With the tubes spliced together we could now put them into the trailer. I know that manufactures were running the tubes to the center of the axles, but I thought I’d extend mine all the way back to the tail. We inserted both tubes at the same time and they went in without any problems. Only needed to lift up the center axle slightly to get them to fit.
Gooseneck trailer repair project
- Thread starter Cord
- Start date
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blacktruck
Gold Member
Quite an ambitious project by any standard. It looks like you are really earning every victory you are getting in the process. Keep us posted please.
Got a few more updates for you guys. With the torque tubes welded in we could now add the torque arms. The goal is to transfer any twisting force from the trailer into the tubes. For the torque arms I used a 10” I beam salvaged from a mobile home. The beams are exceptionally light which is perfect for the application. I started by slicing each beam lengthwise to make it into a T. The T then got notched so it would fit over the tubes. The ends are also notched so the T will fit over the frame angle while providing clearance for the wiring. For as complex as these pieces were, I’m very happy with how they turned out.
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I mentioned in an earlier post about not being satisfied with the Load Trail build quality. What I’ve noticed is that there are several manufacturers vying to be the cheapest trailer out there. I guess they build what sells. Just wanted to let you know what you are buying.
Where the wiring passes through a structural member they torched in a hole and didn’t use a gromit.
The light holes are torched in as well. We popped a few of the lights out and broke one because the fit was so tight.
There appears to be two different weld qualities. The welds on the neck are very neat and professionally done. The welds under the deck were done as quickly as possible. Often there is porosity and the weld has a ropey look it.
if you are wondering about the rust... this trailer is 6 years old.
Where the wiring passes through a structural member they torched in a hole and didn’t use a gromit.
The light holes are torched in as well. We popped a few of the lights out and broke one because the fit was so tight.
There appears to be two different weld qualities. The welds on the neck are very neat and professionally done. The welds under the deck were done as quickly as possible. Often there is porosity and the weld has a ropey look it.
if you are wondering about the rust... this trailer is 6 years old.
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crazyal
Super Member
I think you could have done everything the frame shop did too. I had to straighten a twisted trailer for a friend. What we did was used a couple 16' landscape timbers (8x8 I think). On each end we slid a timber sideways under the trailer with one end flush with the corner that needed to come down and sticking out the other. On the flush end we had a chain wrapped around the frame and timber. On the side the timber stuck out we put blocking on one of them and a 20 ton hydraulic jack. Between the jack and the frame was a piece of steel that stuck out both sides of the jack in line with the timber. As we jack it up the timbers flexed some but the trailer twisted back. When we reached the limit of the jack we blocked it up so we could let the jack down and put blocking under it and jack some more. The frame twisted back much easier than I expected.
blacktruck
Gold Member
I don't think I saw where you mentioned the year the trailer was thrown together or not. Looking at the last pics you posted, the rust and condition makes me think there was little or no preparation for paint or general finish when the trailer was new. I cannot imagine running wires through torched holes in the frame and I sure would never put a product out with welds like those. You're doing well trying to bring it back to life. Shame the OEM didn't do better along with the original owner.
The work you've done is impressive! The torched holes by the manufacturer is shocking to me. At least with modern lighting, it is easier to check details like that on newer trailers by popping out the grommets and lights for inspection. Between the torched holes and the sloppy welds that are hidden, you've definitely exposed their production plan... higher quality only in areas easily seen, and slop work where hidden.
bindian
Super Member
Dang, I weld better than that and I don't weld on stuff that gets on the roadway.
With your skills, you coulda built a new trailer from scratch. Awesome job.
hugs, Brandi
LD1
Epic Contributor
Wow....good work.
How much weight do you figure you are adding to the trailer?
I'm still on the hunt for a very similar trailer. Drop-deck gooseneck 14k....just a little shorter. 24'-26' is what I want.
I thought loadtrail was one of the "better" brands.
They certainly have name recognition. Like gator, iron bull, suretrac, pj, diamond c, etc. But not sure that equates to quality?
Quite a handful of trailers made all over the country that some consider second-tier...and don't letter their names all over them.
Hard to tell what's good and what's not when internet shopping.....but it seems nobody builds any heavier than they have to. That's the issue with trailers... The heavier you build them....the less they can legally haul. The lighter you build them, the more they can haul but might not last.
Seems it's a fine line....but the general "design", size of frame, size and spacing of crossmembers, neck and risers....all pretty much the same.
I guess in my case....looking at trailers, one has to decide if the pretty fit/finish and paint job/pin striping, etc is worth ~20% more than a no-name brand.
The load trails (on the internet) look real nice. But if it's gonna look like that on the underside in 6 years I'd be really disappointed. Makes me wonder if anyone makes a trailer that isn't gonna look like that in 5-10 years?
Anyway....repairs are looking good and I am looking forward to seeing the finished trailer when you are done
How much weight do you figure you are adding to the trailer?
