Homemade loader for Branson tractor

[ptsg]

Hi there

So after owing a Kubota B7000 with a loader I've built, I know how versatile a tractor with a loader is and the amount of things that it allows for us to do.

Since this new tractor didn't come with a loader, mostly due to the price that would add. This lead me to search for an used one which, I've found out that they are either too old and sloppy or just too expensive.

Therefore I started looking on what materials I had laying around to build a loader and playing with CAD drawings to get all the movements and pivot point right.

This is more or less the loader I will built. It will have quick attach feature both at the bucket (not modeled) and at the loader it self. I will add supports to the loader mount from the rear axle and also from the front of the tractor to help spreading the loader and stresses between the whole tractor.



After checking everything I had to work with, I started building the loader. Obviously I will need to buy some stuff like more steel, all the hydraulic stuff and maybe an used bucket if I can find one. I will build the cylinders myself.

Let's go for the pictures:

The loader towers and quick attach supports:










More to follow

 

[ptsg]

So this tractor comes with a mid mounted ROPS, and seems like Branson though on the possibility of adding a loader, so they built the ROPS mount really sturdy and strong. My plan is to weld a piece of rectangular tubing, the same I will use on the loader arms to give the loader mount a place to weld.

I've also started on the loader arms.

Pictures to follow:








Some random machining pictures, I thought you might enjoy:






This will be a slow build, so might be while till the next update.

 

[TractorGuy]

Nice looking work so far.

Wish I had a lathe and mill at home. I miss having access to a machine shop. That is what I did for the last 15 years before retiring.

 

[ptsg]

Thank you sir!

Having a lathe and a mill definitely makes things a lot easier! I'm just 24 so I'm still kinda starting in this machining deal although I run the milling machine since I could barely see over the vice.

 

[Thomas]

Interesting :thumbsup: keep the updates coming.

 

[LouNY]

You do good work, it's always interesting to see.

 

[52wej]

Very impressive work. Not knowing exactly how your mid mount ROPS is attached, I am wondering what sort of support you will need to add, if any, under the tractor to provide extra support for the stresses of the loader? Most strong loaders I have seen have a solid front to back support frame that is bolted to the tractor. I am looking forward to seeing your progress. W. Jones

 

[ptsg]

Thank you.

My plan is to add a piece of flat bar on each side, going from the loader brackets to the front of the tractor. Then I will add a sub-frame going from the bottom of the brackets to the rear axle and I will also add a cross member connecting the two brackets.

Hopefully this will spread and even the stress between the whole tractor.

This is a picture of the ROPS are mounted. Hard to see but they build it pretty much like a regular loader bracket on a rear mounted ROPS tractor.



This is the front supports I have in mind. You can see the flat bar going to the front.

 

[52wej]

That should work. That is a solid ROPS system! The Humpolec made loader that came on my 2004 Century 2535 has 1" (approximately) thick steel front to back of varying widths and cross members under the tractor. There is no give to it. With the loader frame on it makes the tractor feel very solid. Good Luck. W. Jones

 

[farm boy00]

Thank you.

My plan is to add a piece of flat bar on each side, going from the loader brackets to the front of the tractor. Then I will add a sub-frame going from the bottom of the brackets to the rear axle and I will also add a cross member connecting the two brackets.

Hopefully this will spread and even the stress between the whole tractor.

This is a picture of the ROPS are mounted. Hard to see but they build it pretty much like a regular loader bracket on a rear mounted ROPS tractor.



This is the front supports I have in mind. You can see the flat bar going to the front.

It looks like even the factory loader is mounted to the ROPS so I dont see why it wouldn't work.

 

[ptsg]

Yeah, I agree with both of you. It should hold just fine.

That's is not the factory loader on those pictures. It's an aftermarket one. I don't think Branson offers a loader option for tractors with mid mounted ROPS. Only on tractors with rear ROPS.

That loader in the picture, in my opinion, has a somewhat major flaw, which is the need to remove the loader so you can remove the ROPS pins if you want to fold it. They didn't leave much space between the loader brackets and the ROPS. I've spaced the loader I'm building so I don't have to remove it whenever I need to fold the ROPS.

 

[ptsg]

It's been over a year already? Wow!

About time I finally update this thread.

So, last week I went and go the honed tube and chrome rod to make the cylinders. The tube is 60 mm (2" 23/64) inside diameter and the rod is 30 mm (1" 3/16").

I still need to get the seal kits, the fine thread lock nut and the gland. I will be making the pistons myself. I can't make the gland also because I don't have the tooling or measuring equipment to deal with grooves for the seals.

Here is the material all cut to length. The ports and eng plugs that I had already machined.



The hydraulic top link on my tractor uses the same bore and rod diameter as I'll be using. I made the top link out of an old cylinder I got from the junkyard. It's live an hard life on the previous aplication as you'll see in the gland. Since it's all standard parts, I can use the gland of that cylinder to check the thread fitment on the new tubes. That being said, I started machining the tubes.



After the machining, I could start welding the end plugs and the work ports. First pass with a 3/32" rod and the last pass with 1/8" rod.



That's everything so far. I'll be machining the rods next and maybe the pistons.

Here is a time-lapse on the machining of one of the tubes: Cylinder machining - YouTube

 

[GeneD14]

PTSG,

You do some impressive work! Your machining and welding looks top notch.

Keep the updates coming.

 

[ptsg]

Thanks GeneD14.

Yesterday I machined one of the rods so I could at least test one cylinder. Here are a couple of pictures:



I tested on my backhoe and everything worked perfectly with absolutely no leaks at all. I was very happy with it.

After all, I'll be machining the glands my self. I just got about a foot of ductile cast iron round stock today.

Here is a video of the test: Cylinder testing - YouTube

More to come.

 

[BFreaky]

Looks great. Can't wait to see how it will look when it's done. Keep up the good work

 

[ptsg]

Thanks BFreaky!

I machined the rest of the rods today and got one piston made. Came out really nice and hit every dimension it needed.

 

[BFreaky]

When making cylinders it's very important to make it precise. Then you can reach factory quality

 

[ptsg]

Yes indeed. However, I took some factory made cylinders apart to get an idea on various methods of doing it and some of them, were not that precise.

So far, I'm hitting every dimension just spot on, which is nice, since my lathe is not new and has quite a bit of wear. Although most of the parts have quite a bit of tolerance, specially when it comes to groove dimensions for the seals.

I've repaired a couple of cylinders before, but this being my first cylinders made by me from scratch is a pleasant experience. It's something I've always wanted to do, was to make hydraulic cylinders myself.

 

[ptsg]

Let's update this thread again.

Finally got around to finish all the cylinders. The only thing missing is the threaded holes for the grease fittings but I'll do that later on after I figure out the best place for it.

I've now started on the second arm and I'm also modeling the quick hitch for the bucket on the CAD program. I'll be using the Euro 8 style, instead of the SSQA since it's more common over here.

Here are the pictures of the glands being machines, then finish with all the seals in. Also the finished cylinders. If you look closely, on the shorter (curl) cylinders, I've put two pins in so show that the cylinders matched perfectly in length with each other. Both on the retracted and extended positions.

Those cylinders are marked because the ports are rotated 45ｺ in relation to the pins. To make sure I have clearance for the hoses between the loader arms and the ROPS when folded. And if I swap them around, the fittings would be facing towards the outside of the tractor which would make it really exposed.

Glands and pistons:



Cylinders finished:

 

[LouNY]

Looks good, waiting for the completion pictures. :thumbsup: