JD 54C Deck--wheel bushing

[sgoldste01]

I'm replacing the gauge wheels on my JD 54C deck. I purchased the new wheels (AM125172), which come with replacement bushings. But I can't see how to remove the existing bushings (which are badly worn) from the axle bolt.

I'm guessing there's something obvious I'm not seeing. Suggestions?

Thanks,

Steve

 

[beenthere]

If you have new wheels with new bushings, why do you want to remove the existing bushings that go with the used gauge wheels?

Post a pic (as that will save me from going out to the shed and taking a wheel off my 54C deck ). We can go from there.

 

[sgoldste01]

The existing bushing is badly worn on the bottom, where I'm pointing in the first attachment.

The new gauge wheels came with new bushings (see 2nd attachment), and I'd like to use them instead. But I can't figure out how to get the old bushing off of the threaded bolt that you see in first attachment.

Ideas?

 

[beenthere]

Have you tried a hammer? Just tap on it and it should pop loose.

A pipe wrench to turn it some will likely work too.

Use the bushing that matches the old one.

 

[Mistyridgefarm]

Got some bad news. Your deck is the newer version that does not use the replaceable spindles. My 345 uses the bushings, the GX345 does not. You will have to get new spindles. Be careful as there is different pn on each corner.

I just replaced mine this year. I think they were like $39 a piece.

 

[sgoldste01]

Got some bad news. Your deck is the newer version that does not use the replaceable spindles. My 345 uses the bushings, the GX345 does not. You will have to get new spindles. Be careful as there is different pn on each corner.

I just replaced mine this year. I think they were like $39 a piece.

Hmmm, that's too bad. I wonder if they can be drilled out and then refabricated with common hardware.

 

[beenthere]

Yep, sorry to see that too.

Might try cutting that one off, and drilling it out for a through-bolt.

But exchanging the wheel kit for the spindle might be the easiest route to take. And looks like (from jdparts) that there is a s/n break on the right part.
Only the left rear deck wheel takes the wheel kit that you have.

 

[sgoldste01]

Yep, sorry to see that too.

Might try cutting that one off, and drilling it out for a through-bolt.

But exchanging the wheel kit for the spindle might be the easiest route to take. And looks like (from jdparts) that there is a s/n break on the right part.
Only the left rear deck wheel takes the wheel kit that you have.

Can you explain how/what you figured out on jdparts? I looked there, and couldn't figure out how to identify the P/Ns for the spindles I need. I only need the front two spindles; the rear two are fine.

What's interesting is that the gauge wheels I bought (AM125172) are exactly what is recommended on the attached document. But notice that the spindles aren't even identified with a P/N.

 

[beenthere]

I looked up GT245 under the model search in jdparts. Then to Attachments to get to the mower decks. From there alphabetic to Wheels under W.

Here it shows 3 different arms (spindles) for LF, RF, and RR. Shown is the LF item # 24
Hope this helps some.

 

[sgoldste01]

I looked up GT245 under the model search in jdparts. Then to Attachments to get to the mower decks. From there alphabetic to Wheels under W.

Here it shows 3 different arms (spindles) for LF, RF, and RR. Shown is the LF item # 24
Hope this helps some.

There's something different about how you're navigating through JDparts, and how I do it. Attached is what I end up with; notice how I only have access to the common "consumables", like the gauge wheels, but I don't see an Illustrated Parts List, and I don't see the arms/spindles.

I can't seem to duplicate your results. :confused2:

 

[acs55812]

Is that a bolt/bushing or shoulder bolt?

 

[beenthere]

Not exactly sure, but when I get to the home page and after I sign in, then I click on the JD Parts Catalog (book cover image - see arrow) and go to this page next (add the model in the blank). That takes me to the second page and under model search can go to attachments and then to the decks.

 

[sgoldste01]

Is that a bolt/bushing or shoulder bolt?

I think it's a bolt/bushing, but I've attached a picture of the backside so that you can see for yourself.

It seems to me that I should be able to drill the "axle" bolt out from the backside, and then perhaps replace it with a shoulder bolt over which I would install the new bushing that came with the gauge wheel. Does this seem like a reasonable approach?

I find it surprising that I would have to replace the whole vertical assembly (the part with the holes that are used to adjust the gauge wheel's height off the ground) in order to replace the worn bushing. I would expect JD to design parts for better maintainability than that, expecially when you get up to a robustly designed product like the LX and GT series tractors.

 

[sgoldste01]

Not exactly sure, but when I get to the home page and after I sign in, then I click on the JD Parts Catalog (book cover image - see arrow) and go to this page next (add the model in the blank). That takes me to the second page and under model search can go to attachments and then to the decks.

OK, thanks. The secret was that I needed to create an account and log into the site. What I showed you is what you see if you browse the site without logging in first.

 

[sgoldste01]

So now that I've figured out how to access the Illustrated Parts List on JDparts.com, this raises a new question.

They provide two part numbers for each arm. For example, the Right Arm is either P/N AM131288 or AM120680. Which one would I order? Or can I use either one? Is one better than the other? For example, if one has replacable bushings and one doesn't have replacable bushings (like my existing arms), I'd prefer to order the one with replacable bushings.

 

[Stormtruck2]

Thank you gentleman for showing me how to access this resource. I was just using the old paper manual, which may have been superseded since 02:laughing: by new numbers. This is a very helpful resource. This is a great forum. Thanks again guys

 

[kennyd]

I have a quick JDParts tutorial linked in my signature you may find useful.

 

[Mistyridgefarm]

Good luck drilling! I tried it and it is pretty hard steel. When I complained at the parts counter about the bad design, they said the mower wasn't meant to ride on the ground. I guess they were not aware of the jd floating deck quality advantage. At least the one that was in all the sales pitches I heard growing up.

 

[acs55812]

I think it's a bolt/bushing, but I've attached a picture of the backside so that you can see for yourself.

It seems to me that I should be able to drill the "axle" bolt out from the backside, and then perhaps replace it with a shoulder bolt over which I would install the new bushing that came with the gauge wheel. Does this seem like a reasonable approach?

I find it surprising that I would have to replace the whole vertical assembly (the part with the holes that are used to adjust the gauge wheel's height off the ground) in order to replace the worn bushing. I would expect JD to design parts for better maintainability than that, expecially when you get up to a robustly designed product like the LX and GT series tractors.

That looks like a allan head on the backside to remove a shoulder bolt.

 

[beenthere]

Good luck drilling! I tried it and it is pretty hard steel. When I complained at the parts counter about the bad design, they said the mower wasn't meant to ride on the ground. I guess they were not aware of the jd floating deck quality advantage. At least the one that was in all the sales pitches I heard growing up.

The parts man was right, the Deere decks are meant to be carried (if adjusted right). And there is a greas zirk on each wheel that will take grease to reduce the wear considerable amount.

I think the decks being carried (deck wheels not touching unless to keep from scalping) goes back to the original 110's in the middle 60's. But I could be wrong.