I started my backhoe Root Ripper.

[the old grind]

... Does anyone know where I can get some bucket pins for my quick connect, they need to be 30 mm or 1 3/16.
the factor pin is 127mm or 5" so it would need to be 5.5" with pin on the end. They do not need to be greasable because they are on on the QC and don not move.

Go to a local steel supplier and buy 'stress-proof' steel round in choice of diameter and 1 pc total length for the pins you'll make (u cut to length w/hacksaw or bandsaw or their $2-3/cut?). Material has a tough, smooth, accurately-sized surface and finish. That said, be warned that you just can NOT weld 'keepers' on ends, but you design to drill/tap for those with even your DeWalt 18v cordless.

It's an easy-working ('free-maching' in the trade) steel alloy which is why it won't weld with any rod or process yet known. Otherwise "stress proof" is a well known/used bottom-price, top-performing, DIY-friendly material for pins that one can work with almost as easily as aluminum or brass. The first pin I made for the backhoe sold me on it to use for all since. t o g

 

[downsizingnow48]

For my pins I get 25mm round bar from McMaster Carr and cut to length. They have lots of different kinds, I get the cheapest. The local steel supplier has cold finished round bar in inch sizes, which is less expensive than MC, but they do not have mm sizes.

McMaster-Carr

 

[Gofast]

Thanks for the pin info!

Here are a couple more pictures of my new QC.







I need to clean up my welding/steel and put a coat of paint on it the root ripper.
Once I have some pins, I can try it out the QC and the root ripper.
Next up is making my 16 bucket but that is for another day.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Nice job on the coupler!

 

[Gofast]

Thanks.
There was a lot of work that went into it before I could have it tacked welded together and test it with a bucket to make sure it would work well.
Once I knew it would work, I was all set.

It is loosely based off pictures of the Bxpanded QC the BX backhoe is similar the my GC 1710

 

[downsizingnow48]

On the topic of getting the most from your hand held bandsaw. I made a table for my DeWalt about 4 years ago. It is very accurate and versatile. I use it weekly. I can't say enough good things about that DeWalt saw. It is flawless after literally years of steady use.

In the photos I am making parts for my new backhoe thumb, 3 pieces of 3/8 x 5 in flat bar, 7-3/32" long. And 2 pieces of tube for temporary spacers, also 7-3/32". Easy peasey.

 

[Gofast]

Wow! Nice bandsaw table.

 

[TMGT]

I'll second using 1144 stressproof for pins, been using it for years and works great. You can actually weld it. I wouldn't trust the weld for heavy structural applications but have welded retainers to the end of pins and they hold up just fine (tig welded).

If you can get it in TGP (turned, ground, polished) for close the same price go for it, I've had some 1144 not be as round as I like for pins.

 

[Gofast]

Thanks so much for the advice. I just picked up 3 foot 1144 TGP $39 OTD. My local place only caries TGP but that will work for me.
I will have to cut it and drill it for pins.
This is enough where I can leave one pin in each backhoe attachment.

 

[Gofast]

I made two pins so far. These pins are just a tiny bit bigger. They fit but I need to adjust my quick connector a little.
I think I will chamfer the outside edges like the factory ones. I think that would help some.

 

[uintas]

Wow ! I'm so jealous ! Very clever setup, impressive. Keeping this hacksaw table jig in a corner of my mind, maybe someday ...

 

[Aquamoose]

You’re inspiring me to make a ripper. Not there, but closer. My concern is the necessary hardness to withstand wear on the serrated cutting edges.

I’ve build a tree puller (fun to make) so welding & fabrication isn’t lost on me.

As for portable band saw setup, I use one from SWAG. It’s a stand that can quickly be detached for mobile use. They have neat stuff.

 

[Gofast]

Do you have a post with pictures of your tree puller? I would like to see it very cool. I will have to see if I need to temper the front of the ripper with a torch. I did see couple of others that did not do this they just cleaned it up after every few uses. I thought about welding on the front teeth weld seems very hard.

I saw the SWAG table but I wanted to be able to chop with it also. So far I have used it chopping a little more than standing.

I did chamfer the new pin ends that I made. That really helps a lot.

 

[BukitCase]

A ripper and thumb are ALMOST visible on my project list; here's a crude paint sketch of my tentative tooth plan, with a smaller than industrial size hoe you'd need to scale it accordingly... Steve

 

[Gofast]

@BukiCase
That is funny. I just bought a set of AR500 targets to make a shooting tree. (another welding project) I was wondering if anyone had used some AR500 on their ripper.
Do you know of anyone that has used this design? I would love to know how it performs.

