How to tell which model hydrant?

[Schneeky]

Hey guys. I've got a leaking hydrant. Just barely dripping. Gonna try to adjust it but wanna get a rebuild/repair kit to have on hand for this and a few others on the property. Seems there's a lotta different model #'s for these and the difference is not always obvious to me. Don't see anything but the brand name on the hydrant itself.
So how do ya tell one from another? Thanks.. d:^)

 

[Xfaxman]

Call and ask: Campbell Heavy Duty Yard Hydrant Replacement Parts

 

[Schneeky]

Worked like a charm..
CS sez HPK-1 for all Campbell hydrants.
Thankyasir!!

Call and ask: Campbell Heavy Duty Yard Hydrant Replacement Parts
View attachment 725731

 

[Xfaxman]

 

[CobyRupert]

I assume you mean it’s dripping when handle is off? How can you tell it’s dripping?
That is, does it drip out the faucet? Wouldn’t a dripping/leaking hydrant just leak out the drain hole at the bottom of the hydrant underground undetected?
To me, a visible dripping hydrant means hydrant is leaking AND ground is so saturated (or some other problem) that the standpipe does not drain when you close the handle.
And if the standpipe doesn’t drain, it can freeze. (So maybe moving leaking water is helpful in this case)

Perhaps freezing is not an issue where you live?

I see you have a shut off valve and hose connected to hydrant. The standpipe can only drain itself of water after you close the handle if air can flow back through the hydrant’s nozzle back into the standpipe. A long hose or closed shut-off valve at the nozzle will prevent this. If no air can enter standpipe, water will be siphoned locked (is that a phrase?) and water will remain in standpipe to freeze.

 

[Schneeky]

When I put the handle in the closed position it still very slowly drips water from the end of the hydrant. We put the additional cutoff on it during non-freezing weather to keep it from muddying up that general area and it does get pressurized when closed. So the hydrant is not fully closing.
..When it's gonna be below freezing the cutoff is opened up so it can drip which may or may not help. We'll end up with about an 8" stalagmite in the morning. But there's generally not a lotta hard freeze in this part of NC. Middish 20's and such overnight. That particular hydrant is close to the horse's water trough and the short washing machine hose is how we get the water in the trough.

 

[grsthegreat]

i have NEVER been able to repair a yard hydrant. i have tried everythinjg to unscrew one and replace parts....never had any luck. i usually end up digging it up and replacing entire thing.

 

[CADplans]

Our hydrant was on a "TEE", and one of the fittings rusted in half,,

I wanted the new hydrant to be more stable, so, I made a "collar" out of 8" plastic pipe.

I split the pipe, heated it with a propane torch, and bent it as necessary,,

Some of that "forming" was left over from a previous use of the pipe,

When I put gravel in the 8" pipe, the hydrant became almost as rigid as concrete.

My 2' bury hydrant cost $80 delivered in 2019.

 

[jwstewar]

Just had a learning experience with one of the Simmons hydrants. Couldn't get it to shut off. Did like the original poster and left a host attached to "shut it off" well, the cold snuck up on me and it froze the hydrant and put a hairline crack in the top - fortunately. So I rebuilt it. After rebuilding, I figured out, had I just adjusted the pressure on the plunger the whole thing could have been avoided. At least I got it to shut off. Then two days later, that hair line crack enlarged and was spraying water everywhere. So I had to order the new top and take the hydrant apart again. The good news, I now know how yard hydrants work. I know how to adjust and rebuilt them now, LOL.

 

[sdquick]

Some advice I got from the supply house where I purchased my hydrants was to use a 5 gallon bucket when putting it in the ground. I cut or drill a hole in the lid and slide it up on the hydrant. Then I cut the bottom of the bucket out and the slit the side up about 1/3 to 1/2 way and cut a hole for the pipe (or one on each side if on a tee). Then I fill the bucket with bottom the hydrant (and drain) inside the bucket with gravel. Slide the lid down onto the bucket that is full of gravel and cover any big gaps with duck tape and then burry. That leaves the bottom of the hydrant (and drain) in gravel to drain and keeps it out of what would otherwise be wet dirt. Makes everything operate better and last longer by preventing the corrosion of being in wet dirt... Seems like it is worth it to give up an old bucket (everyone has some around) and some gravel....

