just got my chain back from being sharpened.....

[John_Mc]

I always attributed the curve cuts to uneven wear on the bar, actual letting teeth run not square to bar.... Spent some to squaring bar and it seems to help, still at a loss to figure out actual problem... Never thought much it to be a actual chain problem...I also flip the bar each time I do a chain ....


Dale

That can be a cause of a saw cutting on a curve. There are lots of ways a bar can get worn unevenly. Three common ones are: (1) not enough oil on the bar and chain, (2) continuing to cut when your chain is dull - often the teeth on one side will get more dull than the other, especially if you hit something other than clean wood, wearing the bar more on one side than the other (3) chain sharpened improperly, causing the teeth on one side to get more of a bite than teeth on the other - this makes the saw want to cut in circles, yet the bar in the kerf (or the operator by exerting pressure) tend to try to make the saw cut straight, putting more pressure on one bar rail than the other. Getting a pinched bar can often cause uneven wear as well (and often overheats the bar if you continue to cut with it, destroying the temper and leading to faster wear).

 

[Jstpssng]

I guess I'm lucky. I rarely touch a raker. All of my sharpening is done with a dremel with the chain on the saw. I do have a HF sharpener but I found the wheel too course. Even with light cuts it left a rough finish so I went back to the dremel. As long as I produce nice chips I'm happy.

The raker controls the depth of the cut, if you aren't taking them down then how well does it cut by the time the chain is almost worn out?

 

[ericm979]

If you sharpen the chain before it's dull and take off just enough of the teeth to make them sharp again, the required raker depth does not change much because the tooth height does not change much with each sharpening. So you don't need to check/lower the rakers often.

 

[tradosaurus]

If you sharpen the chain before it's dull and take off just enough of the teeth to make them sharp again, the required raker depth does not change much because the tooth height does not change much with each sharpening. So you don't need to check/lower the rakers often.

Agreed.

I clean and sharpen my chainsaws (3) after each use. I use the Stihl chainsaw sharpener (0.325" size). Maybe 3 passes for each tooth.

I also make sure the chainsaw is topped off with oil and 50:1 pre-mixed gas and the chain is tight.

I want to feel confident that the next time I use the chainsaw that its ready to go.

 

[Jstpssng]

You still have to take the rakers down though, as the teeth get down. Otherwise it eventually won't cut, which is why I asked how it works by the time you get toward the end of the life of the chain. I only go through about three chains a year now, but still take the rakers down as needed. Otherwise eventually they would be higher than the teeth and the saw wouldn't cut.

 

[tradosaurus]

You still have to take the rakers down though, as the teeth get down. Otherwise it eventually won't cut, which is why I asked how it works by the time you get toward the end of the life of the chain. I only go through about three chains a year now, but still take the rakers down as needed. Otherwise eventually they would be higher than the teeth and the saw wouldn't cut.

I thought the Stihl chainsaw sharpener takes the rakers down automatically if needed while you are sharpening the teeth?

 

[Jstpssng]

I thought the Stihl chainsaw sharpener takes the rakers down automatically if needed while you are sharpening the teeth?

I wouldn't know, I don't have a Stihl chainsaw sharpener. Mine is an Oregon, about 9 inches long with a wooden handle.

 

[Motorboatin]

I was at my local Stihl dealer yesterday buying a blower. While I was waiting for them to get it ready the guy behind the counter was watching an Outdoors with the Morgans youtube vid about identifying Stihl chains. He wasn't a new guy I've seen him there for years

When the sales guy is referencing chain identification vids you know the customers suffer

 

[John_Mc]

I thought the Stihl chainsaw sharpener takes the rakers down automatically if needed while you are sharpening the teeth?

Yes, it does, if you are using the Stihl 2-in-1 sharpener (which is just a re-labled Pferd Chainsharp CS-X)

 

[ArlyA]

You still have to take the rakers down though, as the teeth get down. Otherwise it eventually won't cut, which is why I asked how it works by the time you get toward the end of the life of the chain. I only go through about three chains a year now, but still take the rakers down as needed. Otherwise eventually they would be higher than the teeth and the saw wouldn't cut.

You got that right! If the rakers are never knocked down, you eventually can't cut nothing. I start to file them down, about 1/2 through the chains life. If you cuts aren't running straight, your teeth aren't the same hieght compared to the chains left/right side...

 

[crazyal]

The raker controls the depth of the cut, if you aren't taking them down then how well does it cut by the time the chain is almost worn out?

I have no problems. I tried once by eye but I took too much off and made the chain too grabby. I'm sure I'm giving up some performance but I also don't believe that a chain with it's teeth sharpened near to the end of their life will not cut if you leave the rakers alone. I only run Sthil full chisel chains and I'll keep sharpening the chain until I hit the scribe line so it's not like I'm not getting the full life out of the chains. But I also am not in a hurry. I mostly use my Dolmar 7900 so HP isn't an issue. I just let the saw do the work and watch the chips fly out. Every 2nd tank of gas I give the chain a quick touch up (or if it feels like it's cutting slow).

