Hydraulics on a john Deere 5400

[valerie1961]

I've put on a hydraulic remote on my tractor. I took it off my old tractor same model but one year newer. The bucket will go up and down but will not curl. It worked fine on my old tractor but will not operate on my newer one. Any suggestions?

 

[Harry in Ky]

Sorry, but that's not much of an explanation of what took place. What "remote"? Is this a factory remote valve stacked onto the side of the lift housing or is it a dedicated loader valve? Does one valve work and the other not? We can't see what you have or what you've done so your details are all we have to go on.

 

[redman135]

Pictures please.

 

[Gregster613]

I've put on a hydraulic remote on my tractor. I took it off my old tractor same model but one year newer. The bucket will go up and down but will not curl. It worked fine on my old tractor but will not operate on my newer one. Any suggestions?

Uncouple and re-couple your connections to the bucket, often they may just not be fully connected and will give this result. I know the remote has no direct connection to the bucket, but it's worth a try at least.

 

[valerie1961]

I tried that. Same thing

 

[valerie1961]

Sorry, but that's not much of an explanation of what took place. What "remote"? Is this a factory remote valve stacked onto the side of the lift housing or is it a dedicated loader valve? Does one valve work and the other not? We can't see what you have or what you've done so your details are all we have to go on.

My new to me tractor did not have the remote for the bucket or loader. I removed all the needed bits from my old tractor and put them on my newer tractor. Added the by remote beside the back tire, added the rear couplings, joystick and everything for the loader remotes. It will only raise the bucket up and down but not curl it. What did I neglect to do

 

[oldnslo]

Try swapping the lines from raise - lower to curl dump to see if either function will now operate.

 

[BackRoad]

The good news is you have a working circuit, so logically, one may deduce much of your core hydraulic system IS working!

Double check you installed the plumbing correctly (in the right port sequence and maintained the original flows, everything is connected), then troubleshoot by using the working components to find the bad component.

As mentioned by Mr. OldnSlo, you can prove your valves by swapping the circuits to the alternate valves. Determine what the results tell you based on the new symptoms. Return them back to normal, then you're down to component swapping.

You should identify which circuit and components are working normal and mark as "known good" connectors, lines and valves, then similarly identify each of the potentially bad connectors and lines.

Draw out a diagram on paper if needed...

Once tagged, evaluate how you might use individual good components to step-by-step, one at a time - swap and test individual fittings for the function which is not working.

First place I would personally start is swapping individual Quick Connect fittings, one at a time from the good circuit to the bad and test, then go to the next, etc,. They are high probability.

The objective is to use good lines and good connectors one by one to methodically isolate down and find the bad component.