I did it. Roast and discuss my choice. (sharing experience + numbers for others)

[Saucymynx]

Ill say your post made me dig into front mount blowers a lot more than I have previously. It's pretty nutty the options that are available, the prices seem like they are pretty nuts as well. I'm not completely against it, but I think for now the rear mount makes the most sense for me. Forgive me if I'm wrong, but if I was to get stuck for whatever reason, I can use the loader to help push or pull me out a few inches right? That's my primary reason right there, as far as plowing a light snowfall, can I just use the bucket? its 84" should be able to get the long part of the driveway in 1 down and back I think.

Either way, I'm going to keep the front blower in mind. IF on year one if I find myself hating the rear, maybe Ill give the fronts another look.

I looked at an Erskine front mounted blower but just couldn’t deal with not having the front loader all winter. It turns a multipurpose tool into a single purpose tool. Also, while most people don’t mention it, a rear mounted blower is much more maneuver wall because it is much closer to the center point of rotation of the tractor. Much nicer for getting into tight places without tearing things up . As I set an in my previous post, I’ve had no neck or back discomfort. Maybe if you have pre-existing neck conditions that might be a different story.

 

[arrow]

Ill say your post made me dig into front mount blowers a lot more than I have previously. It's pretty nutty the options that are available, the prices seem like they are pretty nuts as well. I'm not completely against it, but I think for now the rear mount makes the most sense for me. Forgive me if I'm wrong, but if I was to get stuck for whatever reason, I can use the loader to help push or pull me out a few inches right? That's my primary reason right there, as far as plowing a light snowfall, can I just use the bucket? its 84" should be able to get the long part of the driveway in 1 down and back I think.

Either way, I'm going to keep the front blower in mind. IF on year one if I find myself hating the rear, maybe Ill give the fronts another look.

I can guarantee that with just one attempt of plowing your 500 foot drive with just the bucket, will make you pull whatever hair you have on your head right out. If you have a full head of hair, it's going to hurt real bad.
This is why I suggested the plow. No going back and forth. Controlling the windrows to just one side of your desire and making long sweeping runs that take minutes. The plow will be the fastest snow weapon you have. With the quick attach, you can put back the bucket in minutes if you need it for clean up carrying snow away.
As far as getting stuck, it is far more conducive to get a set of chains for your tractor tires if you're worried about this.

Let me get to the point: in my experience from what I've confronted and listened to, I'd get the rear blower as back up and consider the front plow as my main snow removal tool.

 

[Saucymynx]

I can guarantee that with just one attempt of plowing your 500 foot drive with just the bucket, will make you pull whatever hair you have on your head right out. If you have a full head of hair, it's going to hurt real bad.
This is why I suggested the plow. No going back and forth. Controlling the windrows to just one side of your desire and making long sweeping runs that take minutes. The plow will be the fastest snow weapon you have. With the quick attach, you can put back the bucket in minutes if you need it for clean up carrying snow away.
As far as getting stuck, it is far more conducive to get a set of chains for your tractor tires if you're worried about this.

Let me get to the point: in my experience from what I've confronted and listened to, I'd get the rear blower as back up and consider the front plow as my main snow removal tool.

The problem with a plow is the banks it puts up. My weather is similar to Western Minnesota and the wind can blow out of the north or out of the south or out of the west. No matter where I put a bank it would become a wind break to drift behind. When the wind blows at 40 miles an hour for hours on end those drifts get really hard. There is no way just a plow would handle deep Midwest drifted snow. I also worry about torrking the loader frame with a plow. Even though I have a very heavy loader, that’s still a risk

 

[Cahaba Valley Farm]

The problem with a plow is the banks it puts up. My weather is similar to Western Minnesota and the wind can blow out of the north or out of the south or out of the west. No matter where I put a bank it would become a wind break to drift behind. When the wind blows at 40 miles an hour for hours on end those drifts get really hard. There is no way just a plow would handle deep Midwest drifted snow. I also worry about torrking the loader frame with a plow. Even though I have a very heavy loader, that’s still a risk

Is there enough hydraulic flow on your tractor to operate a hydraulic driven blower instead of a PTO driven blower?

 

[arrow]

The problem with a plow is the banks it puts up. My weather is similar to Western Minnesota and the wind can blow out of the north or out of the south or out of the west. No matter where I put a bank it would become a wind break to drift behind. When the wind blows at 40 miles an hour for hours on end those drifts get really hard. There is no way just a plow would handle deep Midwest drifted snow. I also worry about torrking the loader frame with a plow. Even though I have a very heavy loader, that’s still a risk

This is a reasonable concern and is why I suggest the plow in unison with the rear blower.
I recall the year we had snow fall after snow fall w no weather to melt any away. 106" of the stuff that year.
My main weapon is a rear mounted scraper blade in unison with a snow pusher.
When the windrows closed up the lane, I would take bites out of the path w the snow pusher.
I would then push this pile to the side.
The op could simply use his plow to "center" a windrow and then blow it all away with the rear mount.
All in all, for up to the armageddon of wind and lake effects snow, the time one saves with the plow makes up for the eventual use of the blower.
Torquing the loader frame is also of a concern for some. Of course the wider the blade, the more of a chance. The alternative is to mount the plow on a specific frame or not allowing too much of a blade angle.
If the concern is so large, other alternatives are the snow pusher but that puts one in the same position as a bucket for long runs.

 

[MinnesotaMorg]

With 85 PTO horsepower I can usually blow the driveway in 540 E

I wonder if Ill be able to do this with the 4707. I would guess for small snowfalls but any big dumps or drifts ill for sure have to use regular 540. 4707 PTO HP is roughly 60.

Once or twice I haven’t even had to use creeper gear.

I've been wondering if I should get them to add this. I hear its not terribly expensive, and I saw another youtube video where a guy basically says creeper is good for snowblowing. Part of me wants to try it without it though...

hydraulic shoot deflection but after one season I added it on

I live in the middle of nowhere so I feel like shoot deflection isn't that important I just blow it basically as far as I can. But if I did want this, don't I need the 3rd remote? I only have 2 rears currently.

This is why I suggested the plow. No going back and forth. Controlling the windrows to just one side of your desire and making long sweeping runs that take minutes.

I do currently have a plow truck. I'm torn between trying to sell it for what I have into it, and just holding onto it. I only have $6k invested and its double duty as one of my 4WD vehicles. If I do decide to hold onto it, I'm sure ill use it to plow 2 inch snowfalls that we might get. Or do I just leave 2 inch snowfalls and let it pile up some and snowblow it once the drift has come? I suppose with a big blower I don't really need to stay on top of clearing my drive. I can let it drift all night if I want and then blow it the next day?

Is there enough hydraulic flow on your tractor to operate a hydraulic driven blower instead of a PTO driven blower?

This was a question I kind of had when I first started looking into snowblowers (as I was considering a skid steer as well). From my understanding most tractors won't be able to supply the gpm to really give the snowblower enough power.

Using the 4707 as an example, the PTO is 60HP. If we were to use the full power of the hydraulics you would get (17.7 * 2800) / 1714 = 28.9 HP from the hydraulics. Apparently there is some efficiency lost with pumps with those systems, but I don't really know much about that. Basically, the blower you would be able to operate would be much smaller but using the tractor hydraulics alone. Quick attach makes a power unit that converts PTO into hydraulic power, it then hoses that to your loader mounted blower. I believe Deere does the same thing for their 4 series tractors. These are pretty expensive on top of the cost of the blower. I would say if you're that dead set on using a front blower just get the one that routes the PTO power under the tractor to the front.

This is where things get a little strange, at least for me. While researching all of this I kept seeing pictures of a 4707 with a mid/front PTO. But searching for that feature specifically was kind of a dead end on Massey's website. Digging a bit I found that a few companies mostly in Europe make a modification (I guess?) that gives a front 3 pt and PTO on many different tractors. Front 3-point Hitch + Front PTO - Zuidberg North America

I asked them for a quote, I'm wondering if the 3 point arms are removable, or if they interfere with the loader when its attached. Either way I thought it was an interesting 3rd/4th/5th option that I should at least learn about. Does anyone know why this wouldn't be a more standard option on tractors on the US? It seems like its more common in Europe for whatever reason.

 

[Cahaba Valley Farm]

This was a question I kind of had when I first started looking into snowblowers (as I was considering a skid steer as well).

What caused you to decide to not go that route?

 

[goridedoo]

I live in the middle of nowhere so I feel like shoot deflection isn't that important I just blow it basically as far as I can. But if I did want this, don't I need the 3rd remote? I only have 2 rears currently.

One remote for rotation, and one for deflection... unless you are running something else with one of the remotes?

I asked them for a quote, I'm wondering if the 3 point arms are removable, or if they interfere with the loader when its attached. Either way I thought it was an interesting 3rd/4th/5th option that I should at least learn about. Does anyone know why this wouldn't be a more standard option on tractors on the US? It seems like its more common in Europe for whatever reason.

A kind of broad answer... but it seems to be a dairymen thing, and there seems to be one of those on every corner in Europe, not so much here.

 

[kenmbz]

My MF has a mid-mount PTO to drive the Mower and/or snowblower.
Seems like it would be a bit of work to mount that shaft and remove it from a front blower.

 

[metalbender]

You can have it both ways. Built a rear powered system for my 1742

 

[Boss 302]

Excellent choice, congratulations.

 

[MinnesotaMorg]

Does anyone know why this wouldn't be a more standard option on tractors on the US?

I just got off the phone with Zuidberg NA. They are going to be sending me a list of tractors that they sell this option for, along with installation instructions. I can post both for the boys if anyone else is interested in this stuff. Basically for the 3point and the front PTO its going to be about 9-10k for the 4707, I imagine more for larger less for smaller etc. I asked them why this wasn't a more popular option in the US he basically said its just market saturation. As it gets more popular, more people will start to include it as an advertised option. I guess it's not profitable to market options nobody uses? Seems like a catch 23 situation. Additionally he said he was not aware of warranty issues, but contact your manufacturer first (and probably get it in writing hah).

