Good morning!!!!

[RedNeckGeek]

I have only done a few steel posts over the years. When we did, the concrete was already in the hole (most of it , probably 90%). It was a pain, but forced the pipe down into the concrete by wiggling, pounding, and any means to pull it down. They were pretty stable at that point, but would use 4 boards around it angled at the base. Just used duct tape wrapped around the boards and pipe. They were used for gates, so had to be relatively straight and plumb.

Thanks, Ted, I'd thought about doing it that way, but in this case, each pipe is either 10' or 12' long, and would need to be driven into the concrete 5'. But the biggest concern is that the rails being supported require fairly accurate positioning of the posts, both laterally and vertically. I can fudge the vertical by leaving the posts long and "adjusting" them with a power band saw once the concrete sets, but if they're off laterally, the rails won't run straight. So I was hoping to get all six of them set before pouring any concrete, using strings strung between stakes to ensure that they are all in the correct position.

I also gave some thought to an initial pour of concrete to pre-set the height, with a couple pieces of rebar left sticking up to tie them into the rest of the pour. Just not sure how to reach down into that hole 5' to place the rebar.:confused2:

 

[sodamo]

65°F and no rain.

Promised wife I’d look at puncture wound in Craftsman front tire, hopefully fixable.

Need to plan how & where I’m going to approach carport rafter build. They will be 31 feet long. Getting all the parts sorted and organized probably a good place to start.

Prayers for all
Be safe
Have a great day

 

[txdon]

Have any of you put up a fence or other structure using steel for the posts? I'm wondering how I'm going to prop up the posts while positioning them, since I can't nail 2x4s into the steel posts. Maybe use shock cords hooked to nails on the braces?

yes, steel post for garage. I cut about 4" sections of a larger diameter pipe in half and welded a piece 3-5' rebar at angle. I set 3 around each post check and recheck level. Vision a tripod around the post.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Good Morning. It's 68° here this morning and cloudy. Our forecast says 82° this afternoon. But ... a cold front is coming thru tonight, dropping our temps to 48° in the morning then in the 30's Thursday and Friday morning.

With our high winds yesterday I spent most of the day, in the shop, but did get a couple hours seat time dragging around the 3-point chain harrow around leveling old gopher mounds in two of our pastures.

Eric ... portability. 13 HP, 4000 psi, 3.8 gpm pressure washer I bought a few years ago. It wasn't very portable with small tires so ... I bought a 40" x 48" trailer at HF and installed the PW on it. Now I can drag it almost anywhere with the Polaris Ranger.

I'm looking into using for dustless blasting.

View attachment 640081

Roy ... battery tenders ... are your friend.

Don ...battery recip. saws are very handy. I've got a Rigid with 18 volt battery. Glad your making progress with your Fire Wise Group.

BEF ... glad you're getting your DW resolved.

Ron ... I looked at chippers like yours several years ago and decided that tractors, with grapples, make for way less manual labor.

Hope everyone has a great day.

Prayers to all.

Nice job on PW cart

My ranger 2” receiver won’t take a 2” hitch, gets part way in then gets too tight. I will have to shave down a hitch to fit.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Have any of you put up a fence or other structure using steel for the posts? I'm wondering how I'm going to prop up the posts while positioning them, since I can't nail 2x4s into the steel posts. Maybe use shock cords hooked to nails on the braces?

Clamp

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Thanks, Ted, I'd thought about doing it that way, but in this case, each pipe is either 10' or 12' long, and would need to be driven into the concrete 5'. But the biggest concern is that the rails being supported require fairly accurate positioning of the posts, both laterally and vertically. I can fudge the vertical by leaving the posts long and "adjusting" them with a power band saw once the concrete sets, but if they're off laterally, the rails won't run straight. So I was hoping to get all six of them set before pouring any concrete, using strings strung between stakes to ensure that they are all in the correct position.

I also gave some thought to an initial pour of concrete to pre-set the height, with a couple pieces of rebar left sticking up to tie them into the rest of the pour. Just not sure how to reach down into that hole 5' to place the rebar.:confused2:

There was a video on YouTube of a guy building a pole barn. He did the preset measurements, using a builders level to fill the holes with concrete to a certain level. When he went to put all the posts in, only one was off by an 1/8 inch. He then used a string to keep them all straight, just as you described doing.

For the rebar, could you use, say a 6 ft section, and just push it down into the base amount of concrete? That way the posts have support all the way up out of the hole. Use the string method to line them up. Wire or heavy string could be easily anchored from the rebar to the surrounding surface to hold it in place.

Here is a quick sketch:

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

I like Don ‘ s idea also. Might depend on how many posts you want to set in a day.... make up 3-4 tripods ?

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Well, with being exorbitantly tired, the weather sure is not cooperating either.... 28 degrees, still snowing, I am definitely not going out in the shop today.....

Being cold and very tired, does not mix with power tools....

Here is a pic from the window....

 

[sodamo]

Thanks, Ted, I'd thought about doing it that way, but in this case, each pipe is either 10' or 12' long, and would need to be driven into the concrete 5'. But the biggest concern is that the rails being supported require fairly accurate positioning of the posts, both laterally and vertically. I can fudge the vertical by leaving the posts long and "adjusting" them with a power band saw once the concrete sets, but if they're off laterally, the rails won't run straight. So I was hoping to get all six of them set before pouring any concrete, using strings strung between stakes to ensure that they are all in the correct position.

I also gave some thought to an initial pour of concrete to pre-set the height, with a couple pieces of rebar left sticking up to tie them into the rest of the pour. Just not sure how to reach down into that hole 5' to place the rebar.:confused2:

When I did the tractorshed, the 4 inch pipe was required to be 5’ deep in 12” diameter concrete. I was concerned about the vertical height and being plumb. I over dug the holes and placed a couple inches concrete in bottom taking care to get level. Made a round disc at end of 1 inch pvc to tamp. With this as a base, basically just held the pipes in place as I filled around with concrete. A 2 person job as I was constantly checking with laser level and post level.

I wonder in your case, perhaps imbed a triangle of rebar, held in place just above ground with a disc of plywood to maintain correct size and plumb. Insert pipe over rebar then concrete around.

 

[Looking4new]

Depending on what time you get up in the morning (my case it was 3), a mid-morning nap will do the same as a mid-afternoon nap. Supposed to reduce your chances of a heart attack by 50% if you do it twice a week. So using that reasoning I should NEVER have a heart attack because I have a nap every day.