Grapple --- 1 Lid or 2

Scott65 · Mar 3, 2015

IslandTractor said:
You are not going to break your bottom tines believe me. The only way to break or damage a grapple with a CUT is to twist it. If you center loads before you lift then you cannot twist or hurt the grapple. Your FEL simply isn't strong enough even if you can lift both rear wheels off the ground. If you don't ram into things off center you won't damage either the grapple or the FEL either.

This sounds like a challenge... I think I'm gonna go run the tractor around for a bit.

I agree though. I'm no engineer so I can't vouch for every design or thickness/type of metal used. I didn't use anything special on mine. And no mathematical calculations, cad drawings, etc. I used my favorite method, eyeballin' it. I made a straight edge across the bottom to pinch stuff against the bucket, to pull branches out of trees and whatnot. After being very rough with it, abusive really, I bet that edge would nearly hold water still. As stated, the tractors lack of power and weight to gain traction probably keep it from exerting enough force to cause any real problems. And the hydraulic system is weak enough to keep you out of too much trouble as well. I've clamped on things with just the corner tine, full pressure, and still closes tight.

The weight savings is an interesting idea though. I had never thought about it but that is quite a limiting factor with a cud. I wonder how well something like this would hold up made of, let's say, aluminum? That would be pretty sweet.

Edit: Those references to metal types are Greek to me too. Somebody point out if that is a type of aluminum...

Hilbilly · Mar 3, 2015

Got it painted and another coat of spar urethane on the FEL knob. Now I just have to wait for it to dry, add another coat to the FEL knob, then wire the new knob to the diverter and I will be done. I don't think I will bother with more coats of paint, since I think it won't last long anyways.

TomSeller · Mar 3, 2015

Agree that lifting loads that twist the grapple is where you will do damage. The tines are configured vertically for a reason, that is their strongest dimension. Use a grapple properly and mild steel will do fine. Put it on a big loader and slam it around moving concrete blocks or whatever, you will bend it up. Many people don't understand that a CUT is in the 1500lb to 3000lb lift range. A big loader can be 10 x that. Easily.

IslandTractor · Mar 3, 2015

Hilbilly said:
Got it painted and another coat of spar urethane on the FEL knob. Now I just have to wait for it to dry, add another coat to the FEL knob, then wire the new knob to the diverter and I will be done. I don't think I will bother with more coats of paint, since I think it won't last long anyways.
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One comment based on your photo. I understand the desire to use a screen to protect the hydraulic cylinder. However, a screen like you have attached is going to snag brush and then fail to empty it so you will be (this is my prediction) frequently hopping off the tractor to pull little bits of brush out of the grapple screen. Easy to fix if you do find it a problem though. Just remove the screen and replace it with a single three inch strip of 1/4" steel directly below the cylinder.

If it helps at all, mine never has had any protection at all and the only damage I ever had was one time snagging the hydraulic line after I dumped a load. Never damaged the actual cylinder despite almost ten years of very active use. Photo of mine below. If I was building one today I would just use that 3" strip directly under the cylinder and they make sure the hydraulic lines were routed in such a way that they couldn't snag debris.

Hilbilly · Mar 3, 2015

I sure hope you're wrong about branches getting stuck in the screen. I really don't want to remove it after having to make a special trip to the city just to get the material. I guess time will tell. But not for a few days. I have to go into the City tomorrow so nothing will get done until Thursday.

IslandTractor · Mar 3, 2015

Hilbilly said:
I sure hope you're wrong about branches getting stuck in the screen. I really don't want to remove it after having to make a special trip to the city just to get the material. I guess time will tell. But not for a few days. I have to go into the City tomorrow so nothing will get done until Thursday.

Here's an idea. If branches do get stuck, leave the screen and bolt on a thin sheet of pexiglass underneath it so the branches are deflected away. The screen will then allow you decent visibility, protection and prevent food between the teeth syndrome).

k0ua · Mar 3, 2015

Boy that home made wooden know sure turned out pretty. It should last pretty well too. Of course you can always hit it again sometime before you put the tractor away when it starts to wear away.

Hilbilly · Mar 3, 2015

k0ua said:
Boy that home made wooden know sure turned out pretty. It should last pretty well too. Of course you can always hit it again sometime before you put the tractor away when it starts to wear away.

I'm really liking the way it turned out and thanks for the tip on the Spar Urethane. That is what I used and I think it will be very durable and looks cool too. I can't wait to try it out instead of using my temporary toggle switch. This should be way more convenient. I've got 4 coats on it now and will likely add another one before I go to town in the morning.

k0ua · Mar 3, 2015

Hilbilly said:
I'm really liking the way it turned out and thanks for the tip on the Spar Urethane. That is what I used and I think it will be very durable and looks cool too. I can't wait to try it out instead of using my temporary toggle switch. This should be way more convenient. I've got 4 coats on it now and will likely add another one before I go to town in the morning.

I have used it on some cedar benches that have been sitting out now for over 2 years. I think I put about 3 coats on the tops. They still look pretty good in sun and rain and snow, and all. The stuff don't smell too good going on until it is dry, but it works well. The wife can't stand to be within 50 feet of it when I am applying it..

