GC2310 4WD selector

[irvingj]

OK, after several years of blissful operations, I have a problem, apparently. My 4WD selector lever has NO tension on it, no "clicky-clicky," nothing; it's just free to swing back & forth with no apparent internal connection, and no apparent change in drivetrain ability or sound. This is with the tractor either moving or stationary. Previously, there was always some small amount of tension as the 4WD lever was engaged, sort of "popping in," coupled with an increased whine in the drivetrain as the 4WD was engaged.

I say "internal," because the rod that's connected to the lever disappears into the transmission area. As far as I can determine, it's now in 4WD, which is OK, as that's what I need when snow blowing, but when I travel to a neighbor's drive, over paved road for about 2 miles, I always put it in 2WD, which worked just fine a week ago.

Before I start digging into manuals, has anyone else experienced this seeming disconnect on the 4WD lever? It sure feels like some sort of pin or perhaps a shift fork(??) has become disconnected.

As always, any help gratefully received.

 

[ray66v]

I think this is a new one.

 

[irvingj]

I was afraid of that, Ray.

Spent the last 3 hrs going over the service manual while repeatedly going out to the tractor to match the manual pics with reality. Really annoying the way they keep moving the transmission around in the photographs, including upside down.

The 4WD control lever is attached to the shaft that goes into the right side of the transmission by a roll pin, and the shaft does rotate when the lever is moved. There's a cap, spring, and ball internally that acts as a detent mechanism, located about 2 inches below where the shaft enters the transmission, but of course that's behind the hydrostatic pedal linkage and mounting plate, so I can't get at it, can't even see it. No detent action at all is discernible, so maybe that's the only problem. (Guess I can hope, right?)

Inside the transmission, there's a gear which slides along the "4WD Output Shaft," but so far I've not been able to locate any drawings or pics of just how that slider gear is moved by the lever & attached shaft. The manual does show a small shift fork, in a similar (?) arrangement for the speed range control, but nothing on the 4WD shaft that I've been able to find so far. By the appearance of that sliding gear in the book, however, it must have a shift fork that moves it (#3 in the manual drawing).

Next step, I guess, is to disconnect the 4WD driveshaft from the 4WD output shaft to determine if it really IS in 4WD or not, and then to see if moving the lever has any effect on it.

 

[ray66v]

You should be able to jack it up, to check if it is in 4wd.

 

[irvingj]

I was thinking of how to jack it up to do that; guess I'd need to use jackstands on one end while using the floor jack to lift up the other. I did see, however, where there's only one bolt that holds the front axle driveshaft on. I was hoping I'd be able to turn the output shaft by hand --or not-- when it was in gear. Don't know of that would work with a hydrostatic tranny, however.

I haven't been able to spin the wheels on the icy spots, and it climbs up the driveway blowing snow just fine, so I think it must be in 4WD now.

Here's a better pic of that 4WD gear; judging by the collar on it, there must be a shift fork in there to move it.

 

[ray66v]

I think you are right.

My guess is a fork moves #3?

 

[irvingj]

I finally found it!

On page 100 of the parts book, there's a drawing of the shift levers for both the 4WD and the 3PH. Attached to their shafts, just inside the transmission front cover (the 4WD shaft is actually IN the front cover), are short levers which apparently bear on the shift collars.

Right now, I'm betting that 4WD lever was tack-welded on and has broken free, since I can see the shaft rotate when the control lever is moved between 2WD and 4WD. Ugh.

 

[ray66v]

That sounds plausible.

So, all you have to do now is, disassemble the entire tractor to get at it?

I guess you will know, if the round shaft comes out, with the lever.

 

[irvingj]

Found more on page 96 of the parts book. Sure enough, that lever is mentioned as a separate part.

Contacted current dealer (about 1.5 hrs away); estimate is 12 hrs, over $1K just for labor. Ouch. I was really thinking I could do it myself, IF the transmission front cover could be removed without separating the transmission, essentially the whole back end of the tractor, form the front end. The front end would include the forward frame section(s) and the engine.

Thought it was possible, until I looked more closely at the pic in the book of the tech removing the front cover; notice that screwdriver on the rear tire? Yep, that photo has been rotated. The rear section is separated, and the whole thing tipped up so he's actually LIFTING the front cover off, not pulling it horizontally.

OK, so what? Well, it seems, according to the service manual, once that front cover is off, all the gears/shafts inside simply lift out of their sockets with their bearings attached, if you need to get at them. What that also means, I think, is if I try to do it with the transmission horizontal (in its normal orientation), some or all of those gears are going to just fall out & drop to the floor, since they're only held in place between the matching bearing sockets cast into the front cover and the transmission housing. Not good. And if that happens, how am I going to get them all back in, and held in correct alignment, while I put the front cover back on? (Ever take a clock apart?)

No, it looks like gravity is definitely needed here to hold things in place, which means the whole tractor has to be disassembled and the transmission rotated so the front cover is UP. Not sure I want to get into it that far, but I'll continue to think about it. Bummer. Guess it all depends on how tightly those gear bearings fit into their sockets, but according to the pics in the manual, they look to be very easy to just lift out.

 

[ray66v]

From what people have said, the rear end comes out without too much trouble.

I would probably pull it out, and drop it off at the shop.

You may be able to save half the labor that way.

I would also contact MF. They may not do anything, but at least you can thank them. :smiley_aafz:

 

[Chooglin]

Any news or update on this issue Irvingj ?

 

[irvingj]

Thanks for the inquiry!

No, just studying and re-studying (!) the service manual, trying to memorize the procedure, to work it out in advance in my head. Still haven't decided if I want to tackle the whole job by myself or not. I'm planning to visit with my "new" dealer in the area (about an hour and a half away; Northwood Power is no more, apparently), who seem amicable to my presenting them with a partially disassembled tractor to minimize labor costs --if I decide to go that route.

The problem is removing the front cover of the transmission: it certainly appears that, in order to prevent gear shafts from dropping out, it really should be tilted upward/vertical. Unfortunately, that means disconnecting & removing the transmission from the frame, quite a bit more involved than I was hoping.

In any event, I won't attempt it until the weather warms up a bit. I do have a heater in my garage, but I'm betting it'll take me several days (I'm wicked slow!) to get the job done, and I can't afford to be without the tractor/blower during snow season, which often lasts until May --sometimes LATE May-- around here. The ol' Rock and a Hard Place thing. :confused3:

 

[ray66v]

I was wondering the same, but figured I would hear from you if you had any news.

How amicable has a lot to do with how much work they have to do.

Come spring, they will all be pretty busy.

 

[Chooglin]

As long as you have a backup mower,I think I would attempt to fix it on my own, once the warmer weather gets hear.

Either way,best of luck to you !

 

[rjmack]

That's too bad, then again you have had pretty good luck with that thing so far.

at least it isn't down during snow season.

maybe you can take the opportunity to do some videos of the repair? I sure have found youtube to be an invaluable resource for getting help with unusual problems.

 

[ray66v]

Yeah, why don't you get it all figured out, so if my pump shears, you can come down here and do it for me?

 

[irvingj]

You guys are killin' me! :laughing:

I'm leaning more & more toward tackling it myself, and yes, I would definitely document the process with photos; I'm not much good on video, and wouldn't know what to do with it after, anyway. Heck, I just learned how to post pics!

No, I don't have a back-up mower; once I got used to the MMM on the 2310, I sold my old push-mower, a Toro with a Suzuki 2-stroke on it. The 2310 with the MMM did a better job, 3X as fast, and used less fuel to boot. Definitely a no-brainer.

And I think the break on the 4WD shift lever is most likely my own fault; I keep reminding myself to NEVER start down a slope that's wet or snow-covered in 2WD, but invariably forget occasionally and jam the lever into 4WD to prevent the inevitable toboggan ride down the slope with no control. (Learned real quick the definition of "pucker factor" on a tractor!)

I do use that lever a lot, in any case: 4WD on the way down or up a slope, then right back into 2WD as soon as I figure I don't need it. Old habit, I guess, having had a 4WD 72 Blazer with a Dana 4-spd (granny gear) for 30+ years. On that beast, you never put it in 4WD unless you were serious and really needed it-- too much wear & tear on the drivetrain (and fuel use!:shocked otherwise.

So Ray, if I do get it figured out --and all the linkages properly adjusted again; that's my biggest worry-- I'd be happy to supervise! :drink: "Work fascinates me-- I could sit and watch it for hours!" :laughing:

Oh, yeah-- STILL using the original battery! You're right, rj-- I have had pretty decent luck with it.

 

[rjmack]

Yeah, why don't you get it all figured out, so if my pump shears, you can come down here and do it for me?

:laughing:

No, I don't have a back-up mower; once I got used to the MMM on the 2310, I sold my old push-mower, a Toro with a Suzuki 2-stroke on it. The 2310 with the MMM did a better job, 3X as fast, and used less fuel to boot. Definitely a no-brainer.

lucky you, this sounds like just the perfect job for that brief window between winter and summer. :thumbsup:

 

[ray66v]

And no, you cannot take mine apart, to see where that part you have left over goes. When you're done. :alert:


1.5 hours to get the hangar doors open, and preflight. Bandage for sore knee, and Ibuprofen for bruised tailbone, from making unintended contact with the icy ramp, trying to move airplane, $10. Eight gallons of 100LL, $47. Flying with dad for an hour, priceless.

 

[irvingj]

Yeah, rj, they call that the fifth season around here-- MUD season! You should see what our dirt road looks like.

OK Ray, I'm jealous! What are you flying these days?

This summer, wife & I are planning a grand tour of the US (by car, unfortunately); we always stop at brother's on the way home in OH-- the last stop before home. Where are you? Brother lives @ Lake Waynoka, a bit SE of Cincinnati. ijk