John Deere 1050 Engine Opinion

[TimberHole]

The last head I pulled had a crack in each of the three chambers. The cracks were near the hole for the injector and all three chambers were cracked in exactly the same place. The old time machinist grumbled something about "they almost all crack there". I asked him if he could repair it and his response was, "of course I can". He pinned the cracks and all is good. Thank goodness for the old timers that really know their stuff.

 

[kleinhhl]

Well that's encouraging news... one of the cracks appeared to be a spider pattern but the other two were simple cracks... the machinist at my shop recognized the head immediately as a Yanmar so hopefully he's able to fix it as well. If not, it looks like a reconditioned 3T90T-J head is between $700 and $1000.

 

[kleinhhl]

Hey Timberhole, do you happen to remember or know the dimensions of the head studs for these 950 & 1050 tractors? My measurements indicate a definite 1.5mm thread pitch but the diameter seems to be 15mm which is an odd size metric stud. I can't find any actual thread chasers or restorers in M15x1.5 size. I'm a little hesitant to use a regular cutting tap to clean the stud holes in the block for fear of ruining the threads.

 

[TimberHole]

I have a couple leftover studs that I replaced and I'm measuring the same thing. I'm headed to the hardware store, I'll take a stud and see if I can match it. I just cleaned the external threads with a wire brush. I double nutted a stud and ran it in and out a few times with some penetrating oil to clean the internal threads. I would also be very careful using a tap as you definitely don't want to remove any material

 

[TimberHole]

Definitely M15x1.5.

 

[kleinhhl]

Okay, thanks... I'll use that method to clean the threaded holes in the block. I'm just waiting for the machine shop to get back to me about the head. They were just finishing the hot tanking on Friday and told me the magnaflux would be done by Wednesday of next week.

I plan on measuring the rod bearings with plastigage and pulling the sleeves/pistons/rods next weekend. We've had lots of rain here this past week and this weekend so it makes progress hard.

 

[kleinhhl]

Today I was able to measure the bearing-to-journal oil clearance with plastigage for all three rod bearings. They all measured within 0.003 in which is within the JD 1050 spec for new parts (0.0016 to 0.0035 in). The wear tolerance is 0.005 in. Bearings looked good with minimal scuffing.



I was also able to pull the first piston and sleeve. The sleeve actually looks pretty good with minimal pitting. I'll have to measure the bore to see if it is within specs. The piston and rings look good too. The sleeve o-rings were toast but I'm guessing by pulling the sleeve, they would get somewhat destroyed in the process. The sleeve o-rings looked like every other o-ring and gasket on this tractor that I've replaced since I bought the tractor... baked, dry and cracked.



I'm still waiting for word from the machine shop on the head. They were supposed to be done today.

 

[TimberHole]

Hopefully your sleeves mic good. I didn't see the pitting on my sleeves until I cleaned them up. Mine were pitted near the top oring.

Are you replacing the rod bolts? Everuone I talked to said I should so eventually I caved and bought new bolts. I'm still not convinced the old bolts weren't ok. I did notice the manual didn't mention replacing these bolts. It did specifically state the flywheel bolts were to be replaced which makes me think the rod bolts may not need replacing since it wasn't specifically mentioned. I'm not convinced all rod bolts are tensioned to the point they are stretching.

 

[TimberHole]

A little thread drift.........

My front hubs (MFWD) were leaking like a spaghetti strainer. I've been working the last few nights to reseal. It's amazing to me that the gears look new after all these years and 2,800 hours. These are tough old tractors and well worth the effort it takes to maintain them.

 

[kleinhhl]

I have the rod bolts on the list of parts for the engine rebuild but I'm not sure I need to replace them either. The torque spec is 47 ft lbs and they appear to be M10 bolts but I'm not sure what class (10.9, 12.9, etc) they are. They are about $11.50 a piece...

I'll have to clean everything up and look closely for pitting too. It would be quite a bit in savings if I didn't have to replace the sleeves.

I have to reseal the front hubs and axle on my MFWD as well. I've been putting it off until the engine was sorted out but I know that is next in addition to re-sealing the Selective Control Valve for the rear hydraulic remotes.

By the way, this is the hydraulic joystick I've been considering for control of the front loader to free up the rear remotes: 3 Spool 25 GPM Joystick Loader Valve w/Grapple | Directional Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

It would give a third function to control a grapple or angle a snow plow. I would plumb it in before the rear remote SCV via the power beyond port.

Also, got a call from the machine shop while writing this and they say the cracks in the head through to the valve seats and quoted $1200 to fix. I can get a fully loaded brand new head from Hoye Tractor with valves / seats installed for $950... bummer.

 

[TimberHole]

Thanks for the link. I like the idea of a third function. Might need to pick your brain on that later.

Did they say how they would fix that head? Were they welding or pinning? I got the impression not many folks weld heads anymore. I spent $450.00 on my last one and that included pinning 3 cracks and of course all the valve work. I'll call him later and ask if he can pin a crack that extends into a seat.

 

[TimberHole]

I have the rod bolts on the list of parts for the engine rebuild but I'm not sure I need to replace them either. The torque spec is 47 ft lbs and they appear to be M10 bolts but I'm not sure what class (10.9, 12.9, etc) they are. They are about $11.50 a piece...

I'll have to clean everything up and look closely for pitting too. It would be quite a bit in savings if I didn't have to replace the sleeves.

