I have a bad feeling about this

[deereman75]

I don't understand why everyone always talks like calcium is some evil thing from the past on this forum.... It is still by far the most widely used tire ballast, and for good reason. It's economical, heavy, every tire service truck has a tank/pump for it (and not the alternatives) and it doesn't freeze.
Washer fluid is substantially lighter than calcium. Rimguard is no good in colder climates, only being good to -35. And if you are in an area where calcium is the most common ballast, tire service outfits will most likely refuse to work on your tires with an alternative since it'd contaminated their pump system.

Yeah it will rust the rims eventually. But there are tens of thousands of tractors that have had calcium in the rears for 30+ years and the rims are still good. Most people on this forum are unlikely to ever have to replace a rim due to calcium. And new rims are cheaper than a set of tires anyhow....

 

[big bubba]

don't be too hard on yourself
the ol' timers here in the Ozarks did fill w/CaCL, etc, what they could in their time.
there are mobile ag tire services around, just check w/them. will save you a lot of headache.

gone are the days when i come along a loaded (but punctured) rear wheel over a branch, then haul it in. do yourself a favor & have it serviced on site, maybe don't wait too long otherwise you'd be replacing a wheel as well
good luck

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

From the picture posted it appears the rims are not showing that bad of damage ..so far... The leak seems slow enough to buy you enough time to find options.. Be that new, used rims.. Tubes, clean and bondo bad spots, what ever is available in your area to solve the issue... It appears you have time, use time quickly and wisely... Do they still use bondo in auto body repair work ??

I understand salt water was a cost of doing business in a time for agriculture people.. They use a lot of it here in high volume tires on logging equipment.. It does tick me off that no one distributes a better product for small tractors in this area, but likely don't because of low volume meaning low margin for the product..

Our tractor came with salt ballast that I wish it had not.. That kind of expense is not going to be easy to handle for retired people.. But hopefully I can have a solution in mind and on hand when necessary..

Good luck..

 

[nfisheremti]

usually when dealers put in calcium chloride, they pump it into tire tubes to avoid the corrosion issue. i've had it in my old B2400 for 26 years with no issues. putting it in tires without tubes is just irresponsible. the only way to know for sure, and to fix it, it to drain the tires, and dismount them. check the wheels for rust, and take it from there. there are tons of alternatives to calcium chloride now, but it's still the heaviest and cheapest. it's enough cheaper to afford tubes

 

[5030]

I'm not equiped for any of this :-( I guess I'll call the shop where I bought it tomorrow.

Call farm tire service and have them handle it. You don't want to fool with draining CACL anyway. I guarantee if you do, wherever you dump it, nothing will grow there for years. A farm tire service will have a vacuum pump to evacuate it and they will dispose of it properly plus, they have the proper tolls to do the dismount and will probably have access to replacement rims if the rims are shot and it looks to me like they most likely are.

I don't fill my tires, I run cast centers instead.

Also, keep in mind that once the CACL starts corroding the steel, it keeps on corroding it no matter what you do.

 

[SylvainG]

I've called a place and waiting a call back. It's a holiday here in Canada so I'm not expecting a call back until tomorrow.

I'm not equipped to handle 300lb loaded tires on a 4,000lb tractor so I'll live it to professionals.

 

[SylvainG]

I don't understand why everyone always talks like calcium is some evil thing from the past on this forum.... It is still by far the most widely used tire ballast, and for good reason. It's economical, heavy, every tire service truck has a tank/pump for it (and not the alternatives) and it doesn't freeze.
Washer fluid is substantially lighter than calcium. Rimguard is no good in colder climates, only being good to -35. And if you are in an area where calcium is the most common ballast, tire service outfits will most likely refuse to work on your tires with an alternative since it'd contaminated their pump system.

Yeah it will rust the rims eventually. But there are tens of thousands of tractors that have had calcium in the rears for 30+ years and the rims are still good. Most people on this forum are unlikely to ever have to replace a rim due to calcium. And new rims are cheaper than a set of tires anyhow....

Then why are mine leaking after just 11 years?

 

[newbury]

<snip>Most people on this forum are unlikely to ever have to replace a rim due to calcium. And new rims are cheaper than a set of tires anyhow....

Depends on your dealer.
I just bought a set of new rear Turfs for my B7610 and the Tires AND Rims were cheaper than the tires alone.

 

[CoyPatton]

Tractor is 11 years old and I believe they were filled (Calcium Chloride) by the original owner at purchase. How scr*wed am I? Both rear tires are like that. I doubt it's the valve because on the other side, the valve is not even at the bottom. It has a salty taste.