 

[BukitCase]

"Do you know of anyone that has used this design? I would love to know how it performs."

Not exactly, just looked at a LOT of rippers - several with teeth, some so aggressive the hoe would probably pull the rest of the tractor over on top of ya

Best I can offer is - I've built a lot of projects, and MOST work as I envisioned (some after version 2.0, most with no, or minor, tweeks) - been retired since 2013, last 35 years as instrumentation tech in heavy industry (rare metals), last 10 running a rotating shift maintenance crew with 2 electricians, 2 millwrights, 2 pipe fitters, 2 weldors, 2 machinists, and 1 instrument tech (me) - to a man, when I put in my retirement papers (I wuz already 67) they did their best to talk me out of it; they all knew they'd never find another "leader" that'd work as hard to keep them safe AND actually know what they did, make actually USEFUL suggestions, etc... Steve

 

[Gofast]

That is the nice thing about this forum. There are people with lots of great backgrounds and real work experience.
That’s not my background I was an Electronic tech in Navy then I worked in Information Tech and now an IT consultant/programmer.
I do research a far amount for my projects. These are my biggest welding projects so far. This is the first time I have dealt with ½ thick and 3/8 thick metal for my projects.
I will be trying out my ripper soon but if it does not perform as I want, I will be changing it. I have a fair amount of material to work with. It is always good to hear other ideas.


My ripper is ½ thick I probably could use scrap AR500 for the teeth. One of the target places might even sell some scrap cheaply.

 

[BukitCase]

Sounds like we had similar backgrounds for at least PART of our lives; I spent 4 years in the Army Security Agency back in the '60's, cold war electronic snooping stuff - graduated tech school top of my class, agency needed 2 more instructors so spent next couple years teaching, then a year TDY as a trouble-shooter all over the place - when I got out, first job was with Memorex - video tape division first, later on a design team in their digital development lab (when hard drives were same size as your washing machine) - started my own company (moonlighting at first) in TV and recording studios maintenance/repairs, moved to Hawaii for a couple years (Startup company, video/audio sales/service, calibration lab) then back to Oregon shortly after my dad died, nothing in Oregon paid crap in electronics at the time so found a job in instrumentation, etc...

Probably the main diff between us - when I was 9, Dad bought a little 1 acre piece of raw property to build a house on - it sat right on the road, but on a cutbank so the property was about 7 feet ABOVE the road. He found a used "mini-cat", little baby dozer with a 9 horse crank-start motor, mechanical 3ph, mechanical blade, found a used "slip" - think "wheelbarrow without wheels, no front tip-up, longer handles, pivoted cross-bar with a hole for a chain - one person drives the tractor, other holds the handles down and tries NOT to get flipped over it - Since Dad outweighed me by about 90 pounds at the time, I got to drive - Beginning of an addiction :thumbsup: - Next door neighbor had a small logging operation, saw how much fun I had with the TOY cat, next day I got to drive a D8 up in the woods; addiction now fully formed

Lot MORE water under THAT bridge, but I'm ALREADY good enough at sidetracking threads :laughing:...Steve

 

[BukitCase]

" I probably could use scrap AR500 for the teeth"

Good luck tryin' to GRIND any of that; I got away with torch cutting on one job replacing wear strips on my 2' hoe bucket (AR400) - about 12 years ago I had the strips plasma cut by steel supplier, then 7018 stitch welds/heat-bend with torch, stitch, repeat... Before I started, I didn't like the edges of the strips. Too sharp and rough, and I didn't think it'd be fun to bump an elbow on the bucket when walking around the tractor, so I grabbed my 9" grinder, clamped 'em in a vise - it took about 30 minutes PER STRIP to put enough of a chamfer on the edges to even NOTICE...

That's why, on that sketch I did I briefly mentioned how I'd do the "dominoes" - first thing would be to set my "flange wizard" to cut @ 45 degrees, and "rip" the long way on a 3" wide strip; THEN I'd cut however many dominoes I needed off that beveled strip, and mount the point of each bevel AWAY from the ripper (see sketch).

Doing it that way would save trying to cut a dozen or so LITTLE pieces at an angle, cause I doubt you're gonna cut that stuff with anything LESS than O/A or plasma, unless you have access to a laser or water jet... Steve

 

[JPRambo]

Bukitcase, 05G20?