 

[4570Man]

I have no problems. I tried once by eye but I took too much off and made the chain too grabby. I'm sure I'm giving up some performance but I also don't believe that a chain with it's teeth sharpened near to the end of their life will not cut if you leave the rakers alone. I only run Sthil full chisel chains and I'll keep sharpening the chain until I hit the scribe line so it's not like I'm not getting the full life out of the chains. But I also am not in a hurry. I mostly use my Dolmar 7900 so HP isn't an issue. I just let the saw do the work and watch the chips fly out. Every 2nd tank of gas I give the chain a quick touch up (or if it feels like it's cutting slow).

I’d rather have a grabby chain vs one that’s sharp and won’t cut.

 

[Jstpssng]

I have no problems. I tried once by eye but I took too much off and made the chain too grabby. I'm sure I'm giving up some performance but I also don't believe that a chain with it's teeth sharpened near to the end of their life will not cut if you leave the rakers alone. I only run Sthil full chisel chains and I'll keep sharpening the chain until I hit the scribe line so it's not like I'm not getting the full life out of the chains. But I also am not in a hurry. I mostly use my Dolmar 7900 so HP isn't an issue. I just let the saw do the work and watch the chips fly out. Every 2nd tank of gas I give the chain a quick touch up (or if it feels like it's cutting slow).

That's why they make a raker gauge. I did the same thing, and it took a few sharpenings to bring it back. Yet running a dull saw is too fatiguing to me... and filing the rakers is part of sharpening the chain.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

That's why they make a raker gauge. I did the same thing, and it took a few sharpenings to bring it back. Yet running a dull saw is too fatiguing to me... and filing the rakers is part of sharpening the chain.

I agree, the rakers have to be filed down as you sharpen the tooth, IF you expect the chain to cut well.

SR

 

[Skeans1]

Also depending on tooth you need to remove the gullet as well such as on a square tooth. I normally do them every 4 to 5th grinding as well as the depth gauges self feeding is a must if you’re in a production environment why be tired at the end of the day.

 

[Rock Crawler]

I also profile the front edge of the rakers as they start to get filed flat and start developing a squared off leading "corner" that causes added grabbing. You can take a small flat hand file and radius that front corner down in 10 seconds per rake and allow it to have a sloped front edge instead a hard corner. You'll still have your newly trimmed flat peak, but get rid of that sharp leading corner. It makes me feel better about my chains.... I also use that newfangled thing that does the rakers along with the teeth at one time. I used to hand file the teeth and then use a raker file guid and flat file the rakers in a second pass. Now it is so quick and easy to spend 5 minutes before each day of cutting and "tweak and peak" the chain that it is crazy not to have this new style file system.

I use the Pferd file rather than the Stihl branded one. Man, that is a game changer for simplicity and effectiveness.

Amazon.com : Pferd 1731 Sharp CS-X Chain Saw Sharpener : Chain Sharpeners : Garden & Outdoor

 

[Jstpssng]

I also profile the front edge of the rakers as they start to get filed flat and start developing a squared off leading "corner" that causes added grabbing. You can take a small flat hand file and radius that front corner down in 10 seconds per rake and allow it to have a sloped front edge instead a hard corner. You'll still have your newly trimmed flat peak, but get rid of that sharp leading corner. It makes me feel better about my chains.... I also use that newfangled thing that does the rakers along with the teeth at one time. I used to hand file the teeth and then use a raker file guid and flat file the rakers in a second pass. Now it is so quick and easy to spend 5 minutes before each day of cutting and "tweak and peak" the chain that it is crazy not to have this new style file system.

I use the Pferd file rather than the Stihl branded one. Man, that is a game changer for simplicity and effectiveness.

Amazon.com : Pferd 1731 Sharp CS-X Chain Saw Sharpener : Chain Sharpeners : Garden & Outdoor

You're not the first person in this thread to mention that system, I'll have to check them out. I just started rounding off my rakers as you said... I"m not sure how much difference it makes but it sure looks better.

 

[5030]

Always been my view that anyone who takes their loops to someplace to be sharpened has deep pockets anyway so it don't matter how much they grind off a chain because being flush with money. they can afford it... Me, I cannot, why I do my own. In fact, just did 4 loops yesterday and set the rakers too.

 

[5030]

I also profile the front edge of the rakers as they start to get filed flat and start developing a squared off leading "corner" that causes added grabbing. You can take a small flat hand file and radius that front corner down in 10 seconds per rake and allow it to have a sloped front edge instead a hard corner. You'll still have your newly trimmed flat peak, but get rid of that sharp leading corner. It makes me feel better about my chains.... I also use that newfangled thing that does the rakers along with the teeth at one time. I used to hand file the teeth and then use a raker file guid and flat file the rakers in a second pass. Now it is so quick and easy to spend 5 minutes before each day of cutting and "tweak and peak" the chain that it is crazy not to have this new style file system.

I use the Pferd file rather than the Stihl branded one. Man, that is a game changer for simplicity and effectiveness.

Amazon.com : Pferd 1731 Sharp CS-X Chain Saw Sharpener : Chain Sharpeners : Garden & Outdoor

One in the same actually. Just different colored handles. (removed) and Stihl are identical, except the price.

The'P' is silent. It's (removed).

 

[AchingBack]

One in the same actually. Just different colored handles. (removed) and Stihl are identical, except the price.

The'P' is silent. It's (removed).

I have the Stihl model. The only thing I find wrong with the tool is the grip. It just isn't very comfortable to use. Maybe it's just me. However, the concept is great. It does a good job of keeping my chains sharp enough for the hardest wood I've cut: pacific madrone.