The other thing he told me was that for my particular model, they only sell the counter clockwise front PTO. I had no idea but I guess those crazy euros sell all implements in counter clock, vs our clockwise. He said other models do sell front PTO that go clockwise, else you can try and find a snowblower that works with counter clock PTO.

What caused you to decide to not go that route?

If I recall my thought process from a few months ago, basically it came down to value, maintenance, and options. My primary concern is snow removal sure, but the more I looked into what this all was going to cost me, the more I wanted to make sure I was making the best long term choice. Skid steers are damn expensive, and arguably can do less. They are better at some things, but I think tractors have a wider set of jobs they can accomplish vs a skid steer.

I think dollar for dollar you are getting a lot more when you buy a tractor vs a skid steer. I imagine a lot of the value or cost of a skid steer is making it small and very maneuverable, something I don't really need out here. Additionally, using my cocktail napkin math - it seems that skid steers have a higher maintenance cost vs a tractor. Also probably more expensive to work on if there is something you can't do yourself.

Looking back, I am glad I went the tractor route as it will open up many options for managing the pasture, where a skid steer would be limited in that capacity. Mainly I am looking for the biggest bush-hog to keep that pasture in check. Also, this might seem minor, but unless you got a JCB skid steer, you have to climb through the front into that tight cab. Tractor is 100% more comfy

One remote for rotation, and one for deflection... unless you are running something else with one of the remotes?

you're right, sorry I wasn't thinking correctly. Still a noob here

Built a rear powered system for my 1742

This looks pretty nice. Do you have a rough cost what it cost for materials and if you had any guide you followed? I am not really into fabricating my own stuff, but I think it's something I could slowly get into, start with much more simple stuff obviously.

 

[metalbender]

Got a smoking deal on the blower at our Kubota dealer. Some new material, some stuff salvaged from an old pull type combine, a lot of seat of the pants engineering "sittn n thinkin" and cruising the net. Erskine and Schulte make them, very costly. I'm into this for around 2 k CDN. Having a well equipped garage is a must. Lathe, mill, welders and plasma cutter, porta band etc. Being 71 yrs old slows the process down a mite.

 

[Indian Territory]

I’m pretty interested in an MF4707. About the same price as a Powerstar75, but a LOT more weight. (The weight is more important than the hp to me.) I like the tractor a lot based on the specs list, but I was recommended by more than one person to steer clear of MF because of parts availability (and TRACTOR availability, for that matter). Any truth in that warning?

 

[MinnesotaMorg]

During my shopping period, I had a hell of a time even finding tractors to sit in. I usually had to find a model that was already sold or "close enough" to get a feel for what I was buying. The only one that I actually sat in that would have been the actual unit I was buying was a powerstar 75.

I eventually had to call around and I ended up buying out of state, but the delivery was "free". I think all the 75hp tractors are in real short supply right now.

As far as the powerstar, I just couldn't get over that it didn't have the clutch button on the shifter. That might be petty but the way I see it the less I have to use the clutch pedal the better.

 

[Indian Territory]

During my shopping period, I had a hell of a time even finding tractors to sit in. I usually had to find a model that was already sold or "close enough" to get a feel for what I was buying. The only one that I actually sat in that would have been the actual unit I was buying was a powerstar 75.

I eventually had to call around and I ended up buying out of state, but the delivery was "free". I think all the 75hp tractors are in real short supply right now.

As far as the powerstar, I just couldn't get over that it didn't have the clutch button on the shifter. That might be petty but the way I see it the less I have to use the clutch pedal the better.

What dealer did you buy from?

 

[MinnesotaMorg]

What dealer did you buy from?

Bruno's Power sports out of Arkansas.

With interest rates going up I imagine if you're a cash buyer you may be able to get a better price than I did. One thing that I did was called more than once, and just say you don't remember what you were quoted, I for sure got quoted different numbers each time. On the call where I pulled the trigger the sales rep wasn't willing to budge on the price because I think we both knew if I didn't buy it for that price someone else probably would have. He was willing to throw in some add-ons though, I think that's a good way to get some extra value as they can technically say they sold the tractor for a certain margin.

 

[goridedoo]

I had mentioned tuning earlier… I know in another thread here there was talk about Ekotuning being able to tune 4700 series tractors. They don’t have any information about it on their website.

Larson Farms (youtube) had a guy out of Iowa come tune their 450 quadtrac. Peak 8 Solutions is this guy’s company, and he’s a partner/dealer for AgroEcoPower. I see they have a +20 hp 4707 tune listed on their site for $2500. I might look into this before next winter.

 

[MinnesotaMorg]

I had promised some of yall pictures when it came in. Well its here, and I got it stuck within 15 minutes. Might be a record. Anyone know why the 3rd remote on the back is so rusted? Did they try to give me some used remote or something? I have an outstanding balance of like 2k from the block heater and remote install, but I certainly don't want to pay full price for a used rusted remote.

 

[WM75Guy]

Nice tractor. Can't answer the rusted question, would be one for the dealer. As far as getting stuck you did a good job. Did you use the FEL and curl the bucket to push yourself out?