Hauling Tractor Safely?

[Steelfan]

I'm quite new to being a Compact Tractor Owner, so please excuse my questions. I recently bought a TC21D with Fel, and MMM. The dealer told me the Tractor with all attachments on it will be around 2800 LBs. First does anyone know if this is close? I did some math, but wanted to know if I left anything out. I come up with 2765 which is very close to what the dealer said. I've got a 6'X12' Loadrite Trailer with single axle on it. On the paper work it says its good for 3000LBs. The trailer is rated by the state at 2000LBs. Being a Truckdriver I know that I'm overweight if I were pulled over for weighting purposes. I've hauled 3000 lbs of coal with no problem. Now the real concern I have is Securing the Tractor on the trailer. I have one big military tiedown, similar to those used on Flatbeds. I'm buying 2 more tiedowns to help, but I'm not sure how heavy to go. I'd like to make sure that I'm not bothered by the police for not securing the tractor properly. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks Kent

 

[skent]

If it were my TC21, I would opt to trade or buy up to a two axle trailer with brakes on at least one axle.

Hauling 3000 pounds of coal has a low center of gravity.

If u blow a tire, all you end up with is coal in the road and u fix the tire and pick up the coal.

Hauling a 2700 pound tractor and u blow a tire, u don't just pick up the tractor. (and i'm guessing the tractor costs more!)

 

[Steelfan]

You've got a great point there. I paid $1300 for this trailer. I could probably have done better for my money with a two axle. Although at the time I had no idea, that I'd be hauling a Tractor with it. I had 2 garden tractor fit fine on it. Thanks for your honesty Steve..... Kent

 

[Von]

Kent, I think stepping up to a bigger trailer is the smart thing to do. I use two grade 70 5/16" chains with load binders to secure the tractor to trailer. (see photo) I think chain is better than straps, as it won't cut like a strap can. I use a 16' trailer and have no problems with the tractor with FEL and rotory cutter on.

 

[Von]

Sorry, wrong name on photo and it didn't work. Will try again.

 

[Steelfan]

Thanks Von. That's a great setup. I'm going to check into a two axle trailer. I never thought of the cutting thing with the straps. Do you use 2 chains or am I missing some?? Thanks Kent

 

[Von]

Kent, Yes, two chains. One in front and one on the rear. I now have two ratchet binders instead of the lever type. They do a much better job. I was using these old binders and chain that my grandfather gave me years ago. Age and grade was unknown, broke a binder one day when loading it up. Thought this is nuts, have $18K invested in tractor and am too cheap to spend $100.00 to secure it right. So got what I needed and now I don't have to worry when I trailer the tractor anywhere.

 

[RobS]

You're getting some good advice here. Regarding the nylon straps, I have two and prefer them at the front as there is less chance of scratching my tractor. I use chain at the rear. I also carry a couple of carpet scraps to pad the strap anywhere it is likely to be cut. Congratulations on your new tractor /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[PaulinSD]

I bought a 16' t/a axle trailer for my tractors. It's rated at 7000# GVW, and I haul about 3600# max weight. It has brakes on both axles, bought it new for $1800. I chain the 955 on each side, the 1050 is chained front and rear. I'd rather use the ratchet binders than the current lever binders.

Paul

 

[PaulinSD]

Here's one with the 955 on the trailer.

Paul

 

[Steelfan]

Thanks guys!!! Paul that looks like a nice setup. I'm not sure about the strap thing yet. Rob thanks for the advise, and your expertise. The tractor is worth more than a couple of chains, and even the trailer. And the worst possible thing happening is someone getting hurt. I'm on the highway everyday, and have seen a lot of unnecessary accidents. Thanks again. Kent

 

[ddl]

Don't foget to add the weight of the trailer bed and axle to the load you are hauling for total weight. If your trailer is rated at 7500 lbs and the axle and bed weight 2000 lbs, you have 5500 lbs of weight and not over loaded the trailer. One other thing, if you use hooks or eyebolts that attach to the trailer, make sure you drill through the frame and insert the eyenolts through the frame. Do not just drill a hole in the flooring and think that it is safe.

