RNG, I think I'd find a way to store water on my property, even nonpotable water, just for emergencies, and get a small fire pump setup like Northern Tools has. And for sure a generator to run critical systems. The challenge of course is the whole community needs to be fireproofed, not just your house. Blowing embers are not good at all...
Someone needs to start a "fire mitigation" service up there, a specialized landscaping service just for this.
All good ideas, Drew.
There is at least 100' of elevation gain between the house and top of the property, and my thought is to place a pair of 10,000 gallon water tanks, or build a concrete cistern of about that size, up there. It'll get plumbed into the domestic water system, and provide about 40 psi of water pressure even when the pumps aren't running. But in order to do that I need a land survey to ensure I observe the mandated set backs. I looked into that a few years ago and found only one surveyor willing to do the job, at $7.5K, but at this point I think the cost is justified. And since part of that survey will support the construction of a fence, I can force the neighbor to help pay for it. I say force because of my previous (unfortunate) history with him.:thumbdown:
I also had a long conversation with a fireman that is also a forester. I asked him about fireproof shutters, especially for the vinyl clad windows and doors. He didn't seem too concerned because the embers would bounce off both surfaces, and as long as they didn't land on combustible surfaces, the house would be OK. He said most houses burn because embers find a way inside or up under the roof shingles or tiles, and I already know that the tile roof on this place isn't ember tight. So also on the list is a call to one or more roofing companies for advise on addressing that problem.
The added distance created by Calfire's dozer work has gone a long way toward mitigating the ember hazard as well, but it's not completely eliminated. I will be bringing up the ember issue when the remediation folks show up, my reasoning being that if they don't address the downed fuels and instead leave them in place to naturally decay, they are creating and maintaining a hazard on state property. As such, I should be able to hold them liable for any damages caused by that decision.
car place called, warped wheel hub now. And they are replacing the brand new rotor on that side just in case. How does one warp a wheel hub? And these are supposed to be the highest class brakes of them all, Brembo's... this car was babied by a number of old farts; not like anyone took it to Germany and stood on the brakes at 150mph. I'm a very light braker, try to use my brakes as little as possible, so warped brake components seem really odd to me.
Where have you been little kitty where you got so overheated?....
You might want to ask your mechanic if he actually measured the run out using a dial indicator. As you suggest, I find it difficult to believe that the parts are actually warped, especially the new rotor. Far more common for brake deposits or contaminants to build up on the rotor and cause brake pedal pulsing, especially if the brakes only get light use. And I seem to remember a previous post where you indicated that was indeed the case, but the problem was not helped by repeated heavy braking.
I'd also ask them if they cleaned the surfaces of both the rotor and wheel hub where they meet. If not, it would be very easy for the rotor to end up off perpendicular to the axis of rotation, and that's sure to create a problem.
