Household Septic System

Billrog · Mar 24, 2015

jlgurr reason suggests the tank should be close to the surface. I have found tough the location of some tanks seems to make no rime nor reason so check a large area. Have you checked under the deck? I hope your able to find it without making a mess of your yd.

Billrog · Mar 24, 2015

ddbackhoe this is a workshop I put the system in for. As far as the size of the hole and what comes out of it is up to the building inspector I just hook to the pipe coming out. Sticking the clean out away from the building just makes 1 more thing to avoid breaking or mowing around. I can't see why pee gravel is more except able than bedding sand under with a ft. of cover as well. Pee gravel is an alternative here but $10 a yd. more to pass on to the home owner is hard to justify.

jlgurr · Mar 24, 2015

Third 45" hole = strike three.

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dave1949 · Mar 24, 2015

jlgurr said:
Third 45" hole = strike three.

View attachment 418032

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Well, somebody is happy at least. :laughing:

jlgurr · Mar 24, 2015

dave1949 said:
Well, somebody is happy at least. :laughing:

For sure the twins are enjoying the dirt and dad home on vacation from work. The weather has been great but freeze coming this weekend.

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PILOON · Mar 24, 2015

Someone suggested 'under the deck', I'd check there.
Regulations call for a distance from the dwelling (foundation) and not from a deck etc.
Decks often get added later.

I know of 2 that are under (or partially under) decks around here.

jlgurr · Mar 24, 2015

What the heck, can't hurt to try under the deck. It was definitely added later, but don't ask how I know...

. Anyone able to guesstimate the dimensions of a 1500 gallon septic tank?

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MossRoad · Mar 24, 2015

jlgurr said:
Found the sketch from the health department...

View attachment 418019

Unfortunately, that sketch says its 15' from the house (or more) but it doesn't say how far in either direction. It could be under or behind you from where you took the pictures. Or to you left. Or.... grrrrr..... hope you get a freak 1-2" late season snow storm so it melts over the tanks!

MossRoad · Mar 24, 2015

You sure you're on the right side of the house?

Eldubya · Mar 24, 2015

Say what you will about `witching`for metal or water. If you throw a quarter onto a sandy beach, I can find it. Have found the re-bar in septic tanks many times, as long as they're no deeper than about 3 feet. Don`t know how or why it works. It just does.

vtsnowedin · Mar 24, 2015

jlgurr said:
What the heck, can't hurt to try under the deck. It was definitely added later, but don't ask how I know... . Anyone able to guesstimate the dimensions of a 1500 gallon septic tank?

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5'hx 4'w'10'L plus eight inches each for 4"thick walls and floors.

dave1949 · Mar 24, 2015

I know how to find that thing!

Flush a goldfish down the toilet and use a fish finder.

MossRoad · Mar 24, 2015

dave1949 said:
I know how to find that thing!

Flush a goldfish down the toilet and use a fish finder.

Amateurs! :scubadiver:

ddbackhoe · Mar 25, 2015

Billrog said:
ddbackhoe this is a workshop I put the system in for. As far as the size of the hole and what comes out of it is up to the building inspector I just hook to the pipe coming out. Sticking the clean out away from the building just makes 1 more thing to avoid breaking or mowing around. I can't see why pee gravel is more except able than bedding sand under with a ft. of cover as well. Pee gravel is an alternative here but $10 a yd. more to pass on to the home owner is hard to justify.

I don't get a choice, these are all mandated by the building/health inspector. I was just looking at the differences in what we are allowed to do. Wasn't all that long ago, as long as we kept a 100 foot from the well, the inspection was often done on the fly.

ddbackhoe · Mar 25, 2015

dave1949 said:
I know how to find that thing!

Flush a goldfish down the toilet and use a fish finder.

:laughing:

jlgurr · Mar 25, 2015

MossRoad said:
You sure you're on the right side of the house?

Yes, based on the location of the water well and driveway noted in the sketch.

PILOON · Mar 25, 2015

Generally the tank inlet will only be slightly lower than the outlet from the house (unless a solids pump is installed).
If there is any basement plumbing then you would be looking at a tank level that is slightly lower than basement floor.
Next regulations specify the minimum distance from a house and generally you know where the drain outlet exists. If up to code there would be a clean out in the basement just at the exit point.
Logic says that the excavator will have dug for the tank at the same time as the foundations were done and that the drain run would be kept as short as practical in compliance with regulations.

Armed with the above info any tank should be relatively easy to locate.

Same logic applies to locating a drain field. Downhill generally, clear area.

LOL, then comes exceptions.
Like mine. I am lakeside and terrain is steep with lots of granite formations.
Back of my house is 'walk in' level with parking area and my tank is 8' down followed by a pumping station.
In my 'walk out' basement level I have gravity plumbing to that deep tank installation.
I have 2 concrete lids flush with parking area surface.
I pump the effluent uphill about 18 ft to my drainage field.
(I can attest that changing my pump in January at minus 25 deg is no fun.)
My house is about 40 ft from the lake shore making those inconveniences worth it.
We are in 'paradise'.

jlgurr · Mar 25, 2015

Time allowing, I may dig down to the drain line and follow it to the tank wall. Then based on the tank dimensions I'll measure in to locate the lid.

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GPintheMitten · Mar 25, 2015

jlgurr said:
Time allowing, I may dig down to the drain line and follow it to the tank wall. Then based on the tank dimensions I'll measure in to locate the lid.

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If you do not know where the drain line exits the house, dig perpendicular along the basement wall until you find it. Dig about 12" or so below the basement floor level.

When you find it, expose enough to get the direction in case it is at an angle other than 90, then move out about 15'. In other words, I would not expose the drain line the whole length because it is more digging and the possibility of breaking the pipe while digging.

jlgurr · Mar 25, 2015

GPintheMitten said:
If you do not know where the drain line exits the house, dig perpendicular along the basement wall until you find it. Dig about 12" or so below the basement floor level. When you find it, expose enough to get the direction in case it is at an angle other than 90, then move out about 15'. In other words, I would not expose the drain line the whole length because it is more digging and the possibility of breaking the pipe while digging.

Good point, I'll do that. Thx.

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