I can't remember what size the slow jet was but I did go up one and then readjusted
the mixture screw. I didn't have to change the clip as mid revs the engine seamed to be fine. I had to reduce
the main jet from a 130 down to a 120, it's easy to identify using the plug if it's rich or lean. There's an order to
what to adjust first. Without a kit with lots of jets it's a slow process.
You are right, it is a lot of work. BTDT. Most folks don't have the patience, even if they know how. There
is also the "redneck repair" where you carefully increase the aperture of the jet using the tiny round files
normally used for torch nozzle cleaning. You can only make them bigger, however. My 96 TRX300 starts
and runs great, 4y after the big rebuild.
RE Honda brakes, when all else fails, replacement wheel and master cyls are quite reasonably priced. I have
also successfully sustituted new Chinese hand brake/master cyls, as well as Chinese rear m/cs.
One bleeding problem I have found on older neglected quads is that crystallized or dirty old fluid can cause
restrictions in the brake lines. Fluid may pass thru them, but air bubbles hang up. Sometimes you need
to clean out or replace the hoses.
I have successfully "gravity-bled" some brakes, where you do not even open the bleeder at the
wheel cyl at all. You let the air bubbles naturally rise to the m/c. This does not always work, AND
there can not be any restrictions. I do not use any special tools or pumps.