New owner of tractor (diesel engine question)

[geosnooker2000]

I just bought a Ford 3000 diesel (with power steering... yay!). I have never owned a tractor, other than a lawn tractor before, and I have never owned a diesel engine before. This thing is in rough shape, but I got it for $1500. I suspect there may be some engine issues. May need a re-build. IDK. So, I'm about to ask a stupid question, and I don't care if you want to make fun or whatever... I have watched about 4 or 5 videos on "Ford 3000 diesel rebuild" or something similar. I can not find a video that answers my question. Where are the "spark plug" wires? I see this guy and his son working on the injectors in one video, replacing them, and the valve cover is there, and there are no other holes in the top of the head, and no wires??? I thought diesel engines used glow plugs, which are similar to spark plugs. Somebody take me to school. Does this thing not have a distributer?

 

[gengine]

There are no spark plugs, therefore no need for wires. Glow plugs only aid cold starts, i.e. below 30°F. Some diesel engines don't have them, your 3000 may be one that doesn't. If it starts and runs, but runs rough, especially at higher RPM's, injectors and injector pump rebuilds are common.

 

[geosnooker2000]

Thank you. I thought I was taking crazy pills... That's kinda cool. No need to worry about points and advance timing!

 

[WinterDeere]

I used to use a Ford 3000 on occasion, spent hundreds of hours working on the ground next to one, as my friend skidded the logs I was felling with his 3000. Great little tractor, but his was a gasser model.

You might do well to have a diesel mechanic give the engine a once-over. As gengine mentioned, injector pumps and injectors are where it's at. But one day in a pro shop may have that thing running and starting nicer than anything you'll DIY on it, and that will pay off this winter, when the thing doesn't want to start.

Diesels hate the cold, some more than others. If it's a Wyoming tractor of that age, I assume it already has a block heater, if not also an oil pan heater. Check and verify their current draw is near expectation, as a sign that they're working well, before winter.

If it has a glow plug system to aid with cold starts, there will be an indicator on the dash for that, a light that comes on when it's cold and goes off when it's properly warmed. But assuming the indicator works is one problem, and getting the thing to actually trigger in August is another, a lot of tractors won't even switch that system on at all in this weather. Figuring out how to verify operation now will save you frustration in November or December.

Changing all fluids on any used machine I purchase is usually assumed, unless the prior owner had fastidious records of when they were last done. Even then, engine oil would be done by my own hands.

 

[EdGooding]

I just bought a Ford 3000 diesel (with power steering... yay!). I have never owned a tractor, other than a lawn tractor before, and I have never owned a diesel engine before. This thing is in rough shape, but I got it for $1500. I suspect there may be some engine issues. May need a re-build. IDK. So, I'm about to ask a stupid question, and I don't care if you want to make fun or whatever... I have watched about 4 or 5 videos on "Ford 3000 diesel rebuild" or something similar. I can not find a video that answers my question. Where are the "spark plug" wires? I see this guy and his son working on the injectors in one video, replacing them, and the valve cover is there, and there are no other holes in the top of the head, and no wires??? I thought diesel engines used glow plugs, which are similar to spark plugs. Somebody take me to school. Does this thing not have a distributer?

The 3000 is a great small utility tractor. Practically a bullet-proof engine. You can download a free owner's manual here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Operators Manual All Purpose and LCG Tractors 2000,3000,4000,and 5000.pdf

Basic info on features and specs here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Ford 3000 Series Tractor Data & Spec Sheet.pdf

 

[geosnooker2000]

I used to use a Ford 3000 on occasion, spent hundreds of hours working on the ground next to one, as my friend skidded the logs I was felling with his 3000. Great little tractor, but his was a gasser model.

You might do well to have a diesel mechanic give the engine a once-over. As gengine mentioned, injector pumps and injectors are where it's at. But one day in a pro shop may have that thing running and starting nicer than anything you'll DIY on it, and that will pay off this winter, when the thing doesn't want to start.

Diesels hate the cold, some more than others. If it's a Wyoming tractor of that age, I assume it already has a block heater, if not also an oil pan heater. Check and verify their current draw is near expectation, as a sign that they're working well, before winter.

If it has a glow plug system to aid with cold starts, there will be an indicator on the dash for that, a light that comes on when it's cold and goes off when it's properly warmed. But assuming the indicator works is one problem, and getting the thing to actually trigger in August is another, a lot of tractors won't even switch that system on at all in this weather. Figuring out how to verify operation now will save you frustration in November or December.

Changing all fluids on any used machine I purchase is usually assumed, unless the prior owner had fastidious records of when they were last done. Even then, engine oil would be done by my own hands.

Appreciate the thoughts. I am actually in Tennessee, so, no "harsh" winters here. And I would very rarely want or need to use the tractor in freezing weather. Probably never. As far as I can see (I was able to rotate the battery tray out to get a look), there are no glow plugs.

On the fluid changes, etc., I will before I return the tractor to use, but I'm thinking during the diagnostic period, I'm not going to fill the radiator with fresh coolant just to find out if it has a leak. I'm not going to change the oil before I determine if the block needs to be rebuilt. Just top off all the fluids until I get it operating, and then change out all the fluids for new.

One thing I need to get fixed first is cleaning the fuel tank. There is lots of sludge that I don't want to send through the fuel system.

 

[TractorTYMe]

Compression ignition engines are void of ignition components, one of the blessings of a hard working engine vs gasoline. Go over the fuel tank, replace fuel filters, then bleed the fuel system after you've verified all of the tank, lines and filters are clean before attempting to start.