I started my backhoe Root Ripper.

[BukitCase]

Sounds like you "got the T-shirt", but no - 33E20, occasionally "loaned out" to other 33 classes - had classrooms close to some 05's tho, can't help thinkin' I'd have been even crazier if I'd ended up there ...Steve

 

[Gofast]

I slayed my first root. It was actually getting dark so I only did a very quick test.
I did dig a few scoops with my backhoe just to test to quick attach. Then I swapped it for the root ripper.
The swap only took a couple minutes.

 

[the old grind]

98J20 I like the more coarse teeth, and that fewer of them will need 're-pointed'. (GoFast, did teeth how I would have) To 're-sharpen' teeth, preheat the part, cob on some "hard-facing" rod with your buzz box, and wrap it in your f-glass welding blanket to cool slowly.

A little goes a long way. It's what's used to rebuild edges and wear surfaces on blades and buckets. (ever see a cross-hatch of beads on one?) It grinds like AR 500, ie: barely at all, but an edge doesn't need to be sharp, just irregular. A bunch of warty welds is as good as regularly-spaced teeth and wouldn't require more hp.

btw, my ripper is short and broad, with no teeth. It's good for loosening up autumn olive by the roots for the brush grubber, but it's little better than the 16" bucket on tree roots. (Stump grinder requires a lot less dress-up and back-fill afterwards, so I don't dig as many stumps as I used to.)

 

[Gofast]

@The old grind
I really like the idea of hard facing. I read “bluehog” root ripper and that is what he did to his ripper. (He had some cool tools to make his)
I ordered some hardfacing mig welding wire. It seems like a good solution.

I have a Hobart 210 with a spool gun. This 1 pound spool should work good in my welder. I also have a fair amount of fiberglass welding blanket to wrap it up with.
Post a picture of your root ripper.

 

[the old grind]

Here's what MICHIGAN IRON AND EQUIPMENT built just for me thumbsup. I say it's 'overbuilt' for my small but strong Terramite, and I couldn't be happier with it! Of course, being sort of short from pivot to point I can throw myself out of the seat as easily with it as with the std bucket.


If the TM ever getts sold, the ripper will stay and be adapted to its replacement. If you like how it looks, you should see my MIE Hound Dog 48" HD grapple.

Here's a 2010 pic of white poplar stumps I dug up in '06 with the OEM 16" bucket, the year I bought the T-M and later retired from GM. They've since rotted and been composted. I was ten pounds lighter then, if you didn't recognize me.

 

[Gofast]

Wow that thing looks strong. My little tractor could never handle that. I have seen a couple of their designs on this site they all look built very strong.
How do you like the steel on the back? It looks like that would help you move some dirt to uncover the root.
I have considered adding that feature to mine. I have some extra ½ and 3/8 plate.


I had bought a harden tooth to go on the end of mine but change the design along the way.
If I don't like my current design I can allays add the tooth to it.

My hardfacing mig wire will be here Friday.

 

[the old grind]

I just measured 22" from tip to center of pivot, hoping to give you some scale for comparison. I suspect you could move dirt to the sides with your tooth better than I could push or pull with mine. Thinking I'd want it moved to the side when approaching a root perpendicular to it. That squared back is only 8" wide. Y'know, the more I compare our two the more impressed I am with yours, esp that QA bit. :thumbsup:

I doubt that our machines are much different, esp since you have the stronger MF CB 65 BH option. (Compact T5C will drive thru' a 4' wide gate) You have more hp & weight & I a tad more reach/depth, but IMO our machines can't be much different in o'all digging ability. (Case/IH 1.1L DX26 is similar size but lighter, too)

btw, I commend you for a TOPICALLY RELEVANT THREAD TITLE that means folks can actually find it for future reference. (Sure beats something like "Finally started it!" or similar near-miss) Man, have you considered building and selling a few more?? :scratchchin:

 

[Aquamoose]

Do you have a post with pictures of your tree puller? I would like to see it very cool. I will have to see if I need to temper the front of the ripper with a torch. I did see couple of others that did not do this they just cleaned it up after every few uses. I thought about welding on the front teeth weld seems very hard.

I saw the SWAG table but I wanted to be able to chop with it also. So far I have used it chopping a little more than standing.

I did chamfer the new pin ends that I made. That really helps a lot.

As you requested...







I was interested in MIE’s ripper and I can see the reason for their design which helps.

I would think that the “domino stack” teeth would clog quickly. I would think that the downforce would be greater and would benefit better than the upforce with regards to cutting. If it slips, it would just go into earth or other roots and wouldn’t buck the tractor if it slips going upwards. Just my thoughts. I would think that the A500 steel should withstand wear. My grapple is made out of it and it’s tough steel.

Love learning from each other!

 

[BukitCase]

"I would think that the domino stack teeth would clog quickly. I would think that the downforce would be greater and would benefit better than the upforce with regards to cutting. If it slips, it would just go into earth or other roots and wouldn稚 buck the tractor if it slips going upwards."

All valid points; I still haven't decided which cut direction my first attempt will be, might be one of those projects that ends up beyond V2.0

When I actually get to the build, the "dominoes" will get attached with medium light stitch welds til I try it out on a few 6-8" roots. My initial plan (based on absolutely NOTHING tangible other than gut feel) is to drive down behind (past) the root, crowd up against it, then "saw" BOTH up and down (keeping a bit of crowd pressure on). Thought here is that WHICHEVER way the teeth are done, ONE direction would CUT and the OTHER would (hopefully) CLEAR...