 

[4570Man]

With the top of the hydrant being that crusty I’m sure the bottom side is worse. I’d throw it out and replace it.

 

[Xfaxman]

This style is the best frost proof hydrant that I have ever had: Baker Water Systems - Monitor® Magnum Yard Hydrant

The water valve works just like a hydraulic spool valve. And after the hydrant is installed the handle can be rotated to any position desired then held there with the set screw.

 

[CobyRupert]

I’ve worked on my Campbell hydrant way too much and have replaced just about every part on it.
First thing I’d try is to adjust the handle position on the rod that goes into the standpipe to push rod farther down when handle closes.
This probably won’t work if the plunger at the bottom of the standpipe needs replacement.
So.. 2nd thing is to disconnect the push rod from the handle and unscrew the hydrant head from the standpipe. This might be difficult for you because the wood post is the way. Then pull up the pushrod that’s internal to the standpipe and replace the plunger attached to the bottom of it.

If the plunger doesn’t shut the water off completely, as is happening now, you can still be leaking water and never know if the water drains out the port at the bottom underground instead of making its way up and out the standpipe/hydrant.

The only way I can tell mine is leaking is I installed a pressure gauge in the house downstream of the valve in the house that supplies the hydrant. Only by turning off the supply valve and watching the trapped water in the line to the hydrant lose pressure do I know the hydrant is leaking.

 

[MDawson]

I'm having a very hard time identifying my hydrant to repair it. I'm pretty sure it's the plunger at the bottom of the shaft and want to get the correct one without having to replace the whole hydrant. Cannot really get to the backside of handle and spigot but was able to get a pic of the only identifying mark on the handle. No marks what so ever on right side of spigot.

 

[CADplans]

I'm having a very hard time identifying my hydrant to repair it. I'm pretty sure it's the plunger at the bottom of the shaft and want to get the correct one without having to replace the whole hydrant. Cannot really get to the backside of handle and spigot but was able to get a pic of the only identifying mark on the handle. No marks what so ever on right side of spigot.

Why not simply order a complete new one,, ??
If you rebuild the old one, assuming you can find the parts, you might save $6,,

AND, if you rebuild, you are risking that something else might be wrong with your old hydrant.
TOSS it, and get a completely new unit.

 

[LouNY]

It's a royal pain to replace mine, something about that 5 foot bury depth.

 

[MDawson]

If $ wasn't so tight no problem replacing whole pipe, but also don't know depth. New ones are $130+, where as rebuild kits are $25+.

 

[CobyRupert]

I'm having a very hard time identifying my hydrant to repair it. I'm pretty sure it's the plunger at the bottom of the shaft and want to get the correct one without having to replace the whole hydrant. Cannot really get to the backside of handle and spigot but was able to get a pic of the only identifying mark on the handle. No marks what so ever on right side of spigot.

It looks like there’s hardly room to raise the handle. Is there room for it to unscrew from the pipe? If it’s the plunger on the bottom, you might get lucky and be able to replace it with a “generic” plunger, or one from another model.

 

[LD1]

Never taken a hydrant apart. Always just replace the whole thing. Cause usually by the time they start leaking, the bottom of the pipe is so corroded anyway they aint long for this world.

But can the plunger actually be pulled up the pipe and replaced without digging it up? Or is the packing/nut the only thing serviceable?

 

[CobyRupert]

……can the plunger actually be pulled up the pipe and replaced without digging it up? Or is the packing/nut the only thing serviceable?

Yes, typically.
Lift the handle up so that plunger isn’t seated and will pull out more easily.
Disconnect the handle mechanism from the rod that extend down hydrant’s stand pipe to plunger. (Note: You don’t the rod in the standpipe to be turning as you turn the handle as it may be unscrewing it’s connection at the bottom.)
Remove handle.
Pull the rod out of the stand pipe.
Unscrew plunger at bottom of the rod and replace.

For me the hard part is adjusting the handle after reassembly so that it opens the plunger enough for good flow, yet closes tight enough for no leaks…or imagined leaks as you can’t really tell because it would just leak out the weep/drain hole at the bottom of the hydrant. It’s a Goldilocks feel.