Jinma 254 current owner with Y385 engine help questions

doxford jim · May 11, 2015

I am not sure what that plug is for - maybe it is for power beyond to use with another piece of equipment. If it is, it might work, but you would need to add reducing bushings.
I drilled and tapped into mine to get the pressure gauge installed. I had a spare valve block that I modified and it works just fine.
Maybe someone else who is more "hydraulic savvy" could chime in and comment. I have found out by making mistakes and it gets to be expensive. With a bit of luck J.J. or someone else will help.

quicksandfarmer · May 11, 2015

You can tee in for a gauge. Normally on a hydraulic system you can't tee, the flow has to have a single path, but since there is no flow through the gauge it's OK. You can't use regular plumbing fittings, you have to use hydraulic fittings, plumbing can't take 2000 PSI.

What I would do is get a pair of quick-attach couplings and a tee. When you need a pressure reading disconnect the input to the FEL and put the gauge inline. Take it out when you don't need it.

acadian32 · May 11, 2015

Good evening quicksand, I will want to end up with a visible hydraulic gauge permanently and yes will get all hyd rate to 2200 psi, right now im trying to figure out if I could use what seem to be a spare in out put on my spool valve see picture

quicksandfarmer · May 11, 2015

acadian32 said:
Good evening quicksand, I will want to end up with a visible hydraulic gauge permanently and yes will get all hyd rate to 2200 psi, right now im trying to figure out if I could use what seem to be a spare in out put on my spool valve see picture View attachment 424487

It's not a spare in or out port, it's a power beyond port. If you want to put a gauge in permanently take off the input hose and put a tee between it and the valve. You need to be upstream of the valve to get an accurate reading.

acadian32 · May 11, 2015

Okay that's what I will do thank you very much for the help. now I wonder if there is some hydraulic blue print / schematic on line for the jinma 254 layout of all the plumbing this sure would be handy to have to really understand all lines location and functions except the attachments such as loader

acadian32 · May 13, 2015

Good evening all. My Jinma is back in service what a relief I received the new pump and part from Tommy store " great service by the way " seal all my fittings added new psi gauge of the FEL of a T and the best trick was posted here to push air from the tank fill plug to the pump before starting tractor and OMG I see the PSI come up and 3pt / power steering alive I say alive... i could not have pulled this off without this forum and friends I made here... Guys thank you all so much... I was saying to my wife this weekend well its a nice tractor and so what if it never works I know people who purchase art to put on there walls that paid 4 times what I paid for my tractor so if it never works again I said to her I will disassemble it all and rebuild it in my man cave lol... she smile and said well there you go baby thats an idea... she felt real bad that my tractor was not working and she help along the way to get it to go now thats a good women... anyway the only thing I have yet to resolve is the FEL lift is extremely slow and i know this is due to me playing around with the FEL relief valve so i got a new spring and will give that a try this weekend, if that does not work i will have to see if I have air in my loader lines what do you guys think? the last time I played with this relief valve is when all this happened however now that i have the psi gauge i could keep an eye on it while i adjust the screw 1/4 " at a time.

SPIKER · May 13, 2015

glad its working!!

quicksandfarmer · May 13, 2015

acadian32 said:
Good evening all. My Jinma is back in service what a relief I received the new pump and part from Tommy store " great service by the way " seal all my fittings added new psi gauge of the FEL of a T and the best trick was posted here to push air from the tank fill plug to the pump before starting tractor and OMG I see the PSI come up and 3pt / power steering alive I say alive... i could not have pulled this off without this forum and friends I made here... Guys thank you all so much... I was saying to my wife this weekend well its a nice tractor and so what if it never works I know people who purchase art to put on there walls that paid 4 times what I paid for my tractor so if it never works again I said to her I will disassemble it all and rebuild it in my man cave lol... she smile and said well there you go baby thats an idea... she felt real bad that my tractor was not working and she help along the way to get it to go now thats a good women... anyway the only thing I have yet to resolve is the FEL lift is extremely slow and i know this is due to me playing around with the FEL relief valve so i got a new spring and will give that a try this weekend, if that does not work i will have to see if I have air in my loader lines what do you guys think? the last time I played with this relief valve is when all this happened however now that i have the psi gauge i could keep an eye on it while i adjust the screw 1/4 " at a time.

Glad to hear everything is working. If the FEL is slow, it's probably because either the oil you are using is too thick or there is debris inside the valve. The relief valve is unlikely to be the problem -- unless it is set so low it is bypassing with no load. Your gauge would tell you that -- if the pressure never gets very high when you're using the FEL that would be suspicious (assuming you put the gauge on the input to the FEL valve).

Since you messed with the relief valve already, and you have a gauge on the system now, you can set the relief valve. If you move any cylinder to the end of its range once it hits the stops the pressure will max out and the valve should relieve. (Be careful doing this as if the relief is too tight you could blow out your nice new pump. If the pressure jumps over 2000 back off immediately.) According to the book the pump is rated for 2200 psi so I would set this around 2000. If you can't get 2000 psi with the cylinder against the stops then something is up.

If you can get 2000 psi from the 3point hitch but not the loader something is up with the loader valve. If you can't get pressure anywhere something is up with your pump.

D0TC0M · May 19, 2015

acadian32 said:
Question 2. I have is the oil pressure sender sensor has 2 connections and only a purple wire is connected to the sender and my oil pressure gauge is reading high almost to 10 and when I disconnect the purple wire the gauge still stays to 10, the only time the gauge goes back to zero is when I shut off the engine any chance one of you current owner could take a picture of the color wires going to the sender?

Hi my fellow acadian

After reading how your oil pressure gauge is reacting I believe your oil pressure wire is on the wrong terminal. Please refer to the explaination of the oil pressure sensor.

RonMar said:
the sensor is a dual function unit, one terminal to ground provides a path to drive the low oil pressure idiot light, so it is a short circuit measured to ground with engine off/low oil pressure(light on), and an open with engine running and normal oil pressure(light off)

The other terminal drives the oil pressure gauge. This terminal to ground is about 10 ohms with engine off/low oil pressure and 80 ohms to ground with engine idling.

acadian32 · May 19, 2015

D0TC0M said:
Hi my fellow acadian After reading how your oil pressure gauge is reacting I believe your oil pressure wire is on the wrong terminal. Please refer to the explaination of the oil pressure sensor.

Good day Dotcom, I figured out the problem, one bad sender and 2 the new sender when it stamp G does not = Ground

so all is good thank you for your comments