About to get started on a pole barn. The builder uses foil backed bubble insulation. Would it cause any issues putting roll insulation between it and the interior wall? What would be the best option for putting insulation in the roof. Using metal trusses.
Insulation
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gstrom99
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I've heard/read that the bubble wrap insulation is pretty useless and can trap moisture, on the roof anyway.
RustyA
Platinum Member
We used the foil roll insulation between the metal roofing and the purlins in an uninsulated pole building. It was designed to help control condensation on steel roof in cold climates. I've been in bare roof pole barns where it actually rains inside when the roof sweats on cool humid days from melting frost.
Ours never sweated except in the lean to that the roll insulation was not installed.
Ours never sweated except in the lean to that the roll insulation was not installed.
m1garand762
Gold Member
Before you commit to a pole barn do some research on ICF we are building our house cheaper that way and it’s actually a lot better than using wood
Fallon
Super Member
Last o saw a few years ago ICF was 15-20% more than stick built. Better insulation, air tight construction, massively reduced noise, "bullet proof" & a host of other benefits though. Would likely be what I eyed up if we ever end up building a house (or new shop).
m1garand762
Gold Member
The quotes we got for our house were 6%less than stick built, but I am building it myself it’s not hard and you can take the class for the license online in a few hours. Not naming brands but we went with the only brand of block that is green in color
Fallon
Super Member
Could very easily be these days. It's probably pushing decade at this point since I looked into it. We ended up buying rather than building, so I stopped looking into it.
dieselscout80
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Our new garage is being built and we had them instal the bubble insulation directly behind the sheet metal. The manufacturer website says it’s up to R6.
When it’s done I want to add more insulation to both the ceiling and walls.
The structural steel tubing is 2.5” square on five foot centers.
Options
1. adding a second layer of the bubble insulation but stick it to the inside of the steel tubing creating a 2.5” dead air space between the layers of bubble insulation. Would this give me a higher R value than just the two layers of bubble insulation?
2. add 2” foam boards between the posts without compressing the bubble insulation. and use spray foam to secure/ seal them. What R value should I get?
3. for the ceiling I may blow in say a foot of fiberglass insulation and the walls could w done with option one our two.
When it’s done I want to add more insulation to both the ceiling and walls.
The structural steel tubing is 2.5” square on five foot centers.
Options
1. adding a second layer of the bubble insulation but stick it to the inside of the steel tubing creating a 2.5” dead air space between the layers of bubble insulation. Would this give me a higher R value than just the two layers of bubble insulation?
2. add 2” foam boards between the posts without compressing the bubble insulation. and use spray foam to secure/ seal them. What R value should I get?
3. for the ceiling I may blow in say a foot of fiberglass insulation and the walls could w done with option one our two.
I've seen many articles that comment on how the bubble insulation r-value isn't accurate. It's really only R-1.5 or so. It works well as the 'outer' layer for a pole barn though as it won't be damaged by water and doesn't support birds or mice nesting in it like fiberglass batts.
Personally, I'd go with the rigid foam board as your second layer. XPS, EPS, and polyiso have different r-values per inch and different characteristics -- if I remember correctly, XPS insulative value degrades over time and polyiso's insulative value declines as temperature drops, but EPS has the lowest R value per inch. I'd verify that, though, as my memory may have jumbled up those details.
Did you exclude batts in the walls for some reason?
Personally, I'd go with the rigid foam board as your second layer. XPS, EPS, and polyiso have different r-values per inch and different characteristics -- if I remember correctly, XPS insulative value degrades over time and polyiso's insulative value declines as temperature drops, but EPS has the lowest R value per inch. I'd verify that, though, as my memory may have jumbled up those details.
Did you exclude batts in the walls for some reason?
ROUSTABOUT
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You are fine as long as two vapor barriers aren't against each other. I've built things with extra insulation behind the metal building insulation. Have each vapor barrier facing toward inside building. Put double batts above ceiling tiles below vinyl insulation. Did walls too. Over 20 years ago and no problems. You can get 9" batts for the wall. Of course you can get less, but batts are the way to go. I have built many projects as a contractor.
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