View attachment 716205

Deal with this sooner rather than later. If it has a salty taste, then you are likely correct in your assessment of fill material. It was one of the most popular until recent years.
The longer you wait to deal with it, the more damage to your rims. Calcium-chloride was death to rims frequently (rusted out to the point of unsafe). Call who you bought it from, you might get lucky and have sometime of warranty (although I doubt it as rusted out rims often require replacement).
as others have said, pump it out (ag tire shop is best bet) then get the tire and tube off, wash down the rim good. Let it all dry, then wire brush the rust, check the rim closely for damage. Assuming the rims are usable.
I now suggest good careful metal treatment. Start with a rust convertor. Many brands are available. Then a good primer, I like self etching. If you want paint feel free, this is a great time to redo the externals of the rims as well. If doing so paint it all.
Use new tubes and clean the tires up carefully as well.
Consider if you want filled tires, if yes use an environmentally friendly option.

 

[deereman75]

Depends on your dealer.
I just bought a set of new rear Turfs for my B7610 and the Tires AND Rims were cheaper than the tires alone.

I just had to do both on my payloader. The set of rims was nearly $2000 less than the set of tires

 

[deereman75]

I've called a place and waiting a call back. It's a holiday here in Canada so I'm not expecting a call back until tomorrow.

I'm not equipped to handle 300lb loaded tires on a 4,000lb tractor so I'll live it to professionals.

Most ag and industrial tire outfits are on call 24/7/365. It usually just costs more to have them out at night, holidays, ect.


As to why they are leaking sooner, if your tires don't have tubes (check the valve stems) that would be a reason. If they've had a puncture and the rims weren't washed before remounting or if they were reassembled with calcium left between tire and tube, ect. Variety of reasons.

A set of tires and rims for a tractor as small as yours are not going to be that big of a bill, these things happen, it's just part of owning equipment. I've had repair bills of more than a machine cost in the first week.

 

[lens12]

[SIZE=3]deereman75[/SIZE] GAVE THE BEST RESPONSE. iF YOU HAVE TUBES $ CHLORIDE IS LEAKING, GET THE TUBE REPAIRED RIGHT AWAY. Rims RUST OUT WHEN THE OWNER WAITS TO GET IT REPAIRED. MOST OF MY TRACTORS HAVE CHLORIDE. MY jd2030 IS TUBELESS & THE RIMS HAVEN'T RUSTED. ​

 

[SPYDERLK]

Then why are mine leaking after just 11 years?

Oxygen is necessary for the corrosion. Tires squirm enough to allow some in at the bead and the CaCl is right there too. Insignificant seeming, but the smallest intermix reacts to make itself worse. Thats why the sealer, which would have been good to include in the original fill, is still a well directed approach. It addresses the problem at its root.

 

[deereman75]

For what it's worth, most reputable tire service outfits will not put calcium in without tubes. It's just bad practice. "Tubeless" tires are still perfectly capable of having tubes installed.
Properly installed and maintained there is really no drawback to calcium. Combine that with being cheaper and heavier than anything else, and it explains why none of the alternatives ever really caught on.

Rimguard and such may be fine for those of you down south, but tires don't tend to work well when 3/4 full of ice.... That's the biggest reason it will never replace calcium

 

[Quebecguy]

Rimguard and such may be fine for those of you down south, but tires don't tend to work well when 3/4 full of ice.... That's the biggest reason it will never replace calcium

According to the chart on this web site beet juice and calcium chloride are both good to -35° F.

Rim Guard’s Beet Juice is the leading liquid tire ballast option | AGDAILY

With the Original Beet Juice Tire Ballast, you’ll maximize pulling power and reduce the risk of tipping -- all while protecting your rims from corrosion.

www.agdaily.com

 

[deereman75]

According to the chart on this web site beet juice and calcium chloride are both good to -35° F.

Rim Guard’s Beet Juice is the leading liquid tire ballast option | AGDAILY

With the Original Beet Juice Tire Ballast, you’ll maximize pulling power and reduce the risk of tipping -- all while protecting your rims from corrosion.

www.agdaily.com

Calcium chloride can resist freezing as low as -62f

Again not a consideration everywhere, but in a place like Saskatchewan where -50F isn't unheard of, freezing at -35 is a bit of an issue

 

[Ishkatan]

You can drain the fluid out of the wheels into buckets. Just get plastic tubing that fits tight over the valve stem and a valve core removal tool to remove the valve stem. Try to put the tractor above the bucket - you may get several bucket fills per wheel so need to have a place to store or dump it - large plastic garbage can will work to hold it. I dumped min on weeds. A year later the weeds are back.