If not, my "fallback" plan involves my PM45 and a scarfing tip, hence the "not too heavy" welds on the dominoes til I know "which way they fall"

The ripper will likely get something similar to MIE's back plate, seems like a LOT more force could be applied to a root when using BOTH forces, lift (boom) and pry (curl)

My ripper tooth will be at least 1" thick steel, considering the 9000# breakout on my machine -
TractorData.com J.I. Case 58B Construction King industrial tractor attachments information

Or at least I HOPE it will be, there's still a few more tweaks/repairs I need to do

Oh, and I really appreciate any/all pics of the QD's, I've taken to using a blunt air chisel to drive pins (1-1/2" diameter) in and out - easier, but still NOT fun... Steve

 

[Gofast]

@Aquamoose That is a very nice build. It looks nicer than some of the ones I see company's selling.

I went out and tried it on the fence line. I was not taking out big stuff but it worked great.
Yes I did have a big smile it was fun.
I was pleased with it so far. I only took out one stump maybe 5"-6" not real big. No problem at all.
I timed switching from root ripper to bucket it took me one minute to switch.

 

[Gofast]

I just measured 22" from tip to center of pivot, hoping to give you some scale for comparison. I suspect you could move dirt to the sides with your tooth better than I could push or pull with mine. Thinking I'd want it moved to the side when approaching a root perpendicular to it. That squared back is only 8" wide. Y'know, the more I compare our two the more impressed I am with yours, esp that QA bit. :thumbsup:

I doubt that our machines are much different, esp since you have the stronger MF CB 65 BH option. (Compact T5C will drive thru' a 4' wide gate) You have more hp & weight & I a tad more reach/depth, but IMO our machines can't be much different in o'all digging ability. (Case/IH 1.1L DX26 is similar size but lighter, too)

btw, I commend you for a TOPICALLY RELEVANT THREAD TITLE that means folks can actually find it for future reference. (Sure beats something like "Finally started it!" or similar near-miss) Man, have you considered building and selling a few more?? :scratchchin:

Thanks for the nice remarks. I do hope others will gain from this post. Sharing ideas with people with all different experience it great.
I will have to put the QC through its paces to make sure there are no issues during extended use. If I ever made more I would have them laser cut then make a good jig to weld it.
I would have alpha and bata testers… getting way ahead of myself.

At this point I am just very happy mine it working. My hard-facing mig wire comes in tomorrow.
This weekend I need to get moving on my 16” bucket I will probably start a new post for the bucket. There are some pretty cool bucket builds one here already.

 

[BukitCase]

Glad your ripper's working out; and your QA is a DEFINITE winner over the approximate 30 minutes mine takes :thumbdown:
If you have any more pics of that part, please don't be shy :thumbsup:

I would ALSO be interested in your MIG hardface wire, all I've used is Stoody stick. Works fine on longer beads, but there's been a couple things I tried where the total area was only 3/4" wide (box blade ripper pockets) - by the time you get the stick "lit up", you're DONE Soooo, if you have a link/name/part#, etc, please post - thanks... Steve

 

[Gofast]

I really had a hard time finding a small roll. I did not need very much and I read it was very soft so I wanted to use my spool gun.
Blue Demon 55FC-O X .035 X 1LB Spool flux core gasless hardfacing welding wire is what I ended up with.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G5GI3DO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was very pleased with the QA. One min to switch between attachments. This is quick enough that you switch to what you need during a job.
I can get more pictures of the QA.

I have a 10" bucket I am making a 16" bucket.
I keep going back and forth if I need another bucket at all. If so what size 12" or 14"

10" should be find for trenching and 16" for digging bigger holes and backfilling where FEL can not get.
Even typing it out I am not sure that a bucket size between 10" and 16" would be useful.
I probably have most what I would need to make another bucket but I would have to but bucket teeth and those are not cheap.
Enough rambling for now.

 

[the old grind]

Aquamoose, your puller looks well suited to my puny NH 110 TL FEL (/7108/7308 'on paper'). I especially like your 'brush catcher' since we typically rely on curl to work 'em loose, and stuff tips. D-ring is something to notice, a nice touch.

btw, you have the tractor I 'want' and I have a HD puller that could use your FEL's far greater lift and curl power. Pivot pin & bushing on the moveable jaw are 3" vs smaller ones on taller, braced jaws with a bearing at the top too. Make both easily on the lathe, if ever. Mind you, this was nearly $1400 OTD, and many like it are as much.


Gofast, I like you pics, and now I gotta have a thumb, too. :duh: (aka "surgical grapple"?)

 

[Gofast]

I did a small change on the pin I take out on my QC. I welded a flag on it so you can get ahold of it to pull it out.
I know the pin steel is not good for welding but this is not structural at all.

 

[Gofast]

I took it out yesterday and put it to work.
I think I am going to adjust the tip so the thumb will close more so I can get a better grip on smaller stuff.
I have the power to rip out small stuff if I could grip it tighter.
I under estimated how useful the thump would be with this. It is supper useful and with a small change I should be able to make it work better.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Maybe your next project could be to add a hydraulic cylinder to your thumb. Exceptionally useful.

 

[Gofast]

Maybe your next project could be to add a hydraulic cylinder to your thumb. Exceptionally useful.

How do you control the thumb?

 

[downsizingnow48]

I added a double valve in the hydraulic circuit, in between the loader valve and the backhoe. One valve controls the thumb, the other controls the grapple.

 

[Aquamoose]

I added a double valve in the hydraulic circuit, in between the loader valve and the backhoe. One valve controls the thumb, the other controls the grapple.

Now you got my attention. Details & pics?