Just bought a F3060!

[Fields_mj]

Congrats on the new acquisition! I used to mow roughly 15 acres per day with an old F2100 (it was relatively new at the time). Great machines. I bought a used F2880 for the house a few years ago. I will admit that a ZTR would work a little better for me, but I couldn't pass up the price. FWIW, I actually put AG tires on the back end of mine. If I turn hard and fast, it can be a little hard on the grass, but not nearly as hard as what my last ZTR was (Dixie Chopper). By "a little hard" I mean that I'd have to be looking for it to find anything. I really appreciate the added traction they give me on the rear end. If I were on hills, I'd insist on having them. I don't recall what brand I bought, but I can double check tonight. They may have been Carlisle, just can't remember.

 

[Shady oak]

Thanks for the recommendations on the seat. I’ll check out some of the aftermarket options. I agree that mowing after dark is not ideal, but sometimes I run out of daylight late in the season due to my work schedule. I’m planning on getting a power angle blade and power broom for this machine to assist with clearing our long driveway in the wintertime, so a light would be helpful for that too.

I’ve never tried a zero turn because I have always lived in hill country here in WV. I did look at one of the tracked ZT mowers once, but they were mega pricey.

Bar tread tires would be an option, but they would chew up my grass. I probably just need to landscape that area with mulch and shrubbery so I don’t have to worry about mowing it anymore.

I have 2 f2560’s. The smaller version of yours. You might have a time finding a blade and a power broom for that. it took me quite awhile to find a snow blower for mine As Kubota no longer messes that mode. Also remember the broom and blade need the hydraulic Kit attachment.which is, installed, about a grand. And if you find a used broom or blade make sure the mounting kit is included. That said wonderful machine, I have had the first one, a ‘97 model for about 14 years. Only a rear crankshaft seal so far. The things are basically tanks!

 

[5030]

I see your 'bonnet' is in good of shape as mine is..lol They are available from Kubota, for a price that is... Just north of a thousand bucks... wowzer.

 

[Steelsoldiers]

I have 2 f2560’s. The smaller version of yours. You might have a time finding a blade and a power broom for that. it took me quite awhile to find a snow blower for mine As Kubota no longer messes that mode. Also remember the broom and blade need the hydraulic Kit attachment.which is, installed, about a grand. And if you find a used broom or blade make sure the mounting kit is included. That said wonderful machine, I have had the first one, a ‘97 model for about 14 years. Only a rear crankshaft seal so far. The things are basically tanks!

Thanks, Shady! I found a power angle blade for it online for around $2k. It was just too far away. Hopefully, some more attachments will pop up from time to time.

This thing is a beast! It “found” a 2’ long piece of 1/2” rebar in the weeds behind my garage yesterday (dang messy contractors) and chucked it across the yard hard enough that in punched a hole through my Hardie Plank siding and the sheathing!!

 

[Steelsoldiers]

I see your 'bonnet' is in good of shape as mine is..lol They are available from Kubota, for a price that is... Just north of a thousand bucks... wowzer.

Hahaha yeah I think the previous owner liked to mow wayyyy to close to the trees! I do body work and paint on the side. I’ll try my hand at redoing the hood and front apron sometime.

 

[5030]

I ate a cinder block that was hidden in the tall grass yesterday with the F2880. It pulverized it. Oh well, poop happens. I ordered a 2 rear anti scalp rollers and axles. They are shot and the axles are worn to points. Could probably make them in the shop but easier to order new ones. If the new rollers don't have grease fittings in them, they will. Sucker has plenty of balls. I was mowing the edges of the hat fields with it. Never slowed down at all but I am running it in low range, Having issues with the 'treadle-pedal' as well, goes forward fine but backing up, it's slow to non-existent. I need to adjust the reverse linkage I suspect and it needs a new headlight bulb but I have a spare LED left over from when I replaced them in the M9's. Just have to take the front cover off and handle that, not that I'll ever use it because I won't.

Like I stated elsewhere, the bonnet is in pretty deplorable condition and I'm contemplating fixing it or just buying a new one. Ain't cheap, over a grand for a new one. Fixing it will entail Tigging the cracks and then sanding and painting it, a winter time project. I'll probably pull all the sheet metal and redo that as well and paint the frame as well. It ris fine and my dealer changed all the fluids and filters and forgot to top off the Hydrostat. I had to add 4 quarts of SUDT to get it on the dipstick where it was supposed to be. I don't ordinary have SUDT on the shelf but I did and I used it. I don't use it in my big tractors at all. I use 85-140 GL5 gear oil in the front axle and Chevron All Weather Synthetic THF in the gear boxes. Napa is running a sale on it right now, Regular price for a 5 gallon pail is 232 bucks. NAPA is running a sale on it for $125 a pail, online. I ordered 4 pails of it. Chevron is hard to find. My jobber carries it as well as NAPA and that is about it. I like it, does real good in the winter and it comes colored orange of all things so it's easy to see on the dipsticks. Don't need to change it this year, but next year I will plus the 4 filters.

I did add my usual AR 9100 Nano-Borate additive to the motor which is SOP for me.

 

[5030]

Hahaha yeah I think the previous owner liked to mow wayyyy to close to the trees! I do body work and paint on the side. I’ll try my hand at redoing the hood and front apron sometime.

If I do mine, the cracks will have to be Tigged and filled on the outside with glazing compound. Mine is mostly cracked and no dents. I really dislike crappy looking sheet metal. Not sure if I'll fusion weld it or use filler rod, I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. One thing I know for sure and that is fixed or new, the 'Bonnet' will require some rubber isolation dampers.

 

[5030]

Way back when I managed a commercial paint and E-Coat line for an industrial cabinet maker so I did a lot of painting way back then. I do have the tools, like a Binks siphon feed / pressure feed gun and a bunch of other related stuff including a Randsburg electrostatic paint sprayer. Did a ton of Catalyzed polyurethane as well and I bet my lungs still look like crap. I used to refinish and repaint UPS trucks on the side as well. Lots of Imron back then.

 

[Steelsoldiers]

I ate a cinder block that was hidden in the tall grass yesterday with the F2880. It pulverized it. Oh well, poop happens. I ordered a 2 rear anti scalp rollers and axles. They are shot and the axles are worn to points. Could probably make them in the shop but easier to order new ones. If the new rollers don't have grease fittings in them, they will. Sucker has plenty of balls. I was mowing the edges of the hat fields with it. Never slowed down at all but I am running it in low range, Having issues with the 'treadle-pedal' as well, goes forward fine but backing up, it's slow to non-existent. I need to adjust the reverse linkage I suspect and it needs a new headlight bulb but I have a spare LED left over from when I replaced them in the M9's. Just have to take the front cover off and handle that, not that I'll ever use it because I won't.

Like I stated elsewhere, the bonnet is in pretty deplorable condition and I'm contemplating fixing it or just buying a new one. Ain't cheap, over a grand for a new one. Fixing it will entail Tigging the cracks and then sanding and painting it, a winter time project. I'll probably pull all the sheet metal and redo that as well and paint the frame as well. It ris fine and my dealer changed all the fluids and filters and forgot to top off the Hydrostat. I had to add 4 quarts of SUDT to get it on the dipstick where it was supposed to be. I don't ordinary have SUDT on the shelf but I did and I used it. I don't use it in my big tractors at all. I use 85-140 GL5 gear oil in the front axle and Chevron All Weather Synthetic THF in the gear boxes. Napa is running a sale on it right now, Regular price for a 5 gallon pail is 232 bucks. NAPA is running a sale on it for $125 a pail, online. I ordered 4 pails of it. Chevron is hard to find. My jobber carries it as well as NAPA and that is about it. I like it, does real good in the winter and it comes colored orange of all things so it's easy to see on the dipsticks. Don't need to change it this year, but next year I will plus the 4 filters.

I did add my usual AR 9100 Nano-Borate additive to the motor which is SOP for me.

Glad it digested the cinder block okay LOL. Doesn’t seem like much would slow these things down!

I need to get an anti-scalp roller for mine too. Can’t believe it’s $192!!

The headlight housing and headlight are going to run me $250, but it may come in handy some evening hahaha

I hear you on the crappy looking sheet metal. Already thinking about tearing mine down in the off season. I want to pull the rubber traction pads off and sand blast all of the rust off before priming, painting, and installing new traction pads.

That’s a great deal on the Chevron. Time to stock up!

 

[5030]

I just, priced a 2 foot length of solid core Delrin, 25 bucks delivered from McMaster Carr. Maybe I should go in the wheel business. 135 bucks is highway robbery. Far as the axles go, the issue is, they are square on one end to interface with the square hole in the inboard side of the wheel hanger so I'd have to start with square stock and turn the remainder to the correct diameter. I have the stock on hand, I don't have the Delrin. Probably buy the axles and cut the Delrin to length and bore it to the correct diameter. The Delrin is self lubricating btw.