Hilbilly · Mar 4, 2015

IT"S DONE!!!!!!!! and it works too. :cool2:

I tried it out a little and was impressed that it picked up a fairly large rock without any damage. I could tell by the way the tractor reacted to the load that it was quite heavy. I also tried grabbing a small log by the end and quickly discovered that it not as easy as I think it should be. I may need to make some mods if I want to do this very often. There appears to be a need to have something on the lower tines that lines up with the teeth on the lid, otherwise the lid pushes the log down and the butt of the log turns up, ie the log rotates because the grab points are offset from each other. Oh, and I love the new switch location, it makes a world of difference having the switch on the FEL control. I can see how there will be a lot of uses for this. My neighbor seen it and says he is jealous and wants one for his tractor too.

Now what am I going to make?

Scott65 · Mar 4, 2015

Hilbilly said:
IT"S DONE!!!!!!!! and it works too. :cool2:

Now what am I going to make?

I'd say just make more of those for tbn members, ought to sell like hotcakes!

That turned out really nice! Your craftsmanship is fantastic! I agree I think you would appreciate having the tines line up when it's closed. I use mine to grab things like that all the time.

TomSeller · Mar 4, 2015

Very nice. I see you didn't waste any time tackling a boulder. I would caution against picking up a log from the end. Balance is important, not only to your grapple but also to the tractor's stability.

Poopdeck Pappy · Mar 4, 2015

Hilbilly said:
. . . Now what am I going to make?

Make one for your neighbor and charge him enough to recoup some of the costs on yours. Heck, you could have the makings of a cottage industry.

IslandTractor · Mar 4, 2015

Really. Nice job Hilbilly. Congratulations.

Xfaxman · Mar 4, 2015

Gooder-un! :thumbsup:

HCJtractor · Mar 4, 2015

That is really an amazing project! It's really satisfying to see your project from the brainstorming stage to fruition.

It really shows how someone could build these designed for CUTs and sell a bunch. When I bought mine, Markham Welding filled that niche, for under a grand. I think there is a market for these. Hey. Maybe a new career?

You have great skills!!

k0ua · Mar 4, 2015

Yes, you did good. You should be very proud. Heck we all are proud of you.:thumbsup:

Hilbilly · Mar 5, 2015

k0ua said:
Yes, you did good. You should be very proud. Heck we all are proud of you.:thumbsup:

Awwweee geeee thanks.

Seriously though, thanks for the compliments.

It's great to have a new implement but the best part of this has been the journey. I really enjoyed all the new challenges it presented for me and I'm kind of sad it's over.:frown:

But on a positive note, I got some new tools in the process.:cool2:

alancamby · Mar 6, 2015

I just read through the whole thread. Well some of it I skimmed

For the 35 to 50hp tractor range,
what is the recommended tine thickness when using A36. Ends 1/2" and centers 3/8"???

What is the square tube on top and bottom? the tube that runs horizontal above and below the quick attach. Thickness and size.

I understand that the gussets and design is the key. Still need a idea on materials.

Seems like I remember a bunch of value grapples that were, or are, on the market where the top square tube would stress crack after just a few months of use. Seems like some of these were only 1/8" thick square tube.

If the OP could make up a Grocery list, that would be awesome.
Anyone else that could give some material ideas would be great.

Excellent job Hilbilly.

Hilbilly · Mar 6, 2015

If you read the whole thread you know that I am new to welding and fabrication. This is by far the biggest welding and fab project I have ever taken on and I just kind of winged it when it came to bar sizes, thicknesses and grapple dimensions. I am also ignorant about steel grades. I have only used the grapple a few time so far so can't tell you how it will hold up. Having said this I can provide you with what I used to build my grapple for my 47 hp tractor. Given that I am not experienced at this sort of thing you may want to confirm steel sizes and grapple dimensions with someone having more experience. If you use this information you do so at your own risk.

Ok, the cover your ***** part is done. Here is a list of what I used, to the best of my memory. The back cross tubes are made of 3" x 3" x 0.25" HSS tubing. The tines and the vertical members between the back cross tubes are 3" x 3/8" flat bar. The top part of the SSQA bracket is made of 3/8" flat bar. I can't remember the width but you can check your SSQA for that dim. The bottom SSQA bracket is made of 1/4" flat bar as are the side braces. The tine cross tubes are 2" schedule 40 black pipe. All the steel is "mild steel". At least that is what I asked the guy at the steel yard for. The SSQA mounting plates on the back are 1/4" plate. I think that covers all the pieces but if I missed something let me know.

The tines are 32" long and the vertical tines between the the back cross tubes are 16" long. The grapple is 50" wide and the lid is 24" wide. The opening is 43 3/4". The mounts for the hydraulic cylinder are also made from 3/8" x 3" flat bar. The cylinder mount on the back cross tube is 3 pieces of flat bar welded together.

Well that's how I built mine. If it breaks into a bunch of pieces during some real use, I suggest you build yours stronger.:laughing:

Oh, I forgot to say good luck with your build and don't forget to post pics.