John Deere 2140

[Ausmac]

Zebra, the bushing and pin I had trouble with was the centre pin of the mainframe part T21669 and L62839. I had minimal play in my knees so figure I will let them go until I see any wear. I did the same and made a tool to pull them in using some heavy plate and 5/8 booker rod. Yeah I think it is a plug on the rear axle housing, will dump it this morning and see if anything come out. Was thinking maybe it is a low spot in the casting to get rid of all the oil? I can not wait to see what my screen looks like. On here alone people are removing them for the first time. Mine could be the same....

 

[Ausmac]

She is a goer!!! Runs, drives, steers, lifts. For reference this is the plug on the bottom of the trumpet housing I was talking about. After draining the main plug I got about another five litres out of this plug. Took about 30 litres to fill on the dipstick. Also shown is the hydraulic screen how I pulled it out. I was expecting it to be solid. About four bits of rubbish on the end of it. I had to travel a four hour round trip to get the right filter which was a bummer. The one I got originally was an ar75603. I needed an al25554. Built in bypass valve. Was a long haul waiting for parts and learning a lot along the way but I am sure I will be back for more experience down the track. Not much I can do with it as we are getting uncommon torrential winter rain. Cows are fat and will lessen the stress of having to bale too soon. Thanks again for the expertise. Will keep reading lots of other jd posts to get on top of any problems before they get to bad.

 

[Tx Jim]

Thanks for update. I'm glad you have hyd's operating correctly. Odd thing about these hyd filters is JD spec's shows AR75603 weighs 1.08#s while AL25554 weighs 0.86 #s & costs twice as much
Jim

 

[Zebrafive]

Zebra, the bushing and pin I had trouble with was the centre pin of the mainframe part T21669 and L62839. I had minimal play in my knees so figure I will let them go until I see any wear. I did the same and made a tool to pull them in using some heavy plate and 5/8 booker rod. Yeah I think it is a plug on the rear axle housing, will dump it this morning and see if anything come out. Was thinking maybe it is a low spot in the casting to get rid of all the oil? I can not wait to see what my screen looks like. On here alone people are removing them for the first time. Mine could be the same....

OK, those bushings I have not touched in my 2030. dropping the axle is lot of work!

 

[Ausmac]

Not out of the woods yet guys. 6 hours of slashing (bush hogging) and this happened. Is it a load shaft out to do or can you do it from each side by pushing it through each way?

 

[Tx Jim]

Yes seals can be replaced by pushing L/D control shaft in on each side to access seals for R&R. Downside is if shaft has sufficient wear to require replacement then hyd oil will require draining to re[lace shaft. Be sure to utilize shim washers to remove any side to side motion from shaft. Side to side motion of shaft accelerates wear on seals.

Ironically I just got my JD 4255 back from JD dealer a week ago having engine overhauled. Due to the fact that hyd oil must be drained to remove engine oil pan I had "new hyd oil" installed at JD dealer. I noticed yesterday that the L/D seals on my tractor similar to your tractor are dripping oil. :thumbdown:

 

[Ausmac]

Is there a shim part number Jim? Was just looking, there is two different numbers for the seal arrangement, was there an upgrade? Jd parts has two, #痴 34,35,36,37 and another breakdown #痴 41,40,39,36,37. I can give you a list of the part numbers if it helps. That is no good about your leak mate, hopefully they did not fill your reservoir with that nasty 303 oil I have been hearing about ha ha. I used an oil textrans Tdh premium. A lot of local farmers have given it the green tick of approval. One bigger contract farmer uses it in all his green gear, 8430, 6930, 4430, 3130 and old faithful 2130. They have a lot of equipment so I guess they know what works. A 20 litre 5 gallon drum of hy guard here will set you back $180 aud.

 

[Tx Jim]

Dealer charged for me for 15 gallons of Hy-Gard for total of $164 for hyd oil Shim washers for your tractors L/D shaft are shown in photo below

 

[Zebrafive]

Dealer charged for me for 15 gallons of Hy-Gard for total of $164 for hyd oil Shim washers for your tractors L/D shaft are shown in photo below

I think I paid more when I changed my oil, but I bought in 5 gallon pails, yours might have come from dealer's bulk tank at a better price.


To Ausmac, note their are two different IDs for the shim washers, key 5.

 

[Ausmac]

So I found out why my seals were leaking. The purple seal is meant to have an o ring behind it in the bushing. Mine had none. After 3 phone calls with the dealer he was not even sure we had it right. There is a lot of variation in the seal arrangement I have been told. I reckon I will be pushing my luck to get an o ring and seal into the bushing groove, it is only barely big enough for the seal. I have read to soak the seal in hot water to make it easier to install. Do I put the o ring in first and then the seal or try and do it together? Also I have the 25mm 1 inch shaft. EDIT I have also had trouble reinstalling the load shaft doing a test run. I have the draft arms lowered and L/D set to D. It is pushing the shaft away from the true centre, can not seem to get it past the plug it rides on.

 

[Tx Jim]

The way I comprehend the 2130 parts catalog seal(key 16) is only a single type seal but it's inside ID is 0.976 IN

 

[Zebrafive]

Is it possible the tractor had the seal/O ring combination and it was replaced (in the past) with the single seal?
I am not sure how you would verify what it should have.

 

[Ausmac]

Jim the dealer was leaning towards me having keys 12 13 and 14 from the page you attached. The seal I am getting is L171436 which I believe is an upgrade from L60162 (key 16). I googled both part numbers and the look the same. He also added an o ring which he says goes in behind that seal. I do not see how. I think Zebra has it in that with the upgrade they eliminated the o ring altogether.

 

[Tx Jim]

It's a mystery to me why so many different part # s were offered for bush/seals for a model 2130

 

[Ausmac]

Me either mate. Virtually any other jd of that size and era has a parts list and that is what you order. I am not sure, get the parts home and see if the o rings fit, if not throw them over my shoulder and insert the sealing washer and see if it holds by itself? I kept the transmission oil drums which I decanted the new oil I just changed back into them. Have a feeling it might not be the last time I do this....

 

[Ausmac]

Also can not for the life of me get the load shaft back in. My load control arm does not move. I made sure it was in D before shutting down. I would have thought key 21 would have moved back toward the front in the D position. Maybe key 21 was pushing on the load shaft the whole time? Can I force that part 21 out of the way without upsetting the rest of the hydraulic system? Have I uncovered another problem?

 

[Tx Jim]

You could try screwing negative stop screw(keys 22 or 23 or 26) in further which should move pin(key 21) further from location of L/D control shaft

 

[Ausmac]

Ok I will try that when the new parts get here. If I adjust that will that affect anything else? I remember you saying there is a set of rules to adjusting the lift assembly that must be followed exactly to the manual. I am wondering if it all needs to be set properly and if this was part of the reason it seemed out. Have not done a lot with it but it never seemed to be right. In D it would not lift all the way but in LD it would.

 

[Tx Jim]

If & when you get L/D shaft installed you need to readjust the linkage as outlined in TM if you desire the 3 pt to operate as designed.

 

[Ausmac]

Sorry for all the simple (to most) questions. If I am being a pest, please let me know. I just haven't worked on this type of hydraulics and don't want to break something beyond repair. The set up is a lot different to the Massey Ferguson equipment I have worked on. Also, if you think I should start another thread in the correct topic section seeing as this has changed direction from the original questions, please let me know.
Ok, the negative stop screw which will push the load control arm back enough to get my load shaft through the bushings, where is it? Can it be accessed from the outside? A guy has a video on youtube doing one on a 3020, but he removes a plug up near the top link mount. In my drawing, the adjustment bolt looks to be real low down, just above key 21. Also, if I follow the 9 adjustments to set it up correctly, #1 says to just touch the adjusting screw to the load control arm then back off 1/8 turn. If I force the arm forward using the screw, will I damage anything? I am trying to get away from removing the rockshaft cover, but eventually I think it is going to have to happen so I can see what I'm dealing with. As i said in an earlier post, I made sure i had the control lever set to D but it didn't move key 21. Took quite a bit to get the load shaft out. That's why I think it's bigger than a simple adjustment.