I'm still on the hunt for a very similar trailer. Drop-deck gooseneck 14k....just a little shorter. 24'-26' is what I want.
I thought loadtrail was one of the "better" brands.
They certainly have name recognition. Like gator, iron bull, suretrac, pj, diamond c, etc. But not sure that equates to quality?
Quite a handful of trailers made all over the country that some consider second-tier...and don't letter their names all over them.
Hard to tell what's good and what's not when internet shopping.....but it seems nobody builds any heavier than they have to. That's the issue with trailers... The heavier you build them....the less they can legally haul. The lighter you build them, the more they can haul but might not last.
Seems it's a fine line....but the general "design", size of frame, size and spacing of crossmembers, neck and risers....all pretty much the same.
I guess in my case....looking at trailers, one has to decide if the pretty fit/finish and paint job/pin striping, etc is worth ~20% more than a no-name brand.
The load trails (on the internet) look real nice. But if it's gonna look like that on the underside in 6 years I'd be really disappointed. Makes me wonder if anyone makes a trailer that isn't gonna look like that in 5-10 years?
Anyway....repairs are looking good and I am looking forward to seeing the finished trailer when you are done
fried1765
Super Star Member
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I have never bought a used trailer, and never will.
Costly repair issues on every used trailer I have ever seen.
Rustyiron
Super Member
My hat's off to you Cord.
Good job.
Good job.
Thanks for the compliments guys!
Those torque tubes are heavy. I’d guess a 10’ length weighs 100lb, the tubes are 30’ long and there are two of them. I looked them up and both tubes weigh 720lbs. The torque arms don’t weigh much. I’d guess there is another 300lbs.
Yea, this definitely reduces the load capacity, but having a stable, solid trailer will boost my confidence which is worth more.
I can’t say which brands are better worse than another. I will say that I towed a Gator Made equipment trailer with a tube frame and was impressed with how solid it felt behind the truck. Never realized how flexible my 20’ channel frame 12k trailer was. I’ve been researching dump trailers lately and from what I’m seeing Lamar and Diamond C seem to be on the better end. Sure would like to hear the opinions of others as to which brands are on the low, vs high end.
Those torque tubes are heavy. I’d guess a 10’ length weighs 100lb, the tubes are 30’ long and there are two of them. I looked them up and both tubes weigh 720lbs. The torque arms don’t weigh much. I’d guess there is another 300lbs.
Yea, this definitely reduces the load capacity, but having a stable, solid trailer will boost my confidence which is worth more.
I can’t say which brands are better worse than another. I will say that I towed a Gator Made equipment trailer with a tube frame and was impressed with how solid it felt behind the truck. Never realized how flexible my 20’ channel frame 12k trailer was. I’ve been researching dump trailers lately and from what I’m seeing Lamar and Diamond C seem to be on the better end. Sure would like to hear the opinions of others as to which brands are on the low, vs high end.
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Rustyiron
Super Member
From a few friends and forum's, Diamond trailers seem to be on the top of the "favorite" lists currently.
From what I've seen from my Kaufman 25.5k g/n, there certainly is room for improvement but at what cost.
One thing that does appeal to me about Diamond is there "engineered" (fabricated) main framework, stronger but lighter than simple structural lengths that are basically intended for buildings. There's really nothing wrong with that and frame members can be added to fight torsional loads but all that adds weight.
I have never seen or laid under a Diamond either so this is typical internet advice
From what I've seen from my Kaufman 25.5k g/n, there certainly is room for improvement but at what cost.
One thing that does appeal to me about Diamond is there "engineered" (fabricated) main framework, stronger but lighter than simple structural lengths that are basically intended for buildings. There's really nothing wrong with that and frame members can be added to fight torsional loads but all that adds weight.
I have never seen or laid under a Diamond either so this is typical internet advice
LD1
Epic Contributor
I have a suretrac dump. 7x12. No issues at all. Its tube frame....like 2x6 or something
Nice work, more than I would of had bought into as from experience with fixer up projects. Have a 40' PJ I bought used here and it doesn't dog walk but sure eats tires up on one axle and some on the other axle. New bearings and bushings so I know it's going to need alignment one day. Had a Peterbilt dropped on it 5ft up in the air on the opposite side, it was enough to bust the oil pan on the rig, I think new axles are in order.
Of course, I screwed up the head beam size for some reason I bought a 12” beam when the existing one was a 10”. When I checked the manufactures website they clearly listed a 12” beam. When I compared the image to a heavier trailer I could see a difference in beam sizes. Their website lists the wrong size.
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It’s interesting how so many manufacturers have an identical head design. One thing they all is a 3/16” gusset applied to the underside of the elbow joint. That gusset just happened to align with the bottom flange of the beam. I cut a piece of metal from the old beam and used it to replace the gusset. The portaband saw was indespensible on this project.
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