Dan L

 

[Steelfan]

I assume you are talking abou gross weight. My trailer weights 900lbs. So you add the weight of the the tractor, I'm coming up with 3700lbs. Is it fesible that a single axle trailer can safely carry that weight? I do not have brakes on the trailer. Also a dumb but relative question, can I add brakes to my trailer? I being new to this stuff, don't understand small hauling capacities. I'm used to the 80,000lbs range. That I know something about. Thanks again. Kent

 

[HalseyGreen]

Your carry capacity is determined by the rating of the axles or rims or tires or strength of the frame of trailer, with your capacity being what ever adds up to the lowest amount. I know in Northern Tool's catalogue, they have axles with ratings up to 6000 pounds along with electric and hydrualic brake parts for axles. To add brakes your axle needs to have a flange to bolt the backing plate to. Most likely, your axle is not rated greater than 3500 pounds. Depending on your trailer design, if the lenght is appropriate, maybe you could replace the single axle with two axles?

 

[Steelfan]

Trailer is 6ft X 12ft. Its got one of those axle similar to something you would haul a car on. I've got 14 inch tires, and a pressure treated deck on it. Very well built trailer. I'll check about adding an axle before I do anything. Thanks a bunch Kent.

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

Steelfan:
Over the years, I have built and modified trailers using parts from
http://www.franklintrailers.com/
I have found them great to deal with and extremely fast delivering.
Where I am, Maryland, I understand that any trailer over 3000gvw rating has to have brakes. Whether you convert to two axles, add brakes to your present axle or replace your present axle with an axle/brake assembly, Franklin has all the parts needed. I don't have a new catalog, but up to a couple of years ago, at least, they had an extensive catalog that is worth asking for.
On another note, a PhD engineer of my acquaintance convinced me that hydraulic surge brakes are safer than electric, because of reduced jacknife risk. Electric brakes, if not well adjusted, can push the tow vehicle sideways. This isn't a high-risk problem, because most of us adjust the trailer brakes to be pretty aggressive. I built a 2 wheel multiple boat trailer, however, with the hydraulic surge system. It works beautifully and avoids the need for a brake controller. Only slightly harder to install, with brake lines instead of wires.
Good luck.

 

[Steelfan]

Thanks for the site. I'll check it out right away. I'm hoping to add to my trailer if I can. Kent

 

[ddl]

if your trailer is rated at 2000 lbs, you are 1750 lbs over the rated value. More than 150 % over weight. Don't hit any potholes in the road or even a dead aminal on the road for that manner. Why not buy a trailer made for hauling your load. As a truckdriver you should know the importance of safety.

Dan L

 

[Steelfan]

You're Right, DDL. I want to be safe hauling my tractor. I'm asking questions to find out which is the best way for me to go. I've seen to many people do stupid things, that cause injury or death. One thing I can tell you, is that when I haul my tractor, it will be safely. I'm just not sure of how the weight issue works with small trailers. If I need a new trailer, I'll get one. I'm currently trying to find out if I can add a second axle to my trailer, and brakes. I hate to sell my current trailer if I don't have to. Thanks for the reply. I'm grateful for the input. Kent

 

[Phred]

<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

Your carry capacity is determined by the rating of the axles or rims or tires or strength of the frame of trailer, with your capacity being what ever adds up to the lowest amount.

<hr></blockquote>



This is a key point. I looked at a 16' goosneck trailer that was for sale and "rated" at 12000 GVW.
However, the tires were clearly marked not to exheed 2000 lbs. So four tires at 2000 lbs only adds up to 8000 lbs via my math. So if you assume that the trailer is around 2000 lbs, this would only give you a total load capcity of 6000 lbs! Half of the "rating"!


I also think that the chains are far better. The ratchet load binders are also superior since the other kind can flip open if you don't wrap enough chain around them.

Fred