I have to reseal the front hubs and axle on my MFWD as well. I've been putting it off until the engine was sorted out but I know that is next in addition to re-sealing the Selective Control Valve for the rear hydraulic remotes.

By the way, this is the hydraulic joystick I've been considering for control of the front loader to free up the rear remotes: 3 Spool 25 GPM Joystick Loader Valve w/Grapple | Directional Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

It would give a third function to control a grapple or angle a snow plow. I would plumb it in before the rear remote SCV via the power beyond port.

Also, got a call from the machine shop while writing this and they say the cracks in the head through to the valve seats and quoted $1200 to fix. I can get a fully loaded brand new head from Hoye Tractor with valves / seats installed for $950... bummer.

I called the machine shop I've been using and they said they do repair cracks that extend into the seat area. They pin the crack and then install an oversize seat. They acted like it wasn't anything unusual. I asked him about cost and he acted like the crack in that area didn't add any big costs. I expect their charge would be between $400 and $500, although it is admittedly a bit of a crap shoot. With guys like them I just drop it off and tell them to fix it. They are good people and have always been more than fair with me.

 

[kleinhhl]

Thanks Timberhole for finding out that information from your machine shop. I ended up buying new aftermarket head from Hoye Tractor Parts with new valves and valve parts. I hope I made the right decision. There was a core charge to send the original head back but I may keep the original head just in case the aftermarket one doesn't work out.

I haven't made much progress on the engine rebuild. This past weekend, we had 70 mph wind gusts and sustained 40 - 50 mph winds. We lost power over the weekend and we had two big trees come down on the property. One is still leaning against another tree and I have to get a tree company in to take that one the rest of the way down.



Need to buy a new head gasket and rings. Still have to clean up the sleeves and pistons and give them a good look...

 

[TimberHole]

Have you thought about about having your radiator boiled and serviced? Seems like going thru the water system would be cheap insurance for that new head. I did this on both my tractor's and spent about $100.00 per radiator. Just a thought.

 

[kleinhhl]

I would but I recently bought a new radiator for the tractor when I was troubleshooting pressure loss in the radiator. The original radiator was pretty rough and was leaking at several places in the core. I thought about having the original radiator re-cored but I ended up buying an aftermarket one. I also bought new coolant hoses and thermostat...

 

[kleinhhl]

Hey Timberhole, I cleaned up one of the sleeves today and see some pitting down around where the o-rings would sit. Question is whether the pitting is bad enough not to reuse the sleeve. I guess it could come down to a choice as I the sleeve bore doesn't look to bad and measurements indicate it is still within spec...



Would you reuse it?

 

[TimberHole]

That's the very same pitting I saw on mine. The worst pitting is above the top oring. The witness mark for the lower seal is clear in the pic and the surface doesn't show any pitting at that location. I'm guessing the lower seal will seal perfectly and the top seal might seap a little.

Would I use the sleeves? Yes, if they mic good.

I would consider putting a little stop leak in the radiator. It won't hurt anything and would help seal any minor imperfections at the top seal. Either way I think the sleeve will seal. Obviously you can't go wrong buying new sleeves but they are expensive and these in frame repairs are not really full overhauls. Have to draw the line somewhere. That's my $.02.

 

[kleinhhl]

Just wanted to update this thread and thank TimberHole for all of his advice. My Dad and I spent last week (~6 days of work and 10 hour days) rebuilding the engine in the JD1050. At certain times, we weren't sure if the thing would go back together and we made one major screw up that we were able to fix relatively fast. But I can say now that the tractor runs and purrs like a kitten. Everything seems great...

We started the first few days by pulling the other two sleeves / pistons and cleaning them up. There was some scuffing on the pistons but nothing too major. The oil control rings on all three pistons broke when they came out though. We thought this was a result of an overheating event or water in the oil in the past.

After spending a lot of time cleaning and preparing all of the new parts, we got everything back together Friday night down to the last bolt tightened and started to fill the radiator with water. Well, we heard lots of water dripping and it was coming from the head gasket area. We were completely devastated. These JD1050 tractors have two head gaskets depending on a serial number break and I had called a JD dealer with my S/N and was told to order the early head gasket based on my S/N. When we put it on, we noticed that the fire rings on the head gasket laid on top of the raised edge of the sleeve that sits above the block surface and not around it. We figured that this was the problem and fortunately, I had the later S/N head gasket in stock that I had previously ordered thinking it was the right one.

Well, after dinner on Friday night, we pulled the head again and replaced the head gasket with the correct one. It was a marathon but I think we pulled the head and got it back together in less than two hours which is pretty good, in my humble opinion.

It wasn't until Sunday that we were able to fire her up but after bleeding the fuel lines, she fired right up and ran beautifully. Hardly any smoke at all! I'm running JD break-in oil in her and the proper JD Cool-Guard II coolant now. I'm hoping for years more service from this tractor.

I don't have many pictures, so sorry about that. The next job is to sort out the hydraulic system which I believe is getting air into it from a leaking SCV, cylinders and old hoses.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Air can not enter the sisteme on the pressureside !

 

[TimberHole]

Good deal. I wondered how you made out. I'm not sure what the difference is between the two head gasket part numbers. There is an early 8 bolt head and the later 10 head. The 10 bolt gasket can be used on an 8 bolt head so now everyone sells the 10 bolt gasket. I wasn't aware of any differences beyond that.

Did you split the tractor or did you do it in frame? Just curious as I had to make some pullers to replace the crankshaft bearings. Just wondering if you went thru all that.

Regardless, congrats on keeping another old tractor going for many more years!