
Remove the QD from the pump and leave it off. The pump needs a relief valve in case the hose is dead headed, which will blow the pump, or snap the shaft, which is what may have already happened.
If you have flow in the above test, then the pump is probably good.
EE_Bota
Elite Member
Sure. It has been described. Let me try.
Look at your tractor picture. Can you identify P? That's the pump line. It's the QC closest to you in the picture.
If you take that middle QC off, the one with the green band, I think you will drain your sump. So let's call that T for Tank.
The front most of the three in the picture must the the lift...a "load beyond" the loader valve, so that would be a great place to use "power beyond."
If you just want to start the tractor, connect pump to either of the remaining connections, but I'd suggest the front QC so you can try the lift.
Don't be fooled by a lift that is up, but won't come down under gravity. I have to stand on my upper arms to get them to go down, and yours could be doing a bit of that. My lower lift links are removed for the digger, so it could just be mine that needs additional weight to go down.
I could be wrong, I suppose, but there is wrong and then there is CRACK wrong. I believe if you hook the pump to either place, you can start the tractor without ruining a pump, but if that were my ultimate goal, not testing, I'd hook pump to that closest port, the one I am calling T.
bluechip
Veteran Member
Did you ever get it hooked up? hose coming out of top of valve is Power Beyond and goes to the front most connector on the tractor, on most valves the hose going into the bottom of the valve is the pressure port, it will go to the pump. the one that is left is teh return line and it goes to the fitting in between. THis is where the drain plug was and is the location to drain your hydraulic oil also. Once hooked up if all works OK you might switch some ends so not all ends on the loader are female, it will simplify hooking up. If your 3 point does not have pressure I suspect you may have sent the return line to the lift box instead of the Power beyond line.