You can take the wheel to a tire shop - google your are for places that deal with tractor tires or truck tires. Or you can check youtube how to remove it yourself - you want to have good long tire irons and it is a PIA but doable if you have a bit of muscle or leverage (And a friend).

Once the tires are off, check the rim for rust - brush loose rust off and use rust restorer to turn the remaining thin layer of rust black. May need a couple applications. Then use good metal paint.

While you may be able to go tubeless, I recommend using tubes once you have the wheels off. They cost a little bit but provide isolation of any fluid from the rim. You can have the wheel shop order inner tubes or get them online. WalMart sells them if you can't find them cheaper elsewhere.

You can re-use the Calcuim Chloride in tubes but the valve stems will corrode after a few years and start a slow leak you may not notice until the rim is rusted through. You have to watch for leaks and get the valve replace regularly or replace the inner tube. If the stuff leaks on your rim you could get significant corrosion. I got a 2 inch hole and very rusty rim. Yes, you can have it welded ... or buy a new rim like I did. 2 part rim so only $125 US for the . After the 2nd rim in 25 years I decided to get rid of the CaCL and find other options, for now, nothing in the tires. My implements are heavy enough for my 8N and the old tractor is happier going up hill.

When you have the shop remount the tires on the rims (with inner tube?) don't have them fill it. Lots of youtube videos on how to fill the tire yourself... What works for your area depends on freezing points. In some areas tire shops will send someone to your place, but in urban areas that can be hard to find. You just have to have patience to do it yourself.

Not filling your tires can give a better ride if they are "just right" and absorb shock but metal weights can be expensive. You can get inventive and make your own balast to go on the 3 pt hitch.

Of course if you have a truck you can rent a trailer and take the tractor to the shop and have them do it all ... much easier.

 

[ning]

Personally I'd shoot the dog that's p*ssing on your tractor tires and giving you such a fright

 

[SylvainG]

You can drain the fluid out of the wheels into buckets. Just get plastic tubing that fits tight over the valve stem and a valve core removal tool to remove the valve stem. Try to put the tractor above the bucket - you may get several bucket fills per wheel so need to have a place to store or dump it - large plastic garbage can will work to hold it. I dumped min on weeds. A year later the weeds are back.

You can take the wheel to a tire shop - google your are for places that deal with tractor tires or truck tires. Or you can check youtube how to remove it yourself - you want to have good long tire irons and it is a PIA but doable if you have a bit of muscle or leverage (And a friend).

Once the tires are off, check the rim for rust - brush loose rust off and use rust restorer to turn the remaining thin layer of rust black. May need a couple applications. Then use good metal paint.

While you may be able to go tubeless, I recommend using tubes once you have the wheels off. They cost a little bit but provide isolation of any fluid from the rim. You can have the wheel shop order inner tubes or get them online. WalMart sells them if you can't find them cheaper elsewhere.

You can re-use the Calcuim Chloride in tubes but the valve stems will corrode after a few years and start a slow leak you may not notice until the rim is rusted through. You have to watch for leaks and get the valve replace regularly or replace the inner tube. If the stuff leaks on your rim you could get significant corrosion. I got a 2 inch hole and very rusty rim. Yes, you can have it welded ... or buy a new rim like I did. 2 part rim so only $125 US for the . After the 2nd rim in 25 years I decided to get rid of the CaCL and find other options, for now, nothing in the tires. My implements are heavy enough for my 8N and the old tractor is happier going up hill.

When you have the shop remount the tires on the rims (with inner tube?) don't have them fill it. Lots of youtube videos on how to fill the tire yourself... What works for your area depends on freezing points. In some areas tire shops will send someone to your place, but in urban areas that can be hard to find. You just have to have patience to do it yourself.

Not filling your tires can give a better ride if they are "just right" and absorb shock but metal weights can be expensive. You can get inventive and make your own balast to go on the 3 pt hitch.

Of course if you have a truck you can rent a trailer and take the tractor to the shop and have them do it all ... much easier.

Thanks. Lots to ponder about. Snow removal season is upon us. I don't want to have the tractor unusable and working in the cold is a PITA.

Personally I'd shoot the dog that's p*ssing on your tractor tires and giving you such a fright

Wish it was that simple lol

 

[Hay Dude]

Thanks. Lots to ponder about. Snow removal season is upon us. I don't want to have the tractor unusable and working in the cold is a PITA.


Wish it was that simple lol

Take the calcium out and replace with cast wheel weights or a 